As we al know, bows come with different center-cut options. It varies from not cut at all, as we see with some longbows,till extremely deep cut, i.e. some models from Border, which are cut as deep as 5/16 past center.
I understand that different center-cuts, asks for stiffer or weaker spine for your arrows, how more cut past center, the stiffer arrow you need for your bow.
But, what makes a bowyer determine how much center cut a bow becomes?
Are there any advantages/ disadvantages?
Only thing I can think of is that a bow which is cut past center, will need stiffer arrows. This might give you a faster recovery from the arrow thus a straighter flight. Also because you shoot the arrow more trough the center of the bow.
I can also imagine that bows with narrow risers can't be cut to deep, otherwise the riser might become to weak and eventually crack.
Will you affect the bow in a negative way, when you build out the strike plate from, let's say, 3/16 past center to center cut? So using a strikeplate from 3/16 thickness in order to get it tuned to your arrows?
Anyone has ideas about my questions?
Opinions and comments from bowyers are highly appreciated!
But from hardcore bow-tuners also... :)
I'm certainly no expert, but it sounds like you're on the right track. It would be a consideration to discuss with a bowyer if I shot skinny carbons or large diameter woodies, as I think most would optimize that dimension for your style/preferences. Long bows and recurves may differ, I shoot RC's and mine are 3/16ths past center. Also, you can build out the shelf, not as many options the other way.
Agree with your thoughts. ILF, metal and wood, risers are cut way past center to allow for use of a plunger so I see no ill effects the the bow. Will be interested to hear bowyers responses as why some are cut the amount they are. Just a thought but less center cut to allow for a stronger riser without needing reinforcing materials in riser.
One advantage to having a deeply cut center is that you can build it out if you like. Hard to do the reverse.
Dutchman: You've got the cause and effect correct. It's a matter of picking out what you most like to work with. I have bows cut proud of center, to center and past center. For me, it's easiest to tune an arrow (woody) to bows cut proud of or to center. Either need more spine, or need to build out the side plate on those cut far past center. Just seems to take me a few more steps/a little longer to get the best tune with a bow cut 3/16 or more past center.
From a bowyer's perspective it's simple: a sight window that's cut 3/16" past center will shoot a wider variety of arrow spines. We don't want our customers to have a difficult time finding just the perfect arrow to shoot from our bows.
With a sight window cut well past center an archer can tune his bow to his arrows (by altering the thickness of the strike plate material) without the kabuki dance of having to find the perfectly spined arrow to mate up with the bow. If a bow isn't cut to center it's CRITICAL to perfectly match arrow length, point weight, and arrow spine to that specific bow being held and drawn by that specific archer.
Personally I prefer aluminum risers that are cut far enough past center to enable me to use an elevated rest - another advantage of cutting risers well past center.
The only good reason to not cut a bow well past center is if the riser is so small or inadequately strengthened with fiberglass or carbon that breaking is a possibility. The weakest point in a riser is where the sight window intersects the arrow shelf.
I kind of use my arrow when I shoot, that is I can tell where it is at. I cant the bow. When I shoot a bow that is cut past center from my usual 1/8" out from center bows, the arrow flies to the bow side of the shot, I shoot right and left handed and this happens to me with either one. I would bet that if I only shot bows that were cut past center, something would change in my form until that arrow was directly under the target and the shot stayed in the sight line just like it does with my standard 1/8" out bows. However, then the 1/8" out bows would seem like they pushed arrows away from the sight line. When I shoot my past center recurve, at first the arrow looks off line, but I know that it is on target. I like how it can handle stiffer arrows, so I deal with it. The only real problem is that aiming gets more confusing when I need to roll the bow way over and still be on target, so I avoid varying the cant with my recurve.
I agree with what John says above. I've been shooting sticks for so long, nearly 60 years, that it's pretty easy for me to select the perfect spine, weight, length, etc., arrow for bows cut proud of and to center because that's what I've shot most of my life. I just need to do a little tinkering with those cut past center, but there, too, I'm beginning to commit to memory what works and what doesn't. Easton Axis sure do shoot good out of my ACS cut 3/16 past center.
I just ordered a dual shelf bow because I shoot both right and left handed...I know the trade off will be more effort required to get properly matched arrows...I think it is worth it for this particular application...I also have a Hoyt Desperado that I will set up with a wire rest and plunger for longer, more precise shooting...I hunt a variety of game in a variety of situations so I like my bows to reflect that...the key for me is the practice time I will put in with each bow before I take them hunting
DDave
I was very tempted to get a dual shelf longbow, I shoot both ways. The dual cuts that I have seen have as much of sight window as Howard Hill's bows had. I find it very easy to adapt to bows that are cut with a minimum window for taking vaired shot at different bow angles. The owner of the one that I looked at said that he had to drop his spines down 5 pounds with cedar shafts compared to his same weight standard longbow, but after that it shot the same.
QuoteOriginally posted by John Havard:
From a bowyer's perspective it's simple: a sight window that's cut 3/16" past center will shoot a wider variety of arrow spines.
This works very well for me and it seems to make the bow more adaptable to a stiffer spined arrow which are stronger. :thumbsup:
OK Guys, keep it coming....
Any more thoughts???