well, last Friday I finally decided to order some cedar shafts. Looking to round out tradition this year, I guess. I was wondering if there are any tutorials on wood arrow building here that would be helpful. More specific, I'd be looking for nock alignment in relation to the grain and any other tips to make the best of my new venture.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Nock alignment is the "valley" of the nock is perpendicular to the grain.
Here's one good one by Flying Dutchman http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=106905;p=1
Here's another one in the how to:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119
Just do a little search (right under the ads where it says your profile, search etc.) of the forums and get some ideas on crestings and the like!
Good luck!
Looking good. Thanks guys! I love this bar.
I also really love this from the USPS website!!
January 22, 2014 , 11:39 am
Delivered .
WICHITA, KS
Go to the "How to" section. Will be as easy or hard as you want it to be.
I'll dig around tonight and see if I can locate some resources for you.
Take yourself down into the "How To" section from the main menu and there are many good threads on straightening and working with wood.
Trad Gang How To (http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=2)
Straighten before you taper and again after you stain, and one final check after the finish coat.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/sf1oak/Grain_zpsb1a7fe68.gif) (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/sf1oak/media/Grain_zpsb1a7fe68.gif.html)
Way to go joe :campfire: :campfire:
Man the How To section is addictive!! Well I got the shafts, hand straightened a few, tapered, red oak stained and now have a second coat of polyurethane on all of them. (Hanging to dry in the kitchen- don't tell the wife, she's out of town)
I've been wondering about something though... For those who buy and shoot wood shafts regularly, how many shafts do you typically expect to be 'shooters' from a given dozen? Are there typically throwbacks that become a part of another project? Just curious, as I don't want to get my hopes up and find out with a big slap in the face.
When I buy good quality shafts from good dealers/manufactures..ie hildbrande, surewoods..etc..99.9% are good.
...just have to make sure I order the right spine..and don't cut too short while tuning..lol
Rory, they should all shoot fine. Wood is all I have shot for thirty years and maybe one out of a hundred might have to be culled.
QuoteOriginally posted by joe skipp:
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/sf1oak/Grain_zpsb1a7fe68.gif) (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/sf1oak/media/Grain_zpsb1a7fe68.gif.html)
The image focuses on grain being perpendicular but also shows proper nock placement in respect to grain runout on the top and bottom of the shaft.
Perfect diagram Joe. :thumbsup:
Thanks guys. I am assuming one can tune Wood in the same manner as I tune Carbon and Aluminum.
yep...my experience is they are more sensitive than carbon.
meaning if you remove a 1/4" from a carbon you might not notice a change..take 1/4" off wood you'll probably notice a change.
inverse...carbons seem to absorb lots of tip weight changes and still fly well. Change the tip weight on wood 25 grains you'll probably see the change.
haven't tried Alum. shafts with trad gear so no comments there.
:thumbsup:
May I suggest a quality ''spine tester''. Some distributors will advertise w/in 5 lbs spine which means 40-45 could be some are 39-38 and others 46-47. I usually buy 2 dz and hope to get 1 quality dz shafts for hunting. Again, I use my spine tester to get the exact spine I need from a bundle of shafts.
QuoteOriginally posted by RedStag5728:
Here's one good one by Flying Dutchman http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=106905;p=1
Here's another one in the how to:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119
Just do a little search (right under the ads where it says your profile, search etc.) of the forums and get some ideas on crestings and the like!
Good luck!
I am pleasantly surprised to see that my tutorial still.is being used and appreciated!
Is it okay to paint a cap on these over a poly finish? Will it hold up? I love and hate new ventures all at the same time sometimes. I just don't want to slap some paint on the caps of these and have it ruined. the finishes look so nice on them right now, but I'm hesitant to fletch them in case I can paint the caps.
Seems quite a few arrows that I've seen with paint as the outer layer, the paint smeared from a little contact on the bow.
Not sure if there's a paint to use that won't.
Never painted an arrow..lol
As an option, you could get a wrap from onestringer.com
I've used spray(Krylon) paint and dipped in thinned water based paint for crowns with good success.
