Like the title says.
What is YOUR preferred arrow finish? Why?
I really like Formbys Highgloss. Why..... I have been using this finish for a longtime in my woodworking projects , I have an understanding of it and have perfected my application process. It is nothing more than a wiping varnish, but alas they all seem to respond and work differently and I just have my system down with it.
I am new to wood arrows so I have been experimenting with different finishes, and application processes. I have tried dipping , which I love the fact that two dips is a nice glass like coat , but I'm still sticking with my Formbys. I can have a good thick coat on in two days time and am happy with it.
So tell me about your finish
My buddy Tony used Massey style epoxy finish (thin two ton with acetone) on his wooden arrows, and I was incredibly impressed. When I shot wood I used 3Rivers water based, but it was a mess. Wish I'd tried the epoxy. His arrows took a lot more abuse without needing any touch ups, and when he did he just wiped some on the spot and in twenty minutes it was good to go. I tried the finish on a selfbow, and was incredibly impressed with how durable and easy to apply it was(I did wax it afterwards for a really water tight finish though).
MinWax poly satin. Not shiney and doesn't smear my Sharpie crests.
Minwax Poly, waterbase, or oil base - semi gloss
Minwax poly water base - semi gloss
Watco
I wipe on two or three coats of Tung Oil. Got the idea reading a post here, someone mentioned it was lighter, by around 30 grains,
than poly's, and my preferred shafts were weighing in higher than I wanted.
With the Tung Oil, I've been getting the weights right where I like.
I've been using three coats lately, on most of my arrows.Two good coats works well and save a day of drying time. Three coats start to look similar to the poly's, the third coat usually looks better than the two, in durability and appearance.
Simple to touch up, easy to work with, don't need a dip tube ( of course I have one anyway, dipped my first few dozen in water based poly). I make pretty simple arrows, have had no issues with compatibility with the Minwax stains, & Sharpies, duck, fletching tape, etc.
Mainly, the advantage for me is how light they finish. I'll be following along to learn more about some of the other finishes.
I use Minwax Wipe-on Poly water based Gloss. The gloss is a little harder finish than the semi gloss. Minwax isn't as tough as ProFin, but a lot less expensive, easy to clean up and easy to apply with a piece of soft cloth.
Minwax wipe-on Poly, oil base. 4 coats with enough time between coats to dry hard and slick. If you shoot into 3d targets and get wear up front you can just re-apply over the worn area, it will blend in fine.
Minwax oil base gloss poly thinned a bit; 3 dips. I find the oil base to be a much tougher finish than the water base and the gloss is tougher than the satins in any finish. I prefer to dip, but you can wipe on straight from the can, just keep the coats thin. Thin coats make for a tougher finish and much less if any target burn. Lots of folks like the water base finishes such as Polycrylic. I tried several and they just didn't hold up for me like the oil base. Profin is a very good finish, too, but not easily obtained in the Midwest.
QuoteOriginally posted by Drewster:
I use Minwax Wipe-on Poly water based Gloss. The gloss is a little harder finish than the semi gloss. Minwax isn't as tough as ProFin, but a lot less expensive, easy to clean up and easy to apply with a piece of soft cloth.
I mix Minwax gloss with mineral spirits. About 50/50. Excellent hard finish. If I want to dull it I'll steel wool it.
Dip tube.
I use the massey finish but substitute denatured alcohol for the acetone, have tried it both ways. Just got finished putting a coat on an osage self bow and a dozen surewoods about an hour ago. For me it's the easiest finish around. Kids brought me an arrow they found in the woods the other day broken but finish done its job well. Used a hickory selfbow all winter in all types of weather finish held up great.
I should note I use the thicker Minwax oil poly and cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. I leave it in the tube with no setup issues over time. Filled it last Nov and used the same stuff a week ago to seal a crested carbon Gold Tip. Had to dip most of the arrow to get to the cresting on the already fletched shaft.
Minwax wipe on poly ( oil based)
I start with a few coats of gloss and finish with a few of satin.
Goes on easy and smooth with bounty towels.
Dries quick
Local hardware carries it.
I use it for bows too.
Duco grips to it very well for my feathers.
Fletch tape sticks to it well also
I can write something on one layer of the finish with a sharpie and then go over with more coats with zero smearing.
1. Tung oil
2. Minwax wipe on poly
3. Tru oil
Tru oil is actually great stuff, but stores around here dont carry it except in aerosol cans.
I still use Fletch-lac, but I'm planning to change to a less toxic finish.
I use plain minwax wipe on water based poly.....light smoothing between coats with scotchbrite pad until sealed or reach level of gloss I want. Usually 5-6 coats is all I do for our humid wet hunting in southeast.
Nice to hear what y'all are doing
I have been using Gasket Laq. the last few years. I have had cracking issues lately. There was a thread about this not to long ago. When my supply is gone I am going back to Wipe On poly.
I do some woodworking and like to try different finishes. I am thinking of using hot boiled linseed oil to "age" the shafts first. Then apply the wipe on poly.
After staining the bottom portion, Minwax Poly w/o thinning it out. 4 coats hand rubbed in, lightly steel wool in between coats.
Then it's Fletch Lac paints for my crown dipping.
BLOOD .... lots of BLOOD :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by elkken:
BLOOD .... lots of BLOOD :thumbsup:
Lol
What do you thin the minwax oil base with?
