After buying some really good wood arrows. I have decided that I would like to start making my own. I have most of the tools, but need a scale, are those $25-35 digitals any good. Also I have heard that a Woodchuck grinder is the only way to go for perfect tapers. I don't have a table saw or disc sander. What else do I need?
What is a good finish Min-Wax poly?
Bob: Good luck with your projects. I made custom wood arrows for a while and I will pass on a few things that may be helpful. I tried to do it on the cheap but have to tell you that an inexpensive disc/belt sander will go a long way to make you more versatile. Not only can you do nock and point tapers but you can also use the sander to taper or barrel taper shafts. Ask for one for Chistmas.
A scale is a good idea for getting arrow weights dead on and the newer cheaper ones seem to be as good as the more expensive models.
The best tip I feel I can pass on has to do wit dipping. I got a 3 inch section of PVC pipe, capped one end and put a 4" expander on the other so I could dip and have a reservoir for what would otherwise be spill over. I wanted to use sealers that were readily available in the local hardware stores and I experimented with various finishes. I liked the Minwax solvent based poly the best. I thinned it 1/3-1/4 with mineral spirits and three of four dips with some steel wool in between gave me a really nice duravble finish that my customers loved and it did not pick up residue from 3D targets and you can use duco cement for all your fletching.
For crown dipping I used alcohol based Rit dye in a quart plastic bottle. Dip as often as you need to to get the color you want. My cresting machine was made from an old broken hand mixer that I dropped and broke about 40 years ago...some duct tape and a little ingenuity and I had a variable speed crestor that is still in service.
Have fun...oh, yeah, you need a spine machine....can't do good arrows without one.
Also, Guru has a "how to hook straighten wood arrows" on the do it yourself thread on this site...another invaluable skill. Hook straightening is the best way to get wood straight and keep them that way.
Thanks Bill, I have a good arrow straightner with a dial indicator, didn't think of a spine machine, I have an old Bohning cresting machine, plan to use Whispering wind paints, I have a Woodchuck jig to make tapered barreled shafts.
BC gives some good advice I just made 8 I don't know why 8 but I guess thats what I had that matched within 10grs and I used one of those cheap dig scales. I like it. I tapered and then tapered the nocks and points. During the taper of the shaft I was able to get these shafts within 1 gr of each other and most are dead on. I might add that I do not think they need to be matched that closely at all but it was fun to get them that way with out much trouble. Good Luck
First thing is start with good shafting--costs more up-front, but makes a much better arrow, and will save you a lot of time straightening and checking/sorting spine (if you buy shafts that have already been hand-spined).
I use an epoxy finish--best I've seen, everything you need for the finish is available at any hardware store, Wal-Mart, etc. I can send you the "recipie" if you want.
Chad
Hey Bob-
I just assembled my first arrows. I didn't "make" anything. I bought shafts, vanes (practice arrows), nocks and points and glued them up. It is still fun to shoot "my" arrows. I'll watch for your posts to help me make my own stuff!
I played with wood arrows until I realized they were way more expensive in the long run than the carbons I shot. Anyway, I whole heartedly recommend Chad's epoxy recipe for either full length wood dipping or just over the cap/crest of aluminum/carbon. Good luck in your endeavor!
QuoteOriginally posted by JC:
I played with wood arrows until I realized they were way more expensive in the long run than the carbons I shot.
Yep, I'll second that and to add my very best wood arrows were no comparison to carbon with regards to shooting qualities.
I would recommand rit-dye for a cap dip and or stain, alcohol based to makes things go quicker and gasket lacquer to seal, as you can get three coats on in minutes. I used Testors model paint for a crest where the two dyes bleed over. Oh yea make sure your in a well ventilated area. Good luck.
I just use the woodchuck taper tool not a grinder I don't know if they're perfect but then again they don't need to be they're wood.
You could be right about the cheaper and bettter,guess one could say that about a compound bow too. I say there is nothing better than taking an animal with a wooden stick that you turned into an arrow,aluminum and carbon doesn't compare.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rico:
You could be right about the cheaper and bettter,guess one could say that about a compound bow too. I say there is nothing better than taking an animal with a wooden stick that you turned into an arrow,aluminum and carbon doesn't compare.
How did you get from arrows to compound bows...Amazing :banghead:
Regarding your second comment...Been there done that many times with cane arrows, feathers I harvested cut and shaped, trade heads I made from saw blades and a yew selfbow. I'll take my DAS Master, carbon arrows and four blade Muzzy's thank you.
Bob,
You have an email.
Bill
Yeah Bill read it and went to the site, not sure about them as the catalog says Acme shafts, but mentioned that they are spined by Rose City?? Any "real" Acme shafts would be pretty old.
If you can get acme shafts they are the best still working with a few I have squirreled away.
I'll take my DAS Master, carbon arrows and four blade Muzzy's thank you.??.
KodiakBob, take a peek at Making a Simple Arrow on my site. Nice post, Bill. Jawge
Chad, what's your recipe with the epoxy?
