Ok so I have been shooting the same arrow setup for 2.5 years out of my 52 pound tall tines 28" draw Easton axis 400 cut right at 30" 250 up front when I bare shafted way back everything was flying perfect the other day just for heck of it I shot the bare shaft and it's showing really stiff nothing on the bow has changed brace height specs etc so I started messing and now my bow to tune like it did before is taking a 30.25 axis 500 with 250 up front to bare shaft correctly but with fletchings and broad heads both arrow spines fly like darts and through paper the .400 spine tears perfectly could anyone explain what's going on How the 400 could be tailing 5" right on impact as a bare shaft but shoot a perfect bullet hole I have checked everything. And I know some say if broad heads shoot good who cares but this drives me crazy the only reasoning a friend mentioned that I have never heard of is the cold weather compared to when I tuned in the summer
I would say, something has changed w/ your shooting form from the last time you bare shaft tuned. Cold to hot weather sounds good in theory but shooter's era or change in brace would be more likely, IMO.
I agree with what overbo says its gotta be in your release also check nock point and brace height but doubt all of a sudden that you would encounter erratic arrow flight when it was fine before that arrow setup sounds perfect...GOODLUCK!
Also, did you change glove / tab ? I just found that when shooting a tab my arrows tend toward high right and with a glove they go low left. Not a LOT different but distinct groups for certain. That threw me off for a while as I had not switched midstream, but did switch every so often.
ChuckC
Nock point is exact same 5/8" nock 7 1/4 brace height silencers same size same exact spot glove is the same anchor is the same, I am a pretty good consistent shot and this has got me dumbfounded, but like I said I can grab a broadhead and a fletched arrow and either one flies right where I want it to it just doesn't make any sense to me on how that bare shaft could have change I mean I could maybe see form causing a tiny bit showing stiff but I mean 5-6" tail right is ridiculous.
Have you changed your arrow rest strike plate string type of nock anything wow thats tough to write all in one sentence.
Believe it or not your release can have that much of an influence on bare shaft tuning. That's why I just broadhead tune any more. I would say screw on the largest surface area broadhead you have for 250 grains and see how both the 400 and 500 spine shafts fly. One will fly true and hit the mark and most likely the other will not.
QuoteOriginally posted by bkbk12:
but like I said I can grab a broadhead and a fletched arrow and either one flies right where I want it to it just doesn't make any sense to me
I believe you are over thinking it. Your fletched shaft and broadhead fly right where you want, and your trying to improve that. Why? Too many people can hardly achieve this, and your already there.
You hunt with a fletched shaft and broadhead and not with a bare shaft, so why would you want to change what is already working. Sometimes, things just happen that defy logic. I've learned to just go with it and not overthink things (too often).
Strike plate and rest are the same, and mike I know what you mean but I am a finicky person and that kind of stuff drives me crazy I have in my head that the arrow shaft should fly a lot better than that. Also James both arrows finished weight are within 30 grains and at 25 yards I can hit a softball consistently with both, I am OCD when it comes to this LOL
"You hunt with a fletched shaft and broadhead and not with a bare shaft, so why would you want to change what is already working. Sometimes, things just happen that defy logic. I've learned to just go with it and not overthink things (too often)."
Well said Mr Vines
bkbk12,
Think about this! IF 2 years ago you had it all "tuned up," and now 2 years later that "tune" isn't working anymore -- WHAT COULD HAVE HAPPENED???
One of two things IMO. Either 2 years ago, you didn't have the tune you thought you did OR and more likely ---
SOMETHING in your shot execution has changed!! Your arrows didn't change, your bow didn't change and IF the bow is still set up with brace height & nocking point, your earlier tune didn't change.
The MOST changeable part of the shot is US!!! And over 2 years, we can change a LOT! Some folks carry a bare shaft just to check their own form every once in a while (every couple weeks -- not every couple years).
It is REALLY easy for SOME change to creep unnoticed into our shot execution and over a short time we THINK we are doing it the same but are not.
Video yourself and compare it to the video you did two years ago ( you do have one - right?). We often discover things in our shot that we don't "feel" or "think" we are doing. My money is bet on the form changes, not the change in "tune." Sometimes (often) things that "defy logic" do so only because we are looking at the wrong thing for answers/solutions.
Arne
Figured the problem, I grabbed my old string and it shot perfect so now I was really mad because I have the same strings etc, so I got to looking and found the problem my bow hush that you wrap around the string was about 1-1.5" longer on each end than my old string I shortened them up and shot they flew perfect again I knew something stupid was up but never or would have even thought that could changed the spine that much
I experienced this also just within the last 6mnths after not checking a bareshaft for a while. I think that I started getting a better release (or maybe worse but I would like to think better) and had to retune my arrows a bit. Really though, I think it just got in my head more than anything.
I have adopted the motto, "everything is psych until proven otherwise."
Brian,
I suspect Arne's on the right track. I shoot 3U and found out quite by accident that I had imperceptibly moved my middle fingertip anchor from corner of my mouth to right against my incisor, just because it seemed more solid and repeatable. I'd guess this amounted to no more than 1/8th inch actual horizontal movement in my anchor, probably more like 1/16th. It had so little effect on POI with fletched shafts that I never noticed it and probably was compensating the sight picture within a few shots. The next time I bareshafted, which was probably months later, everything had "gone down the crapper" and it took forever for me to figure out what I'd changed. Also, don't know about the cold weather theory otherwise, but personally, my draw length will change noticeably from the dead of winter(greatly reduced practice, loss of muscle memory/back engagement) to summer (frequent practice/full back muscle expansion, but I'm aware of it and usually can counter with tip weight.
Brian, I have had tuning problems every time I switched strings of another type. Sounds like u figured it out. Also if u change to different silencers it will change arrow flight.. I try and keep everything the same but every time I change strings I always test things to see if any thing changed.
You said this is the same bow you've had for 2.5 years?.... Did you check the weight of your bow recently?
Typically these fiberglass bows don't have string follow,and are pretty darn good with keeping their poundage.... but i've seen bows loose as much as 4-5 pounds over the years. Leaving them strung for long periods in really warm weather could do it....
Oh.... btw... when you are bare shafting, just pull the string back a little further and it will be fine. :p
I believe you are over thinking it. Your fletched shaft and broadhead fly right where you want, and your trying to improve that. Why? Too many people can hardly achieve this, and your already there.
You hunt with a fletched shaft and broadhead and not with a bare shaft, so why would you want to change what is already working. Sometimes, things just happen that defy logic. I've learned to just go with it and not overthink things (too often).
3X on this statement....