Dipping, Do you just dip and hang it up to dry, or do you use a gasket like you do for gasket lacquer?
Neuse - either paint thinner or mineral spirits. I had been thinning to about 25%, but my friend Bud B. above suggested 50%. I gave that a try on some shafts yesterday and it significantly cut the dry time. Will need more coats, but will actually end up with a better finish.
Ok thank you Green.
Do you dip without gasket and then let drip dry?
I will be at the store today to purchase these items.
Minwax poly satin. 3 dips. Best I have ever come up with but some great thoughts here I may look at .... Good posts
I like a thin layer of BLOOD evenly distributed along the shaft, with a lot of dried bubbles also.
QuoteOriginally posted by neuse:
What do you thin the minwax oil base with?
Dipping, Do you just dip and hang it up to dry, or do you use a gasket like you do for gasket lacquer?
Thin with a good quality paint thinner. I thin about 3:1 or a bit more. A few thin coats makes a much tougher finish than a single thick coat. Dip without the gasket and let them hang to dry. The gasket requires a VERY thick product or the gasket just wipes it all off. Oil base poly will dry in about 6 hours, a little longer for the first coat, but will continue to cure for several days. Full cure takes about 7 days depending on temp. Once cured it is very tough.
Ok thanks Fletcher. I am dipping some now.
Fletcher's right on the money about the dry time. It was right at six hours before I could steel wool the shafts prior to the second coat. Will probably go three coats before cresting, but I'm very pleased with the outcome. :thumbsup:
Carbon is my favorite.... But....
For woodies i like Bulls Eye shellac wiped on with a rag. about 3 coats usually does it. polish with steel wool.
I have used fletch lac for over 30 years,but was thinking of switching to something cheaper.With the minwax what paints and glue are compatable? Will the lacquer paints bubble it?
THANKS FOR ANY INFORMATION.
AL
This thread really surprises me. I use gasket lacquer, have Profin waiting, just never had time to switch.
How about marine varnish, anyone?
Has anyone noticed a particular increase in spine using one finish over another? I used to used a 50/50 Deft & mineral spirits, dipped twice, & increased spine by 5 pounds or more. A great tough finish but most glue wouldn't stick. Now I use a wipe on MinWax oil based stain/ sealer. Wipe twice & no real spine change & everything sticks.
I'm going to be a bit of a smart aleck, and say carbon fiber is my favorite arrow finish!
Me and wood arrows do not get along too well!
Bisch
I just dipped some in this thinned down minwax formula, they look great. Thank Ya'll.
Where can I buy shortcuts in the bottle?
Neuse, try True Value hardware. That's the only place I have found them. There are a few places online, too. Many places carry the spray, wish more would handle the bottles. Great cresting paints.
Another vote for Minwax wipe-on poly. Easy to use.
Carbon here as well. There was a time when I had time to work up some good wood arrows - when I did I used min wax semi gloss with dip tubes.
I just prefer to spend my time now with grand kids or scouting or a host of other things. I seldom do more than slap three 4" fathers on my goldtips anymore...... I do miss all those fancy colors and cresting lines in my quiver though
I hear you Dave. I made the move to Gold Tips a couple of years ago. I still shoot woodies thru my vintage Bear bows but even those aren't made by me. I've been picking up new/old stock Bear cedar arrows and refletching those. I seldom make arrows from scratch anymore unless I'm reconditioning old arrows someone has given me. I've got a lot of those. Someone will say "I found these old arrows, you want them?"
Like Kirk, I really like Shellac. It dries fast and clear.
I've met some of the top Split Bamboo Fly Rod builders and they all dip in Marine Varnish thinned down with turpentine. Am thinking of giving this a try.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
I'm going to be a bit of a smart aleck, and say carbon fiber is my favorite arrow finish!
Me and wood arrows do not get along too well!
Bisch
Hey smart Alec.....don't you have some pork needs killin'? :laughing:
I use spar urethane Wipe on or rattle can....you have to let it set up well if you plan on using duco
Minwax Wipe on Poly semi gloss 4 coats.
I prefer the Bohning Fletch Lac for its glassy, hard finish and bright opaque colors. I have been using Pro Fin for my more primitive arrows and have found it to also be a superior finish but it will tinge light colors yellow.
I use wipe on minwax poly as well.I use a teeshirt cut into smaller squares to apply it.
Arm-R-Seal, low toxicity high quality polyurethane with some other natural stuff I believe. I have recovered arrows out of my lawn years later to find the fletch adhering to the shaft still, glued with Ducos.
Kris
QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
I should note I use the thicker Minwax oil poly and cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. I leave it in the tube with no setup issues over time. Filled it last Nov and used the same stuff a week ago to seal a crested carbon Gold Tip. Had to dip most of the arrow to get to the cresting on the already fletched shaft.
Just wanted to post up that after about 5+ months I just started seeing the combo above start to set up so I dumped it and cleaned the dip tube and will start anew with a fresh batch.
I have gone to all water based paints (crown dip and cresting), stains, and wipe on poly so that I can work on arrows inside when its too cold to be outside or the season has closed.
I thought about trying old masters,has anyone used or tried old mastres?
How do you make the Massey finish? I take it you mix the 2 tubes of epoxy together and then thin it ? How much of each? Thank you
Minwax Polyurethane