Just curious what others' preferences are for the length of the riser on a 1 or 2 piece d/r/ LB. I like the look and feel of a shorter riser and slimmer profile. I'm not familiar enough with how it impacts the feel of the bow and it's performance though. I'd like to hear others thoughts on riser length.
I should say that I like a 60-62" overall length d/r LB.
I do not know how it impacts performance either, but I prefer a longer riser with a bigger sight window. I fell like I can see past the bow better with the bigger sight window.
Any word on your move down this way; if it is going to happen or not?
Bisch
I like the look and feel of the shorter but, for example, when I shot the blue ridge SR and LR I shot the LR better and found it had less shock. I don't think I noticed the site window difference. Now that's a 3 piece and who knows how my form etc. affected it. I know that's the LR is the one you prefer.
Deflex/reflex covers a lot of area in bow design, but in a mild D/R bow, a 16-18" riser is the norm. I used 16 in mine and I think that is what my Robertson and Great Northern are.
Whatever my Kanati is. It's at my cabin at the moment or I'd measure it for you. Mine is 58", but Jason makes a 60" as well. It is fast, quiet, accurate, and absolutely dead in the hand. I've owned and/or shot several Kanatis and all had these qualities. Maybe Jason will chime in as to the actual length of his risers.
16" ,18" is most common for TD bows. But the 20" on a one piece with real long slender fades is nice.
What's the impact of the riser length on the bow functioning given the same overall length. Example, a 62" bow with a 16 vs 20" riser section?
Does it tend to be a specific length riser or a ratio of length of riser to overall length?
I just measured my big Jim buff which is 64" overall length and the riser is around 16" fade out to fade out, the 67" TC is around 10". Now the TC is more of a handle forward extreme d/r than the buff so I'm not sure how that works into the equation.
I like a 20 to 22 inch riser for the longer lengths, 16 to 18 for the 58s through 60. I also like to add a taper or power lam extension of several inches past the riser fades. This not only feathers out any hinging effect but it also shortens the working area of the limb. You have to do it right for each length of draw and bow length so that you get no stack but max performance at the specific draw. You can only get this by experience or from someone that has been there and done that.
God bless, Steve
My 66" three piece longbow has a 19" riser. Is it the best? Don't know but I shoot it better than most bows.
For RD bows I use the following lengths;
62" ~ 15"
64" ~ 17"
66" ~ 19"
68" ~ 21"
I like long fade outs, especially for the longer bows. It's my experience that the additional length helps tone down the hand shock/vibration and the added weight doesn't hurt either. This formula also keeps the working limb the same in different length bows. Hope this helps.
Merry Christmas to all.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Just as Kirk and Steve imply the bowyer is the best person to create an effective balance between riser length and working limb length...I just pick a bowyer who I trust and can talk to...why would I profess to understand more in that regard than a competent bowyer
DDave
My 66" three piece longbow has a 19" riser. Is it the best? Don't know but I shoot it better than most bows.
QuoteOriginally posted by TexasStick81:
What's the impact of the riser length on the bow functioning given the same overall length. Example, a 62" bow with a 16 vs 20" riser section?
Does it tend to be a specific length riser or a ratio of length of riser to overall length?
different limb designs will dictate exactly how much impact the 4" riser length will have on the bow. Typically if you have a 20" riser with 2" sorter limbs on a 62" bow, it isn't going to draw near as far with out stacking up as the shorter riser with long limbs would. You are changing the length of the working limb too much.
There are ways you can mitigate those results too by changing the pad angle of the riser, or shifting the taper rates in the core of the limbs. But sometimes messing with that can really effect the overall performance of the bow.
There are quite a few limb designs that need to be left alone. And using different riser lengths for different length bows is the only way to go. Even doing this you'll often find quite a bit of difference overall feel of the draw and performance depending on draw length.
Bottom line is you should to talk to your bowyer and ask him what he recommends.
15" for 62" longbow and 16" for 64"