I have been shooting gold tip 3555's with my 48 and 52 # recurves. I wanted more penetration so I went up to gold tip 5575's with 125 grain tip and added 50 grains to the insert. Now my arrow weight is where I want it but my arrow flight is horrible. Any ideas of what to do o fix this?
Add more tip weight
YUP.. what PD said
I will try more tip weight. Thanks guys!
You'll probably have to drop back to the lighter spined arrows to. 55/75 aren't going to fly right from a 52# bow.
I shoot GT5575 with 225 up front and it bareshafts perfect, (51 lb bow) guess it depends on your bow and draw length. I have no interest shooting an 8 grain per lb arrow or less.
Unless you add a minimum of 260 grains up front, those 55/75 are way too stiff.
I just made up some 32" 5575's for my 46# longbow and #50# recurve. I have 61 grains (11 gr insert + 50 gr insert weight) and a 225 gr field point. They fly great, but do tend to shoot low. Takes a few arrows to re-calibrate my brain. I bare-shafted them and they were just a smidge weak. added some 5 1/2" feathers and dead on.
Oh, they also have a 1 1/2" 2117 footing, epoxied on, but it weighs so little compared to all the rest of the up-front weight, I don't think that made too much difference.
I shoot a 50 @ 28 Big Jim Thunder child. My draw is 27.50 With a SBD 8 strand string. My arrows are 5575 cut 29 inches, standard inserts, 300 gr point, 3-5 inch feathers. I get great flight with these arrows. They are heavy and drop a lot after 25 yards, but I don't shoot over 25 yards.
I shoot 5575 off of everything #48 on up. Never been able to get a. 500 to tune.
Not enough information provided for me to offer some possible worthwhile guidance. There are many...many variables.
One of my set-ups shooting approximately 48#s at 27 3/4"s, shoots GT5575...29.5"s...225 gn tip quite nicely.
If you cut your shafts, sell them to a friend. Even with a cut past center bow, you are not likely to get those to fly well out of a 48-52 lb bow at anything less than full length and 200++ grains up front. This may change if your draw length is over 28.5"
Bigjim
If you cut your shafts, sell them to a friend. Even with a cut past center bow, you are not likely to get those to fly well out of a 48-52 lb bow at anything less than full length and 200++ grains up front. This may change if your draw length is over 28.5"
Bigjim
You need to get to around 250 grains (or maybe more depending on DL) up front. You will also probably have to leave them full length, or very close to it, but they will tune out correctly for a 50# bow if you get the right combination.
Like Jim said, if you cut them, you will likely never get them to work.
Bisch
Oops! Double post.
Bisch
Matt,
My opinion on this is following what these guys are saying as far as weight up front. I am shooting the same arrows I got them from Big Jim. I use to shoot a 125 grn tip with a 50 grn brass insert. I left them, and am shooting full them length with a 200 grn tip with the 50 grn insert and the arrows are now hitting where I want them to. I got a spine weight kit (tips) from Big Jim and test tested until I got it right.
It was "foreign" to my way of thinking about tip/arrow weight...coming from wheeled bows. I have found that heavy is better, and mining for info here saves a lot of time and $$$.
My .02, FWIW
This isn't meant to add to your confusion, just to show what is possible. My recurve weighs 53@28, I draw about 28 1/4". I shoot a 30" 300 spined arrow with 350grs up front, 11grs per pound, 30% foc. My bare shafts fly like bullets out to 30 yards. I haven't tested them at farther ranges yet but I don't see why they wouldn't still fly like bullets. It's truly a beautiful thing.
SOOO many variables to arrow tuning with carbons.
I tried for extreme foc arrows in the past. I have shot 75-95 with over 400 grains up front to get them to tune. Dang they were slow! I'd release, follow through, lower my bow hand, and still have enough time to spit before the arrow hit the target at 40 yards.
I now prefer to try my best to stay in the manufactures gpp specs to stay in the safe weight range. Weaker spine and lighter points. I don't stress over speed but I like for my arrow to move at a decent pace and hit where I'm looking.
I am a believer in the foc concept. But I can't accommodate my point on being 20 yards. Just my thoughts on the subject...it's what works best for me.
I shoot 35-55's cut to 29 1/4 with standard inserts and a 200 gr point through the majority of the bows. That set up usually tunes great for me as long as I do my part and make a clean release.
Arrow flight is a personal thing. What works for some mightnnotnwork for others. Using a bow quiver that straps to limbs changes spine, release effects spine, shooting style effects spine, string type and silencers effect spine, etc.
Best option is to use a 3355 and a 5575 and bare shaft tune with the head weight you want. You can make adjustments by cutting shaft down a little at an time to increase spine. Adding point weight will weaken spine. An hour of testing will get your shafts tuned to your situation.
Its great to get suggestions and ideas but ultimately bare shaft testing is gonna give you the answers you are after and give you the best flying arrow.
My 5575's with 50 grains in the insert and 125 grain tip makes my point on 25 yards. These arrows are not flying good because I apparently need more point weight. I am with Shag08, I don't like my point on less than 25 yards so I don't really want to shoot any more point weight. Im thinking maybe the 3555's with the 50 grains in the insert and a 125 grain point. But my arrow weight will only be around 470 grains, not sure if that is enough weight for good penetration.
I know where you are coming from brother. I worried myself to death over arrows and gpp and foc etc for far too long. I'm no expert by any means at any of this. Very seldom do I make a post on things that I'm sure others know more about than myself. I just feel for you cause I've been there.
I'd just shoot what tunes/flies the best. Stay in the manufactures "safe gpp range" and have fun.
I tried, just like you, to shoot stiffer spined arrows with lots of weight up front and it just wouldn't work for me....slow as smoke by the time they flew straight.
I've got a full length, bare shaft 35-55 I used for testing. You are welcome to have it to try out a weaker arrow if you want it. I think I may have a few other bare shats in different lengths that didn't work for me that you can have too. PM me an address and I'd be glad to let you have them.
And remember...as they always say...it's the shot placement that brings down game. Not an extra heavy arrow that misses the mark.
Your arrow is too stiff. Add a brass insert and go over 200gr in the point and you would be amazed how much better and arrow will fly!
Like Bisch said, 250 is probably how heavy you will have to go to get them to fly! I always have around if not over, 200gr on the end of my arrows
With arrow stiffness you have to remember that spine and point weight affect stiffness in a linear fashion ... i.e. double point weight and arrow stiffness drops by half, double spine and stiffness doubles.
Arrow length is exponential, so if you half the arrow length, the stiffness increases by 4x.
The reason I mention this is because arrow length is absolutely critical. 55/75 might be ok, but probably at full length with the point weight you're talkiing about, assuming your bow is at or near centershot.
If theose 55/75's are cut down, they become very stiff, very quickly.
I cut my arrows to 30 inches.
Grab an SBD string and a 30" 5575 will work great with about 200 up front.