Guys, I'm new at this, but I saw a post asking if Pronghorn bows were cut to center. The consensus was they were not. I just purchased my first longbow...a pronghorn, from the TG classifieds; it shoots great.
Anyway, I'm wondering what "cut to center" really means, and whether it's always a good thing? I'm guessing if it were a necessity, Herb would be making them that way. Or is there something I'm missing. Just trying to understand!
Thanks,
Shuter
Kinda self explanatory. Shelf is cut to center of bow. Not a necessity at all, lots of bows aren't, lots are. Some are past center.
Okay, granted; it's "self-eplanatory". What I'm really asking is the rest of my post:
Is it always a good thing; why are some cut that way and some not? What are the theories and arguments for one vs. other methods?
Thanks
Ok ok . I'm sure there are all kinds of argument, opinions etc. Try the search function up top. Search function is great.
If you compare shots with a bow that is cut past center to a bow like a Hill, some amazing things show up if you acknowledge the position of the arrow. If I roll my Grooves over, I have a difficult time seeing where the arrow is pointing. With a Hill style rolled way over it is a right online. It is said by some that this happens because the arrow's position in relation to index knuckle. On some longbows, as Dick Robertson stated, it seems like the arrow needs something to fly around.
Most will say arrow tuning will come easier with a cut close to center, center, or past and will allow a larger variety of spine to be used.
Here's how I understand it.If I'm wrong about anything, hopefully someone will come along and correct us both.
If a shelf is cut short of center, it will require a weaker spined arrow, so that it can flex around the bow during paradox.
If it is cut past center, you can get a stiffer arrow to tune well because it doesn't have to flex around the bow to get back in line with the target. Which means that a wider range of stiffness in your arrows will work, because the arrow doesn't have to "get around" the bow.
I think it's more of a preference thing, than a "better" or "worse" thing.
Thanks all. My carbon 400's (one's I had on hand for a 55# recurve) group left in my 43# Pronghorn. I'm having some 500's made up; that might solve the problem, based on what I've read here about my bow needing a weaker spined arrow.
F 77 pretty much sums it up. I have all three, i.e., proud of center, to center and past center. They all work. Just require a little different tuning. As you surmised, your 400s are too stiff for your bow, unless you really load up the font end.
shuter,
Rather than waste a lot money on shafts before you know what you need. I would recommend getting a test kit of shafts or sometimes guys here on Trad Gang have shafts that you can try.
Do you have any other Trad shooters in you area? They might have some differant spine shafts you can try, before buying.
I have had the best luck with bare shaft tuning. By cutting the shaft shorter and/or adding/deleting point weight to change the spine. When you can get them shooting straight without any fletchings, you know they are tuned right!
Thanks again guys. Lots of good info