I have some GT Trad 3555s I've been playing with. My draw is 26.5" and my longbow is 52@28". So I'm drawing about 47 to 48 lbs. I'm using 50 gr inserts and 175 gr points and they seem to bare shaft weak so I've been trimming them 1/4" at a time. At 28 3/4" they seem a tad weak but at 28 1/2" they shoot pretty stiff. My question is at what point is an arrow cut too short where it doesn't flex correctly or is there even such a thing? Thanks, Jeff
Jeff I shoot 35/55 xt hunters cut at 27" (26" draw). I use a 100 grain insert with a 150 head out of my 45# longbow.
Carbons sometimes can give you a false reading,especially on bows cut off center.When I bareshaft tune my carbon arrows I like them a tad on the weak side.The fletching will help stiffen them when fletched.I'll will cut as little as 1/8" when I get close.They can really stiffen up the closer you get the point to the riser.Try raising your brace height a tad and see if that will help.
It is only to short if it's either to stiff for your set-up or broadhead hits back of bow hand at full draw which could pull nock of string a cause a dry fire, not good. I like to bare shaft tune a tad weak(1-2"@25yds) then fine tune with broadhead and field points. Most carbons get real sensitive to length changes when you are close.
I typically like to bare shaft a little on the weak side myself. I've got them set up and flying perfect now. I just thought it was strange that 1/4" made such a huge difference!
I feel your pain. Sounds like some of the same struggles I've been through. My setup is very similar. Things got better when I switched to 1535's.
I shoot gt traditional 1535 and my draw is 24 3/4" and my arrows are cut and tuned at 25 5/8".
So far as paradox...Carbons recover faster than aluminum, and aluminum recover faster than woods. For forgiveness, I would rank woods best, followed by aluminum, and then carbon. I can shoot a .400 GoldTip with both a 125 and a 145 grain tip. Arrow shaft is full length. Stu Miller's formula indicates that the 145 grain tip is correct but I can't tell any difference at 20 yards.
I am new to carbons with a recurve but my limited experience points to carbons being more critical of form and release. I am shooting them now simply because I have not found a correct wood arrow spine yet. Also a lot easier to remove from compressed layer backstops.
shed hunter what is your front weight total?
200gr plus standard insert. I'm shooting Dryad Orion acs rc limbs. 51@28. broadhead and bare shaft tuned perfectly.
Im gonna try 3555 with 250 up on my next setup.
I have been using gt 35/55 full length well 30" I only draw 27.5-28. The tad long is no bother as I don't gap shoot. The tune almost perfect from ten to twenty yards with the few 45lb past center cut ff string bows and others ive tried. The only bow a bit stiff is a 40lb wing w b50 string. The old owner of sipsey river told me it was a good flexible way to start shooting carbons. It has proven fool proof. And my magnus have flown great to most game if im doing my part. Just a thought. And I have bare shafted, fletching stripped all the bows I shoot I cant left or right just the nock high at any distance.
Missed a few words above. I can't see nock left or right just high. And no extra weight up front just 125g heads. 430g total about 10g a pound.
:readit: if using 175s try 150-125-100 lighter should = stiffer and saves cutting to far.
If you want you could foot 3555 with 2117 and that could stiffen them(I use 2 inches )or you could build out your strike plate (thicker Velcro or place a match stick behind it) also adjust/lower your brace height( less for weak)
:banghead: if that doesn't help you might be hitting the riser getting a false weak when you need to get a heaver point or insert.
They shot great with a standard insert and 175s but my arrows were only 470 grains and I really want them over 500. I'm trying to get them to shoot well with the 50 grain insert and 175 point so that's why I've been trimming and experimenting. The 28 1/2" and 28 3/4" bare shaft the best but 29" and 28 7/8" shoot the best fletched.
Easier to tune the bow for me I shoot low to mid fifties longbows I start out full length and end up cutting very little off shaft my draw is 29" my arrows end up over 30" I play with brace and side plate to tune carbons that way I can shoot the same arrows out of multiple bows different strokes I guess.
When is a carbon arrow too short?
This is just my opinion but if you come to your anchor point and the tip of the arrow falls off the back of your shelf or rest, it's a pretty good indication that your arrow is too short.
Same is true for aluminum and wood.
;)
In order to reach an arrow weight of over 500 grains you might be better off to go to a heavier arrow shafts such as GoldTip Kinetics or Easton Full Metal Jackets. A heavy f.o.c. is great but it can be too much.
QuoteOriginally posted by Feather Flinger:
They shot great with a standard insert and 175s but my arrows were only 470 grains and I really want them over 500. I'm trying to get them to shoot well with the 50 grain insert and 175 point so that's why I've been trimming and experimenting. The 28 1/2" and 28 3/4" bare shaft the best but 29" and 28 7/8" shoot the best fletched.
you might be getting a false reading. your longest arrow (weakest) with fletching(even more weak) shoots best.....
Blaino, I find find adding weight to the rear of an arrow, fletching, stiffens dynamic spine.
Feather, something else going on like Blaino suggests, try bare with 100gr and 250gr and compare results, that will let you know whats going on.
You're right Katman. I said that backwards.
That's what I thought Blaino.
Thinking about his set-up bet he gets some feather contact with the shorter/stiffer arrow.
For me too short is 1" more than my actual draw length. I draw 50@30 on most of my bows and can tune a 31" Gold Tip 3555 or 5575, 9.5 grains per pound depending on point and insert weight, to bare shaft perfectly.
:archer2:
I'm thinking I'm gonna just leave well enough alone and just stick with 29". They shoot pretty good with the 50 grain inserts and 175s but they shoot perfect with the standard inserts and 175s. It seems trimming only makes things worse. I may go back to the CE Heritages for a little more weight. Thanks for the input. Jeff