QuoteOriginally posted by Rico:
If you can get acme shafts they are the best still working with a few I have squirreled away.
I'll take my DAS Master, carbon arrows and four blade Muzzy's thank you.??.
What don't you get?? Having done the nostalgic thing I discovered I prefer inherent accuracy and consistency with regards to archery. Please don't bring up compounds either. I have nothing against them I just don't feel comfortable using them in hunting situations and that is all I use my bow for, other than some practice in the yard and an occasional 3-D.
Acme are the best in cedar shafts IMO sorry for any confussion.
Yes Rico, Acme were the best shafts ever made. The Reference from WildmanSc was that F/S Discount Archery lists Acme shafts, but they say they are spined by Rose City? The reason I want perfect woodies is that I want to be able to compete in real longbow classes where you are limited to wooden arrows.
Had quite a few requests for the arrow finish, so I'll just post it here. Have to give the credit to my friend Tom who refined it for arrows.
Tom Kiessling's process for making wooden arrows using the
epoxy/acetone finish.
1) First thing I do is stain shafts. I usually use aniline dyes from Gray Ghost Archery, but any stain will usually work. I only stain to where the stain and crown will meet.
2) After stain dries, using 0000 steelwool to remove any raised grain, then stain again if necessary to achieve desired color.
3) If I don't have any epoxy formula made up, I use the following procedure for that.
*I purchase Devcon 2-ton epoxy and a can of acetone from Wal-Mart in the paint section. I use a 4 ounce jar (baby food or mason jelly jar) to squirt the entire contents of epoxy in to. I then completely mix the 2 epoxy parts until clear. I then add 1 ounce of acetone (1/2 jar) and stir until the epoxy appears to have dissolved and looks only like acetone remains. I then fill the jar with acetone and stir again for a few seconds.*
4) Applied one coat of epoxy as described next.
*Always wear chemical resistant gloves, I use the blue Nitrate cloves that the tools trucks (Snap-On, Mac) sell to local automotive and diesel garage mechanics. I use small cotton rags from t-shirts.
Hold arrow at nock or point end, make one long continuous swipe from end to end. Then rotate shaft 180 degrees and do again. (Do not attempt to double wipe on same side, the rag will stick to the first coat).
5) After epoxy dries, check for raised grain. Remove if needed.
6) Apply a second coat of epoxy.
7) I will mark the shafts for my crown. I use 2 inch masking tape at the crown line. I then spray the crowns on, (I usually use Krylon enamels, and usually 2 coats will be enough). **If you are going to use fluorescent colors, always spray a basecoat of white first.**
8) After crown dries, apply cresting lines (Testors model paints work great).
9) After crown and cresting are COMPLETELY dry, spray or brush the crown and crestings with a thin coat of Min Wax Water Based Polyacyrlic (blue can). I prefer to brush mine on while shaft is in my crester. (I use an Arrow Specialties crester).
10) After poly dries, apply second coat.
11) After letting poly dry an hour, apply first coat of epoxy over entire shaft. Make sure to check wiping rag for paint residue after first arrow to insure that acetone is not attacking cresting and crown. If paint is being attacked, crest the arrow if needed, and give another coat of poly over all arrows. Some paint will show up from the nock end where there wasn't any epoxy.
12) If all is ok, I will usually put on 5 to 7 coats of epoxy,make sure to smooth out finish very lightly with 0000 steel wool between all coats.
13) I then set nocks using Duco cement, and mount feathers with either Bohning Fletch Tape or regular super glues (not the gel stuff).
I prefer the tape. This makes for easy feather repair if needed.
Make sure to remove any excess epoxy from the nock taper first,the cement will stick better. I do this with the small blade of my pocket knife.
As far as wood arrows not being as accurate, well.......look at some old footage of Ben Pearson, Howard Hill, the Wilheim brothers, etc. The catch is getting good wood arrows and knowing how to match them to your bow. Get it right, they'll shoot as good as anything. Problem is it can be hard to find really good wood shafting, match it up, etc. Lots easier to buy aluminum or carbon that's already matched.
I don't shoot wood for the nostalgia, I shoot them because I like them. As long as I do my part, they will do theirs.
Chad
Thanks LBR.
Chad,
Is there any known shelf life to your mixture?
YOu might also tryin and find some shafts by Raven.
I'm not sure if he's in buisness still or not for the shafting side. I will say his seconds are better then almost everyone else's firsts!!!
I really don't know Rod--I generally use a batch up pretty quick (do 3 or so dozen arrows) when I get started. It's cheap enough that it wouldn't bother me to stir it up for one dozen though.
Chad
QuoteOriginally posted by LBR:
I use an epoxy finish--best I've seen, everything you need for the finish is available at any hardware store, Wal-Mart, etc. I can send you the "recipie" if you want.
Chad [/QB]
Hi Chad...I'd like that recipe if you don't mind...I got a dozen shafts coming soon too.
PM me...
It's posted above EA--if you need any help with it, just holler.
Chad