Since I am just starting with this whole traditional gear thing I'm shooting a 55lb bear super Kodiak a 30in 5575 gold tip traditional 140 grain tip just wondering if anyone could toss some broadhead suggestions my way.
Thanks Mike
Sure....what are you planning on shooting?...sometimes different animals can require different heads.
Mainly whitetails maybe a turkey
Ok...what's your draw length?
You could most likely shoot your choice....4, 3 or 2 blade. Lots of options out there with that draw weight if you have a normal draw length.
28in draw and maybe I should mention maybe screw in types
Vpa, woodsman, magnus stingers 2&4 blade, Simmons sharks. Just about any sharp,,key sharp...head will do as long as u do your part
Ok thank you kindly
Mike
Welcome to the Gang! :wavey:
140 grains is kinda tricky to find in a screw in.
Tusker makes a javelin in 150 grains..
here's a good place to find them..
http://www.braveheartarchery.us/tusker_broadheads.htm
Vpa makes a 150 3 blade..it's a little shorter than I like though..
http://www.vparchery.com/vpa_3_blade_broadheads.php
Zwickey makes a screwin eskalite..135 grain.
You most likely won't notice a 10 grain heavier head.
I think your closest match would be a Magnus Classic 140 Grain 2-Blade Screw-In.
http://www.pinehollowlongbows.com/Magnus_Classic_B-Heads.html
Looks like maybe the magnus stinger 150 thanks for the replies everyone now to figure out what kind of quiver
Mike
Welcome...you are receiving most qualified guidance
Welcome Mike! :wavey:
Mike....
are you sure your arrows are flying straight?
Seems to me your arrows would be pretty stiff with those specs.
There's almost nothing worse than fighting with poorly tuned arrows when you're just starting.
How are you measuring your draw length?
For trad bows we measure the distance from the deepest part of the grip to the string.
Just asking because a 30" shaft with a 28" draw doesn't leave much if any space between your shelf and the back of the broadhead....keep your finger outta the way! :scared:
....only trying to understand so as to better help you along.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
The fella measured my draw at the traditional shop where I bought the bow before he cut my shafts he said 28 was my draw and he had to cut them at no less than 29 so I asked him to make them 30 so I knew they where long enough the arrows seem to be flying good and hitting the target straight I appears the shaft is about 2.5-3in past the grip hopefully that's enough
ok...
Your guy was using the AMO standard.
That standard is to measure your actual draw length (DL) which is from the deepest part of the grip to the string..THEN ADD 1 3/4".
not sure why amo does this..I think it's to help in arrow length so the b-head doesn't hit the shelf.
I really don't like that standard...really confuses many new guys..my self included.
You can understand why with a true 28" draw a "no less than 29" arrow just wouldn't clear the riser with a b-head.
Sounds like your actual draw might be about 26.25" (28-1.75=26.25)
Around here, talking actual draw is the norm. don't know why..but it is..lol
Again..I'm very surprised those arrows are flying straight for you.
They should be way stiff.
I'd do a search on paper tuning. ...Basically shoot through some thin paper like news paper from about 5 foot away. Look at the tears. If you're getting "bullet holes" with an "x" from the fletching you're good!
If the paper tears in one direction or the other tuning should be done.
..doesn't need to be a fancy setup for the paper buddy..
I just put a 2x4 between a couple stools. Staple the paper to it. And put a couple squeeze clamps on the bottom of the paper to hold it down.
I'm afraid you'll see some funky groups when you screw in broadheads.
you're total arrow weight must be around 455grains with the 140 point. If your bow is 55# at 28", you're probably holding about 51#. That gives you around 8.92 grains per pound. (455/51)
The norm is around 10-11gpp. Shooting lighter can add quite a bit of vibration and isn't the best for a bow. You not super light though. I'll bet if you went to big Jim's site and bought some 200-250+ grain tips you'd be happily surprised at the difference. That would get you to about 515-565 grains or 10-11 gpp.
http://www.shop.bigjimsbowcompany.com/Standard-Field-Points-Dz-BP702.htm
If you're happy COOL! I might be way off here bud.
just trying to point ya in the right direction.
HAVE FUN!!!! :thumbsup:
Zradix, AMO does it that way to take into account differences in the thickness of the first at the grip. A hefty recurve riser versus a selfbow for example. It's a bit more accurate than measuring from the back of the arrow shelf. But most bows are very close to the standard when just simply measured from the back of the shelf and for simplicity many guys just do it that way. Not more than 1/4" difference either way on most bows and that small amount just doesn't make much difference.
