I am bareshafting a new set of Surewoods, 80-85 Douglas Fir. I shoot a Sarrels 50@28, drawing around 30.5". With my arrows cut 31.25 with 145 tips the arrows were consistently showing slightly weak, not bad but definitely weak with knock left (right handed shooter). I then decreased point weight down to 125 to see what happened, and again weak. However, when I stepped back and canted the bow like I usually do, the arrows showed a little stiff. I have always thought that when bareshafting you need to hold the bow straight up and down but now I'm not sure! I think the arrows are spined about right but I would like for once to have that "perfect arrow" with bareshafting. Thanks for any input you have. V/R..
J
I've heard the same thing, but in my honest opinion I think one should hold the bow in the same manner when tuning as you would when shooting.
I'm not familiar yet with wood shafts, but I routinely got "false weak" when bare shafting carbons due to an overly stiff shaft contacted the riser. Put some white stick deodorant on your shelf and riser and check for marks just to take that possibility out of the equation.
Shoot exactly how you plan to shoot, including quiver w arrows if applicable.
Make sure your reaching full draw when canted and also not torquing the string with fingers.
When bareshafting I will start with bow vertical, easier to interpret high/low left/right. When I am close then go to normal amount of cant and get it on before moving to broadheads.
QuoteOriginally posted by KSdan:
Shoot exactly how you plan to shoot, including quiver w arrows if applicable.
I agree, tune the way you shoot. If you have an extreme cant when you shoot just keep it in mind and evaluate accordingly.
I've found bare shaft tuning with wood shafts to not work as well as with carbon or aluminum. Each woodie is an individual unto itself while the modern materials are the same from one to another (within reason). I love wooden arrows that I have made myself but even when matched in spine and weight they don't all bare shaft the same for me. Tuning wood arrows for me usually amounts to getting good arrow flight with fletched arrows, swapping the field points for broadheads, then shooting to confirm they shoot to the same spot. Those that don't might get trimmed a bit but more likely become practice arrows.
Keep in mind I don't shoot wood much anymore so take my comments on woodies for what you paid for them.