Just got a BITZ. When I put a feather in the clamp and tried to lay it on the arrow..I noticed something. The midsection of the quill does not touch the arrow,the ends do..not the middle. So..is this a matter of adjustment,cause I cant seem to find a spot where it touches from one end to the other. Any ideas why this is?
Which clamp are you using? I uses the helical clamps and you have to adjust them for the arrow diameter. If you have trouble call them. The bitz is made in MI by great people.
right wing helical,,and it says in the instructions that there is NO ADJUSTMENT on HELICAL CLAMPS
I've always had this problem. There are 2 adjustment knobs on your jig. They PIVOT the jig left and right. Put a feather in the clamp put an arrow in. Listen the Allen bolts and then rotate the knobs. You'll see it move on the shaft. Once you have it in place where it should be tighten the bolts back.
What Matty said. Once you set the clamp to the shaft diameter you may still have to run a knife blade down the quill to make sure the feather is resting on the shaft completely. I use the back side of my scalpel blade.
Another tip. Do not press the feather all the way in. Leave 1/16" of space between the quill and clamp.
ok,,well after seeing these responses,,then I have to conclude that there is no way to get it to lay right without some manipulation.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear Heart:
Another tip. Do not press the feather all the way in. Leave 1/16" of space between the quill and clamp.
Seems to be a pain in the butt to do that. Being the feather is curved,it gives me trouble getting it in the clamp without lots of pushing and pulling etc..have I mentioned I hate fletching arrows?
Another option is to file the clamps to the contour of the shaft. Go slowly, filing the contact point/points down and put the clamp back on the shaft often to check your progress. A small light shined on the backside of the clamp helps when you get close. I have one clamp filed to fit MFX/Axis skinny shafts and one for 11/32" wood which is all I shoot anymore. The aluminum clamps file down quite easily and if you check as you go you won't have any trouble.
I've always had to adjust for shaft diameter. The only thing I could think of your instructions might be refering to is my model has zero hash marks in the center of the adjustment range, with +/- being left/right)of the marks. Maybe it's referring to lining them both up at dead zero. I find my feathers feed into the clamp best by barely opening the jaws and sliding the leading edge into the back of the clamp while pushing the trailing edge of the quill and using the index finger to keep it flat against the quill. You can run your thumb and index fingernails between the quill and the clamp jaws along the full length after its inserted if you want it sticking out. I prefer mine flush. It gets easier with practice.
Yep, Matty has it figured out. It was a little frustrating at first until I figured out how to do it but now it's fairly easy to adjust. Once you get the clamp at the correct angle to match the radius of the shaft you are using, things work fine. Keep working with it. You'll get it.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear Heart:
Another tip. Do not press the feather all the way in. Leave 1/16" of space between the quill and clamp.
That's what I do too.
Adjusting the angle will get contact along the entire length of the fletch. I had much frustration getting the fletch into the clamp until I simply opened the clamp wide -- MAGIC!
Bitz is the gold standard for fletching jigs. I've been using them since 1975. I've been through two--I just lost my second one. I'll be buying another soon.
They can be frustrating if you jump around between shaft sizes. I've been there. But if you normally stick with one, it'll be alright.
For a R helical start with the top knob all the way to the right and the bottom one all the way to the left and work in slowly from there till you hit the sweet spot and the whole quill sits on the shaft
Denny
QuoteOriginally posted by Scattergun2570:
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear Heart:
Another tip. Do not press the feather all the way in. Leave 1/16" of space between the quill and clamp.
Seems to be a pain in the butt to do that. Being the feather is curved,it gives me trouble getting it in the clamp without lots of pushing and pulling etc..have I mentioned I hate fletching arrows? [/b]
If you run a straight edge down the clamp you'll see it does have a slight radius out to compensate for the shaft somehow. I'm not a mathematian to figure how but what I do is put my feather in the clamp and align it with my mark at the rear end and pull the quill out about 1/8" so when you put the clamp on the jig and press down the whole quill will settle down on the shaft.
There is a learning curve to fletching so maybe practice some more. The Bitz is a great jig.
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.
QuoteOriginally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.
Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge? Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting.
I must be lucky with mine used it for 20 years on wood, carbon, and aluminum and never had to adjust anything. Not even when I fletch my 23/64 and then 1/4 grandkids arrows.
I had the same problem when I first started using mine.
The more I used it, and adjusted on it, the better it became.
