Archery season open tomorrow here in WI and I am fiddling around making a new set of broadheads. Thanks to all the reading I have been doing because of the good Doctor. :mad:
Tonight I started on a third version. This is a 2.3 : 1 ratio head that should end up around 180 grains. I decided to try an epoxy joint to see how it will hold up but even though it has a 3,500 PSI rating, I decided to use a pin to prevent the blade from coming out of the ferrule slot (should I hit something hard and need to extract it)
This is the layout on the .039 thick M42 bandsaw blade. To the right is one of the first set of heads I made for this years hunt. It has a double bevel and no Tanto point.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.31.jpg)
After removing the shoulders from the 125 grain field point, I slotted it and drilled a 1/16 dia. hole for the pin.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.312.jpg)
Here is the blade after blanking it out and putting the single bevel on it. The hole was put in with a tiny diamond ball grinder in my Dremmel tool.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.313.jpg)
I even went so far as to bevel the trailing edge of the blade in hopes of providing even more spin. (Patent pending or course :readit: )
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.314.jpg)
here is the dry run prior to using the epoxy. It should be hard in the morning. I will take it from there tomorrow.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.315.jpg)
Actually , I couldn't go out bowhunting for two more weeks even if I wanted to so I am just having fun messing around. :)
that looks great! I want one! wish I had the tools/time/skills to make that. Can't buy self relience. Your a lucky guy. I sure hope you get to try it on a deer. =)
Derek
Looks good Ron :thumbsup: Can't wait to see the results of your field testing.
Jerry
Ron,
What are you using to cut out the blade blanks?
I have a bandsaw blade, but I'm a L-O-N-G way from what you've done!
Daryl
Thanks for posting the pics of the new head, Ron. Looking forward to hearing how the epoxy holds up.
Stan
Great looking broadhead, :thumbsup:
If the epoxy gives you problems you might try some JB Weld.
Walt Francis
I've been checking these threads the last week or so. I'd like to say the heads look really nice but I'd like to interject some unsolicited ideas/advice. The first head you made looked a lot like a production head on the market. Good looking head no doubt. The downside of the coin is that I've had personal skip problems with that particular design. I believe the angle is too steep on the production head to take shots with much angle. You certainly don't want to go past a quartering shot. I opened a goat like a zipper because the head skipped down the rib cage. I think the Doc might have some words here as well. I'd personally advise a tad longer design with less abrupt angle change.
2nd I'd like to say that I've seen lots and lots of frustrated archers throw down the file because they couldn't sharpen the rounded type heads. When I say rounded I mean not having a straight edge from keel to point. The trick to sharpening is to keep a never changing angle with your file as you sharpen. Thats damn hard to do when the broadhead cutting edge is already ever changing from keel to point. This is where the straight edge will shine through especially for the new guys. This certainly is only one mans ideas so keep experimenting. You need to see some of these Black Stump broadheads the good Doc has sent me to try next. They are some really well built heads. I just wish they were BIGGER! :bigsmyl:
Thanks for taking the time to post all these pics of your broadhead experiments. CK
thanks for the thoughts littlefeather. At this point in the game, I am far from finished or having my mind made up on design. I am still tinkering. As far as sharpening. It may sound boastful (please forgive) but I have always had a knack for sharpening and getting thing sharp. I do a littler sharpening on the side and back on the farm during butchering, that was my job as a youth. Your right about a rounded edge being a little harder to master but I have always liked the looks of the curved line of a broadhead.
Hawkeye, I use a Dremmel tool with a small cut off disk. There is no heat build up to take the temper out of the material.
Well the Epoxy hardened over night and this morning, I applied the gun bluing and then gave the head a good sharpening.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.316.jpg)
These are the three styles of heads I made this week. The longest (bottom) head is the one I made yesterday, Now it's time to do some shooting.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.317.jpg)
very nice :0)
Again, nice work! The last design looks to be most effecient. Makes me want to go shoot em'! CK
I now have 5 made with a few more on the way. I plan to do a little testing when I get the rest done.
Those look great, nice work! I'd like to try that someday.
Finally finished with this years set. 170 grains +/- 2.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.319.jpg)
Now those look nice! Are they the ones with the brads? I'd shoot em! CK
Yes these are pinned.
Got a screw-in set? :goldtooth:
As a traditional bowhunter who is not much of a tinkerer...I am VERY IMPRESSED with some of the stuff you guys are able to do.
Sorry, I have not made any that screw in. I am a cedar guy.
nice heads like to see how they test out.
Bill
Ron, what Curtis is referring to is skip angle, and it's a factor with both single and double-bevel broadheads. There are a number of broadheads which show a 50% skip rate when the angle of bone impact reaches 30 degrees - far less than a true 'quartering' angle. However, some recent testing suggest that a short-wide (poor mechanical advantage) single-bevel BH shows a higher frequency of bone-skips once the skip angle is reached. There may also be some other factors at play in the outcomes though; and it will take more testing before anything clear-cut is known.
Not to leave a wrong impression, skip angle is PRIMARILY a function of broadhead MA; not the type of edge bevel. However, combining an already poor skip angle with a BH that tends to rotate appears to cause an increase in the frequency of skips (at the BH's skip angle).
With short-wide broadheads there's a bit of a trade off. In frequency of bone-penetration, they benefit the most (percentage wise) from having a single bevel. However, once the skip angle is reached, they show a higher frequency of bone skids than when double-beveled.
The bottom line: Regardless of the broadhead you use, know its skip angle and try to avoid hitting a bone at an angle that's anywhere near the skip-angle!
For what its worth, the best skip angles yet tested were: the the single-beveled Modified Grizzly and double-beveled Howard Hill (tied for second place),' with the ultra-high MA Grizzly Extreme (single beveled) being the best (but also too narrow to be legal in many areas).
Ed
heads look great. best of luck with the season with those i recon they'r gonna work very well.
thanks for sharing your work as well