I am new to trad archery, and have been shooting a 1974 Shakesspeare Wambaw for a month and a half now. I've also been shooting a Jerry Hill wildcatII, that I picked up for short money to experience the long bow. The Wambaw is 45#, the JH is 50#. I gave up archery while going to college years ago, and in 2003 under went surgery on my drawing arm shoulder for 60% torn librum, 40% torn rotator cuff, 50%torn bicep tendon, and bone spur.
Good news is that shooting the bows bothers it less and less now. I have been getting improved accuracy with shooting the Wambaw out to 20yds, and can almost maintain consistent 12" 30 yd groups, actually 18-20" with that occasional "flyer" out of a seven shot string.
My JH is more of a challenge to shoot, bow cant plays more of a role in windage. I like shooting it, it hits with authority, but is slower than the Wambaw.
My question is, is it detrimental to be shooting two different bows? The JH has a stiffer draw, I'm not as good with it, however, every shot string I'll have 2 arrows touching. Either it has some accuracy potential, or It's a consistent mistake. When my groups open up from fatigue, I pick up the Wambaw which is easier/smoother to draw, confidence boosting, and prolongs my arrow sailing fun.
What is the trad community's thoughts on shooting 2 different bows?
Thanks.
I like shooting lots of different bows but when it comes time to go hunting I pick one and do all my shooting with that bow/arrow combo for at least a week before the hunt.
Form is everything. If your form is consistent, you can mess with many bows as long as you are aware of the differences. If you are starting out or have poor form to begin with, changing bows will only frustrate you.
When I first started, I had one bow a Bear Montana. I felt like learning how to shoot one bow was challenging enough for me at that time.
Now days I have a few bows, I try to shoot the same grain per pound arrows. By doing that most of my bows shoot very similar. When hunting season rolls around I am a one bow man.
During 3D season I have been known to shoot up to three different classes at some of the big two day shoots.
I personally believe we would all be better shots if we only had one bow and stuck to shooting it exclusively. :)
Yornac x 2
I am most consistent when I stick with one bow. Trouble is, life's too short to only shoot one bow... :archer2:
I hunt with 4 different bows. 1 longbow and 3 recurves. Don't find any problems in switching back and forth or going RH to LH. It takes time and getting used to each bow. The more you shoot both bows, the more comfortable you will become.
I enjoy shooting different bows. Most of mine are all within 5-7# of each other, so no major adjustments needed. Usually get the "feel" of a different one with only a few arrows.
to all, thanks 4 your input
If poundage and grip is similar shouldn't be a problem. Especially the grip part. Have fun!
Shooting many bows will never hurt you. I use several different bows for different game and hunting conditions, NFAA field, and 3-D work myself. I feel it makes you more of a complete archer.
How will you know what type of bow you will like the most unless you try some different ones? I tried a D style longbow and hated it. Later I tried a R/D with near recurve grip and center shot and really am liking it.
I've wrestled with this question so long I gave up trying to answer it.It seems logical if you only shot one bow you would eventually be a better shot for it, but I think it depends on the person and what you expect.
I can hunt with different bows, and do. I very rarely shoot over 20 yards at an animal, and most of my bows shoot similar enough at close range to not notice.
The problem for me is 3d. I switch up at shoots sometimes, and I do think it hurts some because of trajectory differences. But it sure is fun!
If I go out with a different bow than the one I plan on hunting with that year I stick to close shots with it unless it shoots at the same speed as my hunting bow. I just put together a form bow with a clicker and tuned it to the same speed as my hunting bow. It's an ILF so that's possible to do. I plan on alternating shooting it and the bow I am hunting with this year. Will see how it goes. I figure at 20yds and under I'm not going to mess up my shooting my hunting bow as at that range they all hit about the same spot no matter what the speed, at least with the bows I own.
QuoteOriginally posted by YORNOC:
Form is everything. If your form is consistent, you can mess with many bows as long as you are aware of the differences. If you are starting out or have poor form to begin with, changing bows will only frustrate you.
+ 3
I shoot two caribow long bows that are within 4 pounds of draw weight, the only other difference (besides the types of woods) is that one grip and riser is a little thicker than the other (therefore making that bow slightly heavier mass wise too).
I shoot a different set of arrows with each one but the arrow grain weight per pound of bow weight is the same.
They both shoot at the same place, but before a hunt, just to be sure, I shoot one more and bring the other as a spare.
I have other bows, and usually it only takes me a few shots with a bow I haven't used in a while to "get in the flow".
I think it is good to have lighter bow to start out with after a lay off of more than a month. However, my lighter bow is a recurve that requires a straighter stiffer form. Once I switch to the longbow, the recurve is done for the year. Straight grip longbows require some adjustments in form, if you want to shoot one for hunting, acknowledge what adjustments you made and stick with it. I personally find that sticking with the form advocated by John Schulz in his 'Hitting em Like Howard Hill' film, available in four parts on YouTube, to be not only more beneficial for hunting, but also easier on the shoulders.
Just my thoughts but if you shoot and are proficient with two bows you'll always have a back up close at hand and won't have to miss a hunt, day at the range or a practice session in the yard due to an issue. These are simple pieces of equipment that we use but even a small failure can be catastrophic. When it's a stick and a string if either one breaks the other one is useless.
Some bows I can pick up and shoot well, others not so much. I tend to keep the ones I shoot well for a while and get to know them more. The others usually get sold or traded off.
I know the issue is usually the bow not being tuned to the arrows I have and not the bow, but they still go down the road.
I like to shoot a variety of bows. I have six different models/manufacturers that all shoot pretty much to the same spot I focus on out to 25 yards. That's kind of what has determined that they stay strung and on the "keeper" rack. I also spend time adjusting them as I can so that they shoot similarly.
Still, four months before deer season I pick one and stick with it throughout the season.
don't knock the cowboy with only one gun.......he knows how to use it!