You can get the feather to lay flat with the right adjustment of the upper and lower knobs.
IMO it is well worth the learning curve.
Need to get it adjusted correctly. No need to modify the jig or clamp. Here's pics of my set up for LW helical on GoldTip 5575's. It takes some tweaking but once you find the right spot all is good. I would think just reverse the settings for RW.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/Yellowdog3822/P9110295.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/Yellowdog3822/P9110300.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e173/Yellowdog3822/P9110301.jpg)
X2 what Yellow Dog said. Once you figure it out, it works great. Been using mine for over 20 yrs
QuoteOriginally posted by Dog Walker:
QuoteOriginally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.
Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge? Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting. [/b]
Sanding AT the bevel, yes, not sanding OFF the bevel. First, check your clamp by laying it on a flat surface (as if you were setting it down onto a shaft). If you can see no light between the clamp and the flat surface then there is no need to sand the clamp. If there IS light showing, lightly sand, on a flat surface, (holding the clamp vertical) until there is no light showing. You may have to re-establish the knife-edge bevel with a file. Sanding your clamp won't ruin it (at least it didn't mine).
(http://i.imgur.com/YoXPn1Q.jpg)
In this pic. the bevel is still there all the way across the edge of the clamp, it just doesn't show because of the way the clamp twists.
Once you get it set up correctly you can go from skinny carbons to big fat aluminum's without having to touch a thing. It's all about getting it set up to the centerline of the shaft.
QuoteOriginally posted by iohkus:
QuoteOriginally posted by Dog Walker:
QuoteOriginally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.
Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge? Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting. [/b]
Sanding AT the bevel, yes, not sanding OFF the bevel. First, check your clamp by laying it on a flat surface (as if you were setting it down onto a shaft). If you can see no light between the clamp and the flat surface then there is no need to sand the clamp. If there IS light showing, lightly sand, on a flat surface, (holding the clamp vertical) until there is no light showing. You may have to re-establish the knife-edge bevel with a file. Sanding your clamp won't ruin it (at least it didn't mine).
(http://i.imgur.com/YoXPn1Q.jpg)
In this pic. the bevel is still there all the way across the edge of the clamp, it just doesn't show because of the way the clamp twists. [/b]
Look at it this way, you're not setting your clamp onto a surface that has a hump or dip in it, but onto a straight flat surface.
Sorry about the double post. :knothead:
QuoteOriginally posted by longstiks:
For a R helical start with the top knob all the way to the right and the bottom one all the way to the left and work in slowly from there till you hit the sweet spot and the whole quill sits on the shaft
Denny
Are we saying that I can achieve this with the quill flush against the clamp?
QuoteOriginally posted by iohkus:
QuoteOriginally posted by Dog Walker:
QuoteOriginally posted by iohkus:
I've used a Bitz. for a lot of years, and until recently always had problems with getting the feathers to lay flush on the shaft - UNTILL I tried this suggestion from a fellow trad shooter.
Flat sand the edge of the clamp so a straight edge WILL lay flat against it. After doing so, all the other adjustments that can be made are SO more meaningful and adequate.
Do you mean sanding off the bevel edge? Got a picture for us? Sounds interesting. [/b]
Sanding AT the bevel, yes, not sanding OFF the bevel. First, check your clamp by laying it on a flat surface (as if you were setting it down onto a shaft). If you can see no light between the clamp and the flat surface then there is no need to sand the clamp. If there IS light showing, lightly sand, on a flat surface, (holding the clamp vertical) until there is no light showing. You may have to re-establish the knife-edge bevel with a file. Sanding your clamp won't ruin it (at least it didn't mine).
(http://i.imgur.com/YoXPn1Q.jpg)
In this pic. the bevel is still there all the way across the edge of the clamp, it just doesn't show because of the way the clamp twists. [/b]
seems crazy to have to modify the clamp like that. and yes there is light under the clamp when I put it on a flat surface,,calling Bitzenberger tomorrow to see what the deal is.
Thanks iohkus. Funny, owned Bitz's for 40 years but never thought to do that. I will check my clamps later today. Makes perfect sense, tho.
This is how I got my bitz's to all fletch alike. Set clamp so it makes contact with shaft. Install feather, make sure there are no gaps. After you have fletched arrow and all looks good, I take a scrap piece of that particular size arrow,wrap with masking tape and scribe a line along clamp,keep for future use. As you do different size arrows and make adjustments do the same with them.