It surprises me how foreign wood arrows are to so many folks. That's all I've used for over 25 years. When I got started I ordered a dozen shafts from 3Rivers along with pre cut feathers and plastic nocks and built arrows. I used water based paint for crowns, water based poly to dip(in a PVC pipe) and seal and craft paint for cresting. They shot great and I haven't turned back. I really don't see the difficulty. Once you know what spine to buy you just make the arrows. It's not brain surgery and I consider the little extra you might have to do with wood shafts as part of my archery experience. Anyone can go to the archery shop and have someone make what they need but what fun is that.
I'm with you on wanting to do it all myself Pat. I've been cutting, tuning and fletching my own aluminums and carbons since shortly after taking to traditional archery a few years ago. I love not waiting for someone else to get it done for me. I just thought to tap the community for some experienced advise on wood, since this is my first batch.
Thanks!
Rory,sorry if I came off judgmental. To me wood arrows are archery. There are a few DVDs with step by step instructions on how to build wood arrows. Probably even a build along or 2 in the How To section here on TG. Once you learn the basics the sky is the limit. Cedar, spruce, ash, poplar, cane or hardwood shoot arrows will all shoot where you are looking and kill what you are shooting at if you do your part. It all depends on how deep you want to get into it.
Good luck with your new venture. If you love doing it yourself, you'll love wood arrows.
No offense taken Pat. You're the man! (Seriously)
I got a little antsy yesterday when I got home from work and went ape applying points to all of the shafts. I got several of them adjusted and spinning beautifully and decided to full length bare shaft one of them in the living room (pretty cold outside yesterday). It was hitting where I wanted it, just a little nock high. I went back, chopped a wild turkey cock feather, matched a couple of green hens and fletched it up.
I've been shooting indoor trad 3D league with carbons, so I didn't change my nocking point, but I did take my first cedar with me. (It must have been good luck at least being in my quiver, as I shot my personal best last night). I flung it a few times at ten yards before we got started and eight or ten times after we finished. All I can say is I hope the rest of the shafts fly at least half as well as the first! I think I'm hooked.
With a good bit of help from the gang. What do you think?
(http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/Cgosms_2014-01-2210-50-34.jpg)
(http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/autocompress1390605225225.jpg)
(http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/20140128_073034.jpg)
Those should do the trick, Rory.
What a difference an inch can make. After shooting the rookie batch several times full length, I finally got up the nerve to trim them down for sake of tuning. Initially I thought my form was suffering (have some inconsistency issues from time to time), but I should have known better. I cut an inch off of the arrows yesterday and braved the cold outside to see if there'd be a difference and SWEET! Now we're grouping! I can see where this is going: gonna need a dozen more before the end of the month.
Wood arrows are as addictive as wood bows. Are you ready for that Rory? d;^)
You're a brave man Rory.
I've never cut an inch off an arrow...not all at once anyway..lol
Wood arrows really make paper tuning shine IMO.
Since wood arrows just aren't as consistent as Al or carbons, I always end up with arrows that are slightly different lengths than the others. ...not much difference, just 1/4"-1/8" typically.
I see much more difference in arrow flight between arrows not perfectly ( as possible) spined than ones that might weigh a few grains more or less.
Paper tuning can be done inside too...only need about 9-10' of space...6' from paper, target back from paper far enough so the arrows get through the paper before hitting the target, and then of course space for the target itself.
:thumbsup:
Well, I was looking at the spine chart on 3Rivers and remembered I bought them a spine group weak in case I had to tune. I pull my longbow to 47lbs at 27" and prefer 145-150 grain point. According to the chart, at 30" to the BOP, a 55-60 is recommended there, so I bought the 50-55 thinking to leave some room for tinkering. I'm getting ready to make a new string that will fit the Bohning nocks better though. I've got my current string matched to the X-nocks on my Axis Trads and had to add a layer of floss to keep the woods from falling off the string. This after shooting one yesterday and basically dry firing my bow (ouch). I may have to take the plunge and do some paper tuning. I've never done any- always bareshafted with carbon and aluminum, but can see why nearly nobody does that with wood.