Has anyone had any luck with pinning feathers method as described in Hunting the Hard way?
Any pointers????
I did that a few years ago (I was a kid and had to make do with "cheap"). It can be done but you certainly won't get the precision of a jig.
I do remember that I steamed the quills lightly to soften them so they were more able to be set in the line I wanted. I did use a straight fletch as it is nearly impossible to get the same "helical" position when you are trying to pin the feathers.
Like all "hand craft" jobs it takes attention to detail and practice.
On the humerus side, You will have better luck pinning feathers on wood than on aluminum or carbon. :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Arne
It certainly works and will do until you can get a proper fletching jig. It's pretty labor intensive and the jig is easier and more consistent. It will save you a bunch of headaches and even a cheap one will do a fine job.
Get big strong large headed pins for doing this.
I am thinking that stripping the quill like the primitive guys do would make for a very thin quill which may adhere better and be a smoother transition.
Just playing aorund and trying out different things.
Can you pin already chopped feathers or are the full length ones easier to handle and burning preferred? Do you need to leave a little bit of quill exposed and stripepd to pin to?
Arne, you laugh but I bet someone sometime has tried that. Need a REALLY strong pin!
Another thought (haven't thought about this in 50 years). When you "pin," push the pins in at an angle and not at 90 degrees. The angle helps with getting the pin to hold and penetrate the wood better AND helps hold the feather quill down to the shaft while the glue dries.
Arne
PS Yes, you can use pre-cut feathers and you can get a pin to hold on just the lip on the side.
Great..thanks! Thinking if I angle the second pin and then slightly straighten it, it may help put tension on the feather and help it stretch out flat?
Get a single Jo Jan fletcher, they work great and don't cost that much....
I take the clamp and put upside down in a 4" vise to hold it....And I put fletching tape on all of the fletches...
And then ya just peel the tape and fletch, go's pretty quick....
When I fletched without a fletcher, I always put a line on the arrow with a pencil as a start for the cock feather, that way i could better gauge my spiral. I did not pin them. I coated the arrow with glue at the lead end of the feathers, and then stuck the feathers to it when it got tacky. Then I would start with the thread and adjust the narrow end of the feathers around the shaft, tighten it down with a couple of snug wraps. When that position was secure, then I worked towards the nock end to develop the spiral. You can put on super spiral if you want to.
I Much Prefer To Use Staples. :laughing: :dunno:
chuckc
That was easy. :laughing: get it "Staples"!
:laughing: oh wow yall are too funny!!! anyways, when i had/have to fletch without a jig, i also do the string method...the spyderwire fishing line works well and has a high abrassion strength to it; after wrapping i also coat the threads with glue...you can get a better helical/spiral this way, it just takes longer and more attention to do it this way..lol
You know, I'll bet a steady hand and one of those potato chip bag clips would do a pretty good straight fletch, too.
I strip em & use fletch tape. I use a jig, but you can't believe how great and low profile they glue up. I just glue the tips. With no jig I'd draw lines as pavan said. It's better with a jig.
Guys, you all make good points but the OP's original question was about Hill's method of using straight pins to apply fletching, NOT about lots of different ways to fletch. I think we all know there are better ways available to us.
Just say'n
Arne
Okay, I should have added that. Any luck, no. With today's finishes and glues it does not work. 1. You have to have those pins, and they are hard to find sharp enough. 2. You have to use moisture to get the feathers and the pins to cooperate, good luck with your glue after that, unless you are using emers wood glue. 3. Hill went to fletchers as soon as he could himself. actually he had other people make his arrows as soon he found capable people to do it for him. 4. We all suggested ways that one could do it better, time marches on.
From what I read, Hill used round headed milner pins, thin quill, probably wet, to get them flexible, then put 1-pin at the rear, front pin was offset slightly (1/8"), feather straight not helical, rotate pin head toward tip, stretches feather tight. To glue, he used duco cement and put a bead along the outside edge of the quill on both sides. He then tapered the leading edge and added cement to hold it down.
I believe he offset the feathers by sight, but could have used a gauge or pencil lead.
If you have access to Bob Burton's book, he has pictures of several of Hill's arrows and the homemade multi-fletcher that he or someone built to make arrows.