So, I bought some Grizzly 330's and was testing them out today..... I shot my AD HH Lites first to get a idea. So here are the particulars........
Bow: Dryad Recurve with ACS Limbs 53#
Arrows: 30" Grizzly 330's with 250grn Tips and 73grn Brass Inserts. 323grn total
30" AD HH Lites with 250grn Tips with aluminum inserts . 250grn total
All shots at 10yards and I am a Lefty . I can't figure if I am weak or stiff ? Do I judge this by going with Tip or Nock any help would be appreciated.... Thanks Guys
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Suty15/a10ee7a890633722c269b260110f743a.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Suty15/72463b7839f6248e08285df9c31f6eb0.jpg)
If you are left handed, the bare shafts are too weak. Use less weight up front or cut the length of the shaft down.
Looks like under spined...try a much lighter point and see what happens to confirm
DDave
And......there is good info on bare shaft tuning on the Brackenberry bows website. It is easy to understand. Keep bare shafting at 10 yards until things look real good and your bare shafts are shooting well. Then move back a bit as you fine tune.
They look pretty weak. I agree with Joe, work until you get it right at 10 yards and then move back. Shooting bare shafts at 10-15 yards is just to make sure they don't plane off the target. I don't think you really get close to tuned or any solid information until you are at least 20 yards from the target and 25-30 is even better. Just keep tweeking and moving back, tweek and move back....
Lighter points, cut your arrows back a bit, those are the usual remedies although some like to adjust things like centershot, brace, or string silencers. I have field points from 100-300 grains and find swapping points the easiest way to tune, at least to figure out what's going on.
This is a good link on bare shaft tuning... ACS Bows bare shaft planing (http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html)
Thanks Guys, this is what makes this place great. Going to drop to 200grn and give that a swing ...... Sutty
shoot bare shaft from 20 yds and watch them fly. Tail right weak,tail left stiff.
Keep in mind that I do not think AD shafts bare shaft as well as other types of shafts. With AD shafts I would not worry as much about how your shaft are angled left or right as much as where the point is hitting the target. What I see is that your fletched shafts are hitting higher than your bare shafts which means your knocking point on your string is too high. Lower your knocking point. Your arrows are hitting slightly left so they may be just a little weak but will shoot a little stiffer when you put on fletching and broadheads. You may have to cut just a little more off of them. Move back to 20 yards and see where they shoot. If I get AD shafts where the point of the arrows hits the target in the same spot as my fletched shafts regardless of if they are angle left or right then I fletch them up and they are ready to go. At this point I find that they will shoot broadheads perfectly. I do not think the AD shafts will bare shaft tune like other shafts and I think that confuses people and makes people think they will not shoot well with a broadhead etc. You may think I am crazy but that is just my 2 cents. I do not go to other sites often but read a post about a review on the AD shafts and the guy doing the review said the same thing and it is exactly the same as my experience.