Several weeks ago I contacted Bohning Archery to express my dissatisfaction that the original Fletch-Tite adhesive had been discontinued. I was unhappy because I use aluminum shafts for some of my bows, and I found that Fletch-Tite Platinum did not adhere to aluminum as well as the old formula. Bohning replied to me that Fletch-Tite Platinum had been reformulated to better adhere to aluminum shafts, and they sent me a tube to try. I have fletched several arrows with the new formula, and must say that it works well on both aluminum and carbon shafts with both feathers and vanes. This is a plus for me since I shoot both carbon and aluminum. It is also more economical than some of the other glues I have used, and I like the tube applicators. Thought some of you guys would like to know this.
Too late. I've switched to something else for the rare times when I fletch on aluminum shaft.
Having one set of arrows come back to me with the feathers falling off was one too many.
Guy
QuoteOriginally posted by Grey Taylor:
Too late. I've switched to something else for the rare times when I fletch on aluminum shaft.
Having one set of arrows come back to me with the feathers falling off was one too many.
Guy
Undoubtedly some others have made a switch. I was a little on edge myself when I contacted Bohning. Like you, I don't fletch a lot of aluminum arrows which is the very reason I like being able to use one adhesive for both carbon and aluminum. Virtually every type of glue I know of goes bad with time. Just tossed some polyurethane Gorilla glue today that had hardly been used.
I hope the new formula does not change how well it worked on carbons, because it did a GREAT job on them!
I do not know if my tube is the new or old but I just fletched a dozen Beman MAX 4 shafts with the Platinum and had a few feathers come off rather easily .. I have never had a problem like this before but this was the first time fletching Bemans and I have never had to clean a shaft either, maybe these needed a cleaning first ?
I lucked out and got into a stash of the old white tube stuff...there is still some around
DDave
bonebuster I have not had very good bond with the platinum on carbon unless I use a wrap. I clean the shafts with Acetone and the feathers I give a little sanding and wipe with Acetone. I switched to Carbonbond and it works better. What do you do to prep when using Platinum?
I went to fletch my carbons last week and they peeled off! I prepped them like I always did. My tube is about a month old. What do I use now?!
This is scaring me! I always use platinum and have never had any issues on my Gold Tips! I'll have to be watching them now, I guess.
Bisch
When Platinum first came out, there were quite a few posts on Tradgang expressing dissatisfaction with the way it was holding. There were some other posts, including mine, whose experience was the opposite. My experience has continued to be good with Platinum on carbons since then. There have been times when I have shot an arrow into the brush and had the feathers rip off and the quill stay glued on.
I wish I knew what to tell people who are having trouble with it. I have been through several tubes since the stuff came out, and haven't noticed any differences from tube to tube. I don't prep the surface of the carbon shaft; I just clamp the feather and glue it on.
I have had good results using it on all types of Easton aluminum shafts too, except for the blue Jazz shafts, which are their low end shafts that I use for the classes I teach. The first time I fletched up a bunch of arrows using Platinum on the Jazz shafts, the feathers all fell off like leaves falling from the trees in the fall. My students were running around picking them up off the ground. I assume there must be some difference on the finish used on those shafts. After that, I have been sanding the Jazz shafts and wiping them with alcohol, and the feathers seem to stick okay.
I just threw 3 tubes of the Fletch-Tite Platinum away.
I was having the same problem and a guy at a 3D shoot told me to use Loctite gel super glue. It works great and I have not had a feather come off since.
The only problem is it comes encased in Black and Blue plastic case and with my arthritis I have a hard time squeezing the glue out. So I started cutting the casing off so you can just squeeze the tube instead.
That's good to hear that the new formula is working for ya.
I mostly use the Bohning fletching tape for feathers and aluminum shafts.
I have used and agree with bofish about the Loctite Gel. :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by habujohn:
[QB] bonebuster I have not had very good bond with the platinum on carbon unless I use a wrap.
Bingo!
I've been using Duco on my GT's all year and haven't lost a single feather. And it only costs $3.......
When they changed the formula it was terrible. Glad they upgraded it.
3X on using wraps.
I had problems myself using the platinum on some arrows even though i used alcohol to clean them. I use wraps on everything now with no problems.
I haven't fletched a 'naked' carbon or aluminum in many years. All of my shafts get a paint or clear fletch-lac crown dip. Fletch-Tite Platinum has worked perfectly for me. A crown-dipped shaft fletched using Platinum results in feathers bonded so strongly I can't get them to come loose without using a blade. I've never had a loose fletch.
