I have shot 2 deer with steel force single bevel 300 grain broad heads and both had chewed up edges. The first was in the ground so I thought gravel but the second hung in the deer and never went into the ground with the same results. They were 2 different heads not one just resharpened. The second one cut about 1/4" of a rib going in and split a rib coming out. It was hard to get pictures that show the damage. I don't remember this happening to other heads just from ribs.
Sent them an email with pics but never heard back from them.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee178/sunstone/P1030073_zpseaaa4316.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/sunstone/media/P1030073_zpseaaa4316.jpg.html)
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee178/sunstone/P1030072_zpsd416fac5.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/sunstone/media/P1030072_zpsd416fac5.jpg.html)
Could the angle be super shallow thus making the steel thin and prone to damage? Just a guess. I am no expert.
Yep. What Bear Heart said. Either a very acute angle or steel not tempered properly, or both.
Sounds like they still did the job. Did they resharpen OK?
A broadhead is generally way softer than a knife so the edge isn't going to be as springy. It looks like it riffled rather than chipped so I think it not an issue. Hone it back sharp and use it again.
My 225 grains did the exact same thing and mine went trough all flesh. I was a little worried at first as well but mine honed right back.
The factory is a 25 degree bevel and I sharpening at 28 degrees using a KME. If it gets that messed up just going through a rib, it could effect penetration. Definitely not an acute angle and I don't ever remember this with other heads. I had a different head on the arrow tonight.
What is the hardness?
It doesn't say on the package the hardness just says stainless knife grade steel.
The old Bear Razorheads are somewhat soft too, but if they could speak to the game they've taken... The hardest steel in any broadhead I've sharpened is Tusker.
My retirement business is sharpening and most of it is hair styling shears of fine Japanese steel. These edges are called convex...doesn't need to be explained here, but it amounts to a low angle(40-55 degrees). These edges are fragile and will not hold up on soft or cheap steel. And, that's when they're typically cutting only washed human hair! Look at the toughness of the edges of an ax or meat cleaver -those aren't especially hard, and they hold up under abuse. Broadheads typically shouldn't be real hard either. You have to balance toughness against becoming too brittle. I am a single bevel broadhead advocate, but I accept that these edges are a bit fragile. I don't know for sure what the Rockwell hardness should be, or even that it's the whole story. Some qualities of a particular scissor alloy will make it work better than one that's simply harder.
I would share your disappointment at this edge after such hits. To say that it hones right back to a good edge is one thing, but none of use want to think our edge is "half this dull when it's halfway through a deer!" You can dress a moose with a cheap knife and sharpen it 50 times in the process....but you'll have a different knife the next time! I would look for different broadheads to improve the performance. Can't say what brands here on the forum, but your experience tells me I won't be using Steelforce!
OK, Bud mentioned one, so I will. I have been very pleased with Tuffheads, Ashbys, and Brown Bears.
And, Bud, you're not talking apples and apples. The Bear Razorhead is soft as cheese, but it's factory angle is more than twice the angle of these. (Not disputing that it's likely killed more game than any other bhd).
The tusker wears your arm out getting the bevel set.
QuoteOriginally posted by oldbohntr:
And, Bud, you're not talking apples and apples. The Bear Razorhead is soft as cheese, but it's factory angle is more than twice the angle of these. (Not disputing that it's likely killed more game than any other bhd).
That was my point. The Bear is the softest I've dealt with and I accept that it needs touching up frequently. It could be the angle needs increasing on the single bevel for a bit more durability. A razor sharp edge is easier when the angle is shallow (think X-Acto blades), but shallow sacrifices durability as stated.
I would contact the manufacturing company for answers. Or buy Tuskers (from Braveheart).
I believe Steel Force uses a 420(C?) stainless, which is a steel that many knife makers don't fancy. Gerber does some nice work; but it's all about the tempering. A broadhead is left a lot softer. So you feather out a nice edge and it rolls up on bone. Your second image would shy me away from those heads. I'd rather see nicks and dings than smushed. There is no temper there to speak of.
I like file sharpened carbon steel. 1075 seems to be common.
If I pull a head out of the dirt it is resharpened before I put it back in my quiver. Gives me time to reflect on my shame.
I've been using good old zwickeys and magnus, and they seem to be just fine ... although rust seems to be a killer of sharpness over th ecourse of the season for both.
Maybe I'll get into some of those tusker heads.
It appears to me that stainless steel is not the best choice with the flat shear edge for this single bevel. Would that edge have held up better if the flat side of the blade had just a slight slight bevel put on it when sharpening? Something like a couple of light passes with fine diamond hone.
Think Abowyer heads, killed two deer with them since switching, each time complete pass through of ribs. No change to head and still shaved hair. They rock and are built like tanks. Also fly like fieldpoints. :thumbsup:
The edge appears to be rolled over which may be a heat treat problem. I would contact Steelforce as I am sure they would be interested in the problem.
I have had the same thing happen when I shot a single bevel head through my target into the dirt except mine weren't steelforce they were another really well known brand. That's why for me it's all double bevel 4 blades and 3 blade heads.
I want to add even after mine rehoned well I dont use them today. There is no way a blade should roll like that that easy especially through flesh as mine did. Its a shame too because they are the right shape and size.
I have shot a single bevel tusker in the dirt, cleaned it off, then shot it a few dozen times into my rhinoblock, still sharp. 50-52 rockwell
Flying Dogg
Contributor 2014
Member # 5977
Icon 1 posted January 10, 2014 12:41 PM Profile for Flying Dogg Email Flying Dogg Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post Reply With Quote The edge appears to be rolled over which may be a heat treat problem. I would contact Steelforce as I am sure they would be interested in the problem.
I sent steel force an email with pics over a week ago, nothing but crickets. They advertize a life time warranty. ????
I have seen this happen to 3 or 4 different makes of broadheads. All of them were stainless steel. I had some replaceable blade Cabelas points that actually looked as if they were almost serrated after passing through an animal, much worse looking than your points. IMO it has to do with stainless that is too soft and has been ground to a very fine edge.
Tuskers are tough.
I see some of the broadheads being mentioned as tough, and that is a good thing usually. I have also personally seen some of those "tough" heads do very poorly on hard impact, in other words break on contact. Never saw that happen with the tuffheads, though.
I know there are many single bevel fans but they are a less supported edge than the double bevel- by design.
The single bevel needs to be quality tempered steel for the design not to fail.