Hi guys....I am switching from shooting right handed to left handed...and just picked up a left hand 40#@28 Bear Montana from Big Jim to start the process. Just wanted some opinions on which arrow might be best for this setup. I was thinking a easton 1916....or would i be better of going with an 1816? My draw length is about 26".....so I am guessing I will be around 35#. Dont have intent on hunting with this bow...just using the lightweight setup to start the change over. Thanks for the help.
At that draw length I would be inclined to suggest the 1816's. I shoot 1916's out of my 45-47# bows drawing 28".
1816 with 145 screw in, 27" bop.
I agree. Heart surgery has put me into a 40# recurve to work my way back. It's got a deeper sight window than a longbow, and a 1916 or CX75 will work ok. I think an 1816 would too, and would be more necessary out of a longbow of the same weight.
If you decide to go with carbons get some 1535 GT blems from Big Jim.
QuoteOriginally posted by Hermon:
At that draw length I would be inclined to suggest the 1816's. I shoot 1916's out of my 45-47# bows drawing 28".
Hermon is right. 1816's all day long. I use them on my 40#ish longbows and 1916's on my 45-47# bows.
I have a lot of light weight bows and no arrow is more universal than the Grizzlystik Sitka. I've spent a lot of money playing around with arrows for 30-45lb bows and the Grizzlystik Sitka is usually what shoots best out of any particular bow in those weights.
Thanks for the replys guys. Someone mentioned the goldtip 1535's....could i get away with this arrow? I dont really have much experience with carbons...but i could shoot that arrow with the higher weight i am hopefully gonna work up to for hunting season as well. Even though i wont be hunting with the montana i still want it to have decent cast...or would i have to front load the 1535 so much that that wouldnt be possible. Thanks
I find my 1916's with 125 grain points and my 1535's with 175 grain points to tune about the same for me.
I would go with the 1816 or if your willing to try carbons take a look at the arrow dynamics traditional light shaft.
You will not have to load the front that much on the GT 1535's. One of my longbows is 44# and maybe a pound less at my draw and I shoot the 1535's and they are 29" long with a 150 head and standard insert. The fletched and bare shaft shoot exactly the same at 20 yards.
How much you have to front load the 1535's will most likely depend on the centershot of the bow.
1816s all day..............
I'm shooting 40lb toelke whip long bow at my 27 " draw, easton axis 600 spine 28.5, 60 grain brass, 145 tip = 195 up front.
Fly like a dart.
I shoot a Leon Stewart Slammer 1 piece that is marked 42# at 28" and I have a 27" draw. I shoot 1535 GT Trads at full length with that set up and they fly very well.
QuoteOriginally posted by Keb:
I'm shooting 40lb toelke whip long bow at my 27 " draw, easton axis 600 spine 28.5, 60 grain brass, 145 tip = 195 up front.
Fly like a dart.
Isn't that 205 up front?
QuoteOriginally posted by Keb:
I'm shooting 40lb toelke whip long bow at my 27 " draw, easton axis 600 spine 28.5, 60 grain brass, 145 tip = 195 up front.
Fly like a dart.
+1 on the 600s. I have the same bow, same weight and I also got it from Big jim. 600s with 125 points shot like darts. my draw is 28 3/4". I hope this helps.
I would say the 1816's would be best, but leave them at least 28" long.
I made mistake I have 50 grain inserts, loving them axis trad shafts, I'm a wood man, but they are unreal.
Acetone took the label of and crested them with sharpies as close as I can get.
I never tinkered with weight up front, but I'm a believer my 25 and 30 yard groups are tighter than ever.