X2 what Kevin said
I am attaching a link to a photo I took of the old and new tubes. The difference is subtle, but different all the same. The first tube is what I previously had on hand. The tube on the left is the new one that Bohning sent me. Ironically, the old tube says it will work on aluminum and the new one does not mention aluminum. It would be good for Bohning to clarify the situation. Once more, I found the new formula definitely performed better for me on aluminum than the old formula, and just as good on carbon. Another advantage to this formula is that it is a little more fluid that the original (white tube) Fletch-Tite, making it easier to apply.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n497/Raptor327/Fletch-Tite.jpg) (http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/Raptor327/media/Fletch-Tite.jpg.html)
Outrigger...
Did you get confused on which was which? Your picture contradicts what you said just a little ;)
Same as many above. I use wraps on both carb's and aluminums, and haven't had any problems.
Can you say NPV ? Works great on every kind of arrow. :thumbsup:
I used Fletching Tape for fletching my Carbons, so no problem there. But I used Fletch-Tite Platinum to glue the nocks on, and they kept coming off.
I switched to Saunders Archery NPV glue last month for the nocks, and it worked really well.
Note: I always clean the aluminum nock insert and the inside of the nock with alcohol.
Outrigger. Dan is right. You just contradicted yourself there. Did you mean to say that the "new" tube is on the "right" side and that it doesn't list aluminum on the label? Let me know because I have an unopened tube that matches the one on the left that I bought about a year ago. Thanks.
A LONG time ago I quit cleaning shafts with ANY kind of solvent...I have used very fine sandpaper and lightly sand the bonding surfaces, then wipe them surface with a dry paper towel that has never had contact with my hands...also, when the feather is in the clamp, I lightly stroke each one with the same fine paper.
I NEVER have a problem with adhesion...and I mean NEVER.
If I use a wrap, I do not sand them, BUT I do sand the quill on the feather very lightly.
QuoteOriginally posted by Outrigger:
QuoteOriginally posted by Outrigger:
QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Adair:
Outrigger...
Did you get confused on which was which? Your picture contradicts what you said just a little ;)
No, I did not get confused on which was which, rather I misworded part of it. As I previously typed, the first tube is what I previously had on hand. Where I previously typed that the "tube on the left" is the new one that Bohning sent me, I should have typed "the tube on the right". In other words, the second tube (reading from left to right)is the new one. Thanks for pointing out the error. [/b]
[/b]
I go way back with FletchTite and am astounded that an adhesive of such strength and durability would be reformulated only to provide such spotty dependability.
Reminds me of the "new" Coke. It's like, "you're kidding right?"
I switched to NPV and am getting excellent adhesion on multiple surfaces.
all my arrows get wraps, and I use fletch tape on feathers and superglue gel on vanes. I can fetch a full dozen shafts in minutes.
(after the feathers are stuck on with tape I run a very thin bead of duco down he side of the quill to prevent any 'roll'.)
the major bonus to wraps is...if the feathers get damaged from shooting/wear/etc...you don't need to cut/scrape/risk damaging shafts....just run the wrap under hot tap water and they will peel off with a little effort.
Just a footnote on fletching aluminum shafts... in the beginning aluminum shaft had no finish except that they were highly polished. They were notorious for being challenging to fletch to.
Most often I was taught to use a clean rag and scouring powder to clean the oxidation off the shaft. Depending on the grade of the shaft (how soft the aluminum was) You'd scour, rinse and scour until no black came off the shaft. Then you had to fletch immediately or the shaft would oxidize and the cleaning would have to be repeated.
When the shafts evolved to a hard anodized finish they only require removing oils and dirt from the surface of the shaft.
I've used a thorough wipe with Acetone. Rubbing hard until the shaft sings as you wipe it. After that a good fletching cement should bond forever.
You can also just wash them with paper towel and dishwashing detergent.
NVP says fast drying on the tube...how fast? as quick as the 'quick-set' super glues? If I could have an adhesive that would bone vanes AND feathers that would be nice...
Here's a little tid bit. Bohning archery co. grew up around the aluminum arrow shaft. The first paints were designed to "sheath" the shaft with a plastic formula and to be compatible with the cement they developed in parallel. Using FletchTite on Fletchlac painted shafts was the way to fletch an aluminum arrow and have the fleathers stay on.
The developement of hard anodizing to prevent oxidation issues made the paint unnecessary. FletchTite cement bonded to anodized shafts great.
After 20 yrs fletching my own arrows, the past dozen years using NPV, this year, I had a half dozen arrows lose feathers!!!
Carbon. Cleaned. Feathers sanded in the jig before application.
I'm hoping, after all those years, I just got a sucky batch of NPV.
the NVP dries and behaves very much like FletchTite.
I've never had a problem with Platinum, but I've always used it over a crown dip (Bohning white).