I am making another set of woodies. I am using Acrylic Testors and plan to dip final with Gasket Lacquer. The acrylic paint however doesn't seem to give that deep, rich look that I see on some arrows (see Snag's). I have used Pro Fin before and liked it, but the Gasket Lacquer is quick and simple. Can I use an "enamel" or oil based cresting paint with Gasket or do I need to stick with acrylic? I can switch lacquers as needed but I'd like a better looking cresting finish if possible. Thanks!
Hi Jeff. The GL is too hot for an enamel paint. You'll have your beautiful work in a "waterfall pattern".... :rolleyes: If you want to stick with the GL you need to use a waterbased paint like the acrylic. To get a more vibrant color the testors enamel is the ticket. It also thins nicely and will go on real smooooth. Go with the enamel and the Profin and you'll be a happy camper! Just won't be as quick as the GL.
Snag is as good as it gets for advice on the topic
Snag,
great advice. I love your work and always appreciate your comments. I didn't know that enamel was water based, I kept thinking it was oil based so I stayed away. I do love the Profin, I need to find an easier way to apply it with less drip. I'll get the enamel paints and give those a try. Thanks again and have fun in Germany!
J
For paints enamel is actually a descriptive term rather than an ingredient. It just means that the paint dries to a hard, durable finish.
Guy
Testors makes an "acrylic enamel" and then an "enamel". The acrylic is waterbased and the plain enamel is oil based. Kind of confusing.
You CAN use any of the testors paint for cresting IF after you are done cresting let it dry and with a q-tip or other brush run a light coat of polycrylic over it. Let that dry completely and then you can dip em as usual. This definitely takes away from the speed in which you can dip with gasket lacquer, but it is doable. I am looking forward trying the Dailys ProFin next!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z13dDHYSNMA/Uup7_kdZWsI/AAAAAAAACpk/uMPAXGqE4dw/w504-h672-no/IMG_5228%255B1%255D.JPG)
I use Whispering Wind paints, poly over then dip. I have tried other paints and did not like them
(http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u512/rraming/57623b2b.jpg)
Ok, just for my own clarification. Which one should you use with the profin? Acrylic enamel or enamel? And what is best for the crown with these? I know it's not rocket science, but I never was good at any kind of science!!!
^ I am not positive, but with Profin I am thinking either one is ok? be sure to let the cresting dry fully before dipping.
again I have not used profin yet, I am basing that off of something I read a while back so use at your own risk until someone with working knowledge chimes in.
You can use either acrylic or regular enamel with profin. I always let them dry till the next day before dipping the finish.
The only problem I've had with paint was with Metalics. If you use profin or any oil based poly use an acrylic metalic paint. An oil based metalic will run no matter how long you let dry. Dont know why but it does, otherwise I mix/match paints under profin with out issue.
Eric
If you use the enamel and dip in ProFin the cresting will run. You need to use the acrylic enamel or another waterbased paint.
Snag, when you dye the shafts, is there any issue with Rit dye, or fiebings leather dye? after dyeing and sanding them, when you dip does they dye contaminate the profin? if doing a cap dip/ paint, do you dye up to the cap, dip the entire shaft then paint the cap and dip again? just trying to get a handle on it!
thanks,
L.R.
I use Minwax dye. I tried some Fiebings a long time ago and yes it didn't like the ProFin...or visa versa. I think if you used something like I stain the shaft a little past the crown area. Then after letting it set I will steel wool the whole shaft. Any fibers that are raised from the stain are taken down to a good surface.
QuoteOriginally posted by snag:
If you use the enamel and dip in ProFin the cresting will run. You need to use the acrylic enamel or another waterbased paint.
I've never had that problem, only with the metalic's ...silver or gold... lucky I guess.
Eric
Snag, what about for "colors" red, blue, green purple, etc.... not just wood stains-
I steel wool my shafts as well after staining them to knock the fibers down and make them smooth. I let them dry for 2 days before dipping but I still get the odd bleed out into my Gasket Lacquer from some of my dyed shafts.
L.R.
(http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u512/rraming/6976f5ab.jpg)
Sorry - turn your head - I use Aneline Dyes, they come in like 20 colors, found at Woodcraft. I usually use natural colors but here is crazy red ones - I have done Blue as well
then you dip that straight into profin? with no bleeding issues? it doesnt contaminate the profin?
L.R.
What kind of fletching glue works with profin?
QuoteOriginally posted by Lone Ranger:
then you dip that straight into profin? with no bleeding issues? it doesnt contaminate the profin?
L.R.
I have dipped in gasket lacquer - I knock off raised grain after a day or so and then use gasket - never had anything go into lacquer. I do have Profin sitting until I use the rest of my gasket lacquer up.
I read Duco works with Profin