After a conversation over the stiffness of my arrow shaft I shot an arrow bare shaft and there is definitely something wrong going on. I tried a 140 tip and couldn't hit the target at 10 yards and put a 250 on and hit where I was aiming but the nock made a hard left when it hit the target.
My draw weight is 55lb at 28in and the shafts I am shooting are a gold tip 5575 at 30in to stiff?
Thanks Mike
Only way to know, back up to 20yds and shoot bare shaft and fletched shaft. My draw is slightly longer and I shoot 350 spine with 250 at similar bow weight.
http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
I shoot goldtip trads and the heavy hunter both 500 spine with 250 tip front. Gold tip trads 33/55 are cut at 28.5 inches. The heavy hunters are same spine but with the 100 grain insert and 250 grain point cut to 27.5 inches. Both are shot out of a 53lb bow. Fool around have fun and follow the tuning tips on the ACS web page. Another piece of advice is if you think the tuning is close and you are getting random results look at your release hand.
Depends on how the bow shelf is cut. How does the shaft fly? nock right? nock left? I just watch the flight to tell. Also are you right or left handed? If righty, nock left is weak, nock right is stiff.
Buy the look of the ACS page it appears I'm on the stiff side so I'll be buying so lighter spines Monday
Thanks mike
Mike,
You can get weighted inserts for a lot cheaper than new shafts. There is also the weights that screw on the back of the GT factory inserts. Good luck brother. :)
Ben
I don't believe you are too stiff. Try raising you nock point. If shaft bounces off shelf all readings will be erroneous. I shoot 55/75 31" 145 point out of 46# @ 30 bow and they are perfect.
It all boils down to how much weight you want to hang up front. You'd find you could shoot 15/35's with 125 grain tips and still get good flight.
And your form, release, has to be good when bareshafting...Easy to get messed up arrow flight if you pluck the string..
I'd think your arrow shafts would be right in the ball park..
Be more concerned with where they are hitting than nock orientation. bare shafts are way too sensitive to release/form issues and target material to make the angle of the shaft meaningful IMO. When you get them right they will hit right where you are aiming regardless of nock orientation, then the fletching will straighten them out.
If you are jumping 110grs in arrow point weight and showing nock left(RH shooter). I would say some where in between that 110gr gap is the point weight for good bare shafting results.
QuoteOriginally posted by overbo:
If you are jumping 110grs in arrow point weight and showing nock left(RH shooter). I would say some where in between that 110gr gap is the point weight for good bare shafting results.
So maybe 200gr instead of 250s?
QuoteOriginally posted by mahantango:
Be more concerned with where they are hitting than nock orientation. bare shafts are way too sensitive to release/form issues and target material to make the angle of the shaft meaningful IMO. When you get them right they will hit right where you are aiming regardless of nock orientation, then the fletching will straighten them out.
X2
It would be a lot more affordable to try a 200gr or 175gr field point than buying arrow shafts.
Been shooting this morning and just for fun I put some 100gr stingers on a few shafts and shot them they flew like a dart maybe it was my release hand screwing up the works but tried a 150 and it shot perfect also I like everyones advice and I love learning more about shooting a simple stick and string
Thanks Mike
A shooting machine will shoot the most out of spine shafts in to the same hole over and over. Don't put all your eggs in one basket by only paying attention to arrow impact.
I prefer to watch the arrow in flight and this will eliminate target material issues.
Once my arrows are fletched, I test them by shooting broadheads. If they shoot where you look, you are done.
BIgJIm