Well I have my new string broke in. I did some bare shaft tuning and have a few questions. When I cant the bow, I get a arrow that shows it is stiff but when I shoot it vertical, they show perfect. I just shot a few groups with fletching (canted) and at 11 yards, I can pull all 4 arrows with one hand. I also shot the bare shaft with that group and it is right with the others but shows it is still too stiff. I added a little brace to the bow and am now at 7 5/8". It is a Bear Grizzly. Where would you go from here? Leave it, get new arrows, add more weight up front, shoot broadheads?
If the bare shaft is shooting right with the others, I think you should be good to go. I would try broadheads and see what they do.
Btw, I am primarily a paper tuner and not a bareshafter!
Bsich
It's your nock point making it appear stiff. Canting the bow gives different meanings for tuning. Your nock point may be a little high. I always hold the bow vertical for tuning, but normally shoot canted.
If bare shaft is hitting with fletch how is it showing stiff? I tune out to 25yds, ultimately how broadheads and field points group is most important if you plan on hunting. I have one style of broadhead that tunes weaker than field point of same weight.
Sounds like you may not be getting to full draw when canting, or may be putting torque on the string keeping your string hand vertical while canting bow. Let your string hand also 'cant'.
Good luck.
Adding point weight will soften spine.
They hit the same spot but the bare shaft is not in the target nice and straight like the fletched arrows. | = fletched arrow \\=bare shaft. All arrows can be pulled out with one hand.
Think about it this way.
The axis of the arrow is like this when you hold the bow vertical +
When you cant the bow it changes to this x
As long as your getting good flight, your good to go in my opinion.
Are you a righty and your BS are tail right? IMO that is quite stiff at 11 yards you need to back up farther. Things become more clear at 20 yards. I always shoot BS upright and fletched with normal cant.
I am a righty and my bare shafts tail right when I cant the bow but straight when I shoot it vertical. I am unable to shoot past 11 yards right now due to weather. -20 does not sound like great shooting weather. :)
When I shoot the fletched arrows they fly nice and I am grouping them together. I busted a nock tonight.
Quick look on the net and looks like brace for Bear Grizzly is recommended 7.5"-8.5"
http://www.3riversarchery.com/bear+58%26quot%3B+grizzly+recurve_i2085X_baseitem.html
So try upping brace a little at a time and see if that straightens out the bare shaft. My guess it will. As mentioned earlier reducing silencer mass or moving out to tips a little weakens spine, easy adjustment.
I would probably send some field point and broadhead shafts down range to see where I am.
I think you need to back up. In my opinion 15 yards is the minimum distance for bare shaft tuning, and that is only to make sure the bare shafts will be on the target. You start to get meaningful results at 20 yards, but 25 or even 30 is better. The further you are from the target, within reason, the better your results.
I tune my bow the way I shoot. I shoot with a slight cant to my bow (about 1:00-7:00) and also tune that way.
Thanks for the help. I shot again this morning. I added a little more to my brace and shot at my max distance of 11 yards and got a little stiff with 100 grain heads and a little weak with 125 grain heads. I am going to leave things be until I can get outside and shoot a little longer distances.
AAAHHHH now I see why only 11yds. You get that white frozen stuff way up there.
Double check nock point as it can change when adjusting brace. Good luck, hope spring comes early for you.
They closed school for tomorrow already. -58 wind chill tonight. Crazy.
Thanks for the reminder why I moved south. BBBRRRRRRRRR!