I've got the bug to build my own back quiver. I've some experience with sheaths, but this is a little more extensive than any leatherwork I've done before. I already ordered a piece of bison, and have checked out different designs.
My biggest question is how to design a strap or strap system that allows for the quiver to be swung under your arm to get through brush, but won't allow the quiver to constantly drop down. I don't want to have to bum the quiver every time I want an arrow.
Any suggestions as to the design, or at stitching techniques, would be well appreciated.
I don't know if it would work, but you might could try putting a D-ring on the body of the quiver a few inches up from the bottom and using a clasp on the strap to take in the excess strap material for a tighter hold on the back. Then to pull it under your body, you could just undo the clasp and roll it down.
Typically high riding back quivers have a fairly fitting strap that keeps it up at the shoulder and quivers with enough strap to pull down by your side have way too much strap to keep it fitted at the top. If you find a good solution, please post it as I'd like to know as well now that youve brought the issue up.
Google back quivers and hit images,you will get more ideas than your mind can process. Or......lay out your design on a piece of poster board until you have what you want.
Good Shooting,
Craig
I will post a pic of mine tomorrow... I can wear it a few different ways.
I made this one with a clasp. Easily loosed for pivoting to get thru brush.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=105514#000000
here ya go ...
http://www.tradgang.com/backquiver/
just built another for the st jude auction ...
(http://www.tradgang.com/rob/quiver/IMGP0378.JPG)
A nice wide strap, where it crosses the shoulder helps....To keep it where ya want it.
Here is one I made last year. It's adjustable by brass buckle for different times of year. I also put a brass D ring on the top to help with wear on the strap. Its a great soft quiver that holds arrows well and very comfortable. If you really need to duck a crawl through some brush you can just tip it back. I made another for a buddy as well and that had two pockets. One was smaller on the top, the other would fit a small to medium water bottle per his request.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p169/DeanTowarnicki/DSC00599.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/DeanTowarnicki/media/DSC00599.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p169/DeanTowarnicki/DSC00604.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/DeanTowarnicki/media/DSC00604.jpg.html)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p169/DeanTowarnicki/DSC00606.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/DeanTowarnicki/media/DSC00606.jpg.html)
I just built a back quiver from Rob D's pattern (above), last June, and have been quite pleased with it. I added a little length and folded over the top and added a 4x6" pocket for stringer, nocking pliers & such. I laid my first set of bottom strap holes on the wrong side of center for R shoulder and had to correct. I do have to regularly bump the bottom of the quiver when drawing my next arrow and have thought about some sort of additional waist strap? Have fun with your Quiver project.
Jonathan, I feel the attachment of the shoulder strap is the most important part of the quiver. Here is a quiver I have used for quite a few years and works well for me. With it you can draw arrows easily but still the arrows lay low enough that they don't catch on limbs and can be swung under your arm. I don't have any problems with it dropping down but I do catch it with my bow arm elbow when I draw an arrow. With this design, it is pretty easy to shoot an arrow every five seconds if needed.
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s64/GordonJabben/800aa462-0fd3-41c9-a05d-8f7d7336ed56_zps36d1f19d.jpg) (http://s149.photobucket.com/user/GordonJabben/media/800aa462-0fd3-41c9-a05d-8f7d7336ed56_zps36d1f19d.jpg.html)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s64/GordonJabben/DSC_0197.jpg) (http://s149.photobucket.com/user/GordonJabben/media/DSC_0197.jpg.html)
Having tried numerous back quiver designs, the Howard Hill design shown in a few of the previous posts remain the one that falls into a perfect arrow access location, and still allows for easy tucking under the opposite arm for passage through brush. IMHO
Has anyone tried making a back quiver designed after the Safari Tuff side quivers?
I've been looking for something like that and can't seem to find one. My thoughts would be for a thick leather wrap around the bottom to support the side opening and let the rest be soft leather. That way you'd have a kind of hybrid design between the Safari Tuff and regular back quiver. I don't know if it'd work or not. Just a thought that rolled through my head.
Something along the lines of this.
(http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae347/Dorado1873/02c88b63-e88d-4669-86ac-b1a1ae458809_zps9f377d2e.jpg)
though i have both, i use a side stalker quiver more than a back quiver because it's easier to get through dense brush with a side quiver, and easier to see/choose which arrow/head you wanna shoot.
i made this one a few years back and it's seen yeoman service for me ... a very viable alternative to the back quiver.
(http://i.imgur.com/TkX7kTn.jpg)
speaking of which, back quivers are "modern" inventions, they weren't used in medieval times when instead large side quivers were the norm for both warfare and hunting.
i recently added a small gfa knife to the stalker ...
(http://i.imgur.com/Zd2f6m1.jpg)