Having 2-3 inches hanging of the front doesn't hurt a thing, but really doesn't need to be that much to shoot broadheads. My arrows are cut 1.5" longer than the front of my shelf.
Bear mike, I agree that based on the numbers you've given us it would seem like your arrows would be stiff. If you have 2.5 - 3" of what hanging off the front then your draw is closer to 27 - 27.5". I shoot the same shafts cut to 30.5" with a 29" draw @ 55#. But I have 275 grains of weight up front.
I wouldn't cut your arrows any shorter - that would make them even stiffer. But I would think a much heavier point might work even better for you. Combined with weighted inserts and adapters you would have a wide range of different broadheads to choose from.
Thanks Whip.
I agree with everything you've said.
QuoteOriginally posted by Zradix:
ok...
Your guy was using the AMO standard.
That standard is to measure your actual draw length (DL) which is from the deepest part of the grip to the string..THEN ADD 1 3/4".
not sure why amo does this..I think it's to help in arrow length so the b-head doesn't hit the shelf.
I really don't like that standard...really confuses many new guys..my self included.
You can understand why with a true 28" draw a "no less than 29" arrow just wouldn't clear the riser with a b-head.
Sounds like your actual draw might be about 26.25" (28-1.75=26.25)
Around here, talking actual draw is the norm. don't know why..but it is..lol
Again..I'm very surprised those arrows are flying straight for you.
They should be way stiff.
I'd do a search on paper tuning. ...Basically shoot through some thin paper like news paper from about 5 foot away. Look at the tears. If you're getting "bullet holes" with an "x" from the fletching you're good!
If the paper tears in one direction or the other tuning should be done.
..doesn't need to be a fancy setup for the paper buddy..
I just put a 2x4 between a couple stools. Staple the paper to it. And put a couple squeeze clamps on the bottom of the paper to hold it down.
I'm afraid you'll see some funky groups when you screw in broadheads.
you're total arrow weight must be around 455grains with the 140 point. If your bow is 55# at 28", you're probably holding about 51#. That gives you around 8.92 grains per pound. (455/51)
The norm is around 10-11gpp. Shooting lighter can add quite a bit of vibration and isn't the best for a bow. You not super light though. I'll bet if you went to big Jim's site and bought some 200-250+ grain tips you'd be happily surprised at the difference. That would get you to about 515-565 grains or 10-11 gpp.
http://www.shop.bigjimsbowcompany.com/Standard-Field-Points-Dz-BP702.htm
If you're happy COOL! I might be way off here bud.
just trying to point ya in the right direction.
HAVE FUN!!!! :thumbsup:
I am very thankful I ran across a website where there are so many people who knows how these bows work I'm green in all this I am greatful to everyone that's posting suggestions its great please keep them coming I'm learning more with everyone.
Thanks Mike
:campfire:
What kind of broadhead would I find that's 250 and where can I find them?
VPA archery
for 2 blades...
http://www.vparchery.com/vpa_penetrator.php
for 3 blades...
http://www.vparchery.com/vpa_3_blade_broadheads.php
They are out there..
...but don't get ahead of yourself...get your setup tuned in first..hate to see ya waste $$$ on the wrong weight.
Spend some time in the shooter's forum here.
I know it's fun to "fling" arrows...but this will become much more fulfilling if you can get your form down early. Make good habits now..rather than have to work hard to break them later..
It'll take a little work..but the reward is worth it bud.
When that arrow flies straight to where you're looking time and time again..like an extension of your thoughts..you'll have a pretty cool sense of pride.
buy 75 grain steel adapters and 175gr glue on BH
Bear mike, do you know if they put the standard adapters in your arrows or the heavy brass ones. Easiest way to get an idea is if the inserts that you can see from your gold tips are either silver (standard aluminum) or brass colored (heavy brass inserts). If they put the brass inserts in there that could make up some of the difference why guys think you have a really stiff shaft, when your arrows are flying fine.
They'd be standard inserts
Well went and picked up some 250 field points and shot them can't really tell the difference other than the bow is a little quieter the next dozen arrows I pick up we are going to bare shaft tune whatever that means
Thanks Mike
Bare shaft tuning will save you soooo many headaches in the future.
Just have fun Mike!
sorry if I got all techie on ya.
It's really fun doing this...really pretty simple too.
Enjoy the journey!
Its a blast and I don't mind learning new things and trying different stuff to make a set up even better no need to be sorry Zradix I like the help if you lived closer I'd like to talk more and learn more
Thanks Mike
If you're ever up this way, stop by.
Monday I'm back to the shop and get some 150 magnus stingers and a few 100 grain adapters and see what we got its better finding out what works and what don't now verses later
:thumbsup: