Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Cavscout9753 on November 26, 2013, 07:05:00 PM
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Hey folks, I'm usually more of a spectator here but I would like some advice from those who have had success with ground hunting. I know that the subject has been covered both directly and indirectly in a number of other threads, but I'd like to rehash a few pointers. I have a climber tree stand, but I'm not a fan. I've had luck from a stand in past years, though not with trad gear. I'd really like to learn to ground hunt better. I think its more suited to both my style of hunting ("just over that rise is probably a great spot") as well as the fact that I hunt on post so "hot spots" for a climber can either be taken or closed for the day, (post open certain areas based on training and other factors). I think I understand the basic mechanics of ground hunting - move slow, pick ambush spots, tuck into natural cover, reduce sillohuette (horrid spelling, mea culpa), set up off natural lines of drift, play the wind. My question is more in the art. I hunt hilly pines mixed with hardwoods, abundance of water, sandy soil, well... Ft benning georgia. Is there any tips I can try that would ensure decent odds? I get enough gun-play at work so I refuse to hunt with one and compound bows bore me. I love to hunt and I love trad archery, the next step for me seems logically to climb out of the trees and really fuse with the woods. Thanks for any and all advice! Happy shooting!
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It sure sounds like you have the right idea. This is the first year I have really dedicated to deer hunting in a ground blind but I am a believer. I have had mature 130+ class bucks walk right by my Double bull Matrix and never look at the blind. Mid is in the open and no brush in at all. It really only took about a week before they ignored it. We have taken two great bucks out of the same blind. What I like it how it helps with the sent on the down wind side. I have had deer walk within 5' of the blind. The other great advantage is the great shot angle you get from vein at ground level. Just need to practice from the sitting position. I do shoot thru the mesh and wear all black from the waist up.
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A pop up bling has it's pros and cons.
They are good if you can leave them set up for a while. In your case doesn't sound feasible.
I prefer to carry a ghillie suit in my back pack and a decent stool or one of the 360 degree chairs.
When I find a good spot I set up the chair and put on the ghillie.
Areas along edge cover or where the pines change to hardwoods would be a good choice.
Any type of funnel. Maybe near a creek crossing.
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The only way to get better at hunting on the ground is to hunt on the ground...this fall I still hunted exclusively...never shot anything...was within 15 yards of both a mule deer doe and a whitetail buck...with stand hunting you want lots of animals coming by to maximise your odds...when still hunting the fewer eyes, ears and nostrils the better...one sharp old mule deer doe busted me enough times I am thinking about shooting her with a rifle to take her out of the mix
DDave
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I'm interested in the same thing. I do hunt from the ground on occasion but I get busted by the deers' eyes more often that not. I drew back on a six-pointer early in the season this year while hunting from the ground without a blind and it was really a great rush! He was only about 10-12 yards away. I chose not to shoot because I knew there was a nice 10-pointer roaming the woods I hunt in.
I'm thinking about using a Ghillie Suit and really gettin' serious about the ground game next year.
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First we are talking 'spot and stalk' not blinds-right? Start with a more stalkable animal, and since you are in hog country locate and start with them. White tail deer will come much later.
I have found elk and hogs to tolerate a fair bit of stalking.
Look for really fresh sign wet pee patches, and steaming turds. Or just spot an animal using your binoculars. Hogs are generally in groups and the larger the group the poorer your chances. Don't look at them and don't walk at them. View them through peripheral vision and only move when heads are down or the animals are preoccupied with something else. Hogs may not see perfectly but they will spot movement in a hurry. Make sure you have studied the situation and have accounted for all the animals in the group. Ideally you are looking for a solitary animal or perhaps a pair-the larger the group the fewer your chances. Approach ridge tops very carefully or you will stand out like a sore thumb. Be super aware of the wind-they have a great nose. And lurk in shadows whenever possible. When you are coming in for the final approach have your bow up, arrow nocked and tension on the string you are almost hiding behind your bow and the only movement will be coming to full draw. Hogs are smart and they will humiliate you in their natural habitat but with practice and mentoring if you can find it, you will succeed. There are numerous threads on stalking hogs for you to search.
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For me, a ghillie and some sort of seat and I can hunt anywhere. I have had great luck using the ghillie suit. I can even hunt where there are no suitable trees and in fact, if I am allowed to dig a pit for my feet and legs, I can hunt in areas where there is almost no cover at all.
Find some reason for the animals to be funneled. Classic funnels are great, but smaller, not so obvious ones may be better. Then set up with the wind in mind and sit very still. Do not set up too close. Less than 10 yards is too close, unless it is VERY thick.
Move when they are distracted and you can do it.
ChuckC
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Lucas I've been increasing my time on the ground over the years and I'm of the feeling that success can be achieved if we just give it a decent chance. We all try it but quickly go back to a tree after only a few attempts if we haven't had a close encounter or get suddenly winded. The more time you spend on the ground the more you master the techniques you choose to try.
The disadvantage is limited view and and having to reduce your movement and finicky winds but that is countered a bit by being able to pick out those great spots that you always wanted to hunt but couldn't because the perfect tree wasn't in the right place . You also really need to make the effort to take out enough of that low vegetation to get you an unobstructed shot so a hand clippers becomes a necessary tool. The obstructions also occur while drawing and swinging the bow with the tips being free and clear as well as the arrow as you bring it up for the shot. It takes very little to foul up what seems the perfect setup. I got a buck this year on the ground while sitting in a Huntmore chair and as he came loping in I swang following the deer and then pulled as he stopped broadside. This is the shot that I took.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo306/bhaukom/Takingtheshot003.jpg) (http://s386.photobucket.com/user/bhaukom/media/Takingtheshot003.jpg.html)
And the very happy results that can't be measured when you pull it off on the ground using natural cover.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo306/bhaukom/Agoodday.jpg) (http://s386.photobucket.com/user/bhaukom/media/Agoodday.jpg.html)
Good luck on a great way to hunt and as you age you are set up for a whole lot of extra years of enjoyment without the problems that can occur up high.
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Ghillie suits are a lot of fun. Great way to get close to critters. Sometimes it is very easy to get busted on the draw!
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Wow, so much great advice from folks who have a ton of experience! I'm really excited to get out there on the ground now more than ever. The pig advice is excellent, and I actually do turn to running pigs when deer season ends here. Its the best time of year to find them (mid/late winter), and the thought of going after them always makes the end of deer season an easier pill to swallow. Taking one with my recurve will mean every bit as much to me as any other animal. I've been sitting here racking my brain for all of the many decent funnels that I know about but haven't hunted yet. Thats where I will start I think. I certainly think sit/stalk will open up a lot of options for me. I do have a good ghillie a buddy gave me that he used when he was doing some sniper work, perhaps I'll dust that off as well! Thanks again for all of the good pointers! I will probably employ them all at one time or another over the next few weeks.
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the ground game is as fun as it is frustrating.
But if you want a thrill its the ticket.
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I have never had trouble with getting close. it is usualy drawing the bow, how many time have I thought if I only had drawn before the shooting time
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I think your post says it al. Most ground hunters are afraid of treestands or can't sit still.
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Around here the Asian bush honeysuckle has taken over a lot of the woods. It is great for building a natural screen. In my second encounter this year(I'm new to TRAD hunting) the screen wasn't thick enough to allow me to draw and I got busted. I've always tried to build my blind on a bend in their travel route so the deer is looking ahead, around the bend, for trouble and not off the side(at me). I'm still hoping for an archery kill this year. The two close in meetings showed me that my ticker is working just fine.
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I recommend G. Fred Asbell's book on Stalking And Still Hunting. It is very good and offers lots of practical how to's and advice from experience.
http://www.gfredasbell.com/GFA_Books_Videos.php#Stalking_Stillhunting
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One thing that's helped me is I started carrying a walking stick this year. Not because I need it but it forces me to slow down,also having an extra contact point helps balance when your crossing limb tangles and what not. Cut my noise level in half. Don't know what kind of hills you have where you live but I hunt in the talledega n.f. Big hills but I can stalk on slopes that used to make me slip even put me in my back a time or two.
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Work the wind - as in into it or quartering. Minimize motion. Work slowly - some days I move ten feet in a minute or less if I suspect it's a bedding area. Take a step, scan the area, absorb it in, listen, take another step. Assume a deer will appear at all and any times and be ready (this is difficult as you cannot be 100% attentive for 100% of the time - at least I can't).
Learn to spot bits of deer. Ears, legs, the line of a back. Seldom will a deer just appear whole without it having ID'd you first and vamoosed. Usually you see some portions and that gives you the moment to prepare with it working toward you.
And, at that moment, you'd better have silenced as much of your kit as possible. A deer will question what it sees and verify danger, but a smell or noise and it bolts.
Finally, take the shot. If you are over-awed with a nearby deer or wait for the perfect opportunity you will wait a long time and lose many potential successes. Be ready to grab that first offering. Have practiced ahead of time a snap release as well as a longer hold and everything in between. Stump or small-game shooting gets you used to finding a window to pass the arrow through. That will pay off with deer.
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You have received a bunch of good info from the posts before me, so I will add; prepare to be busted, a lot. It goes with the territory when hunting whitetails from the ground.
The post about hunting hogs was a good one. They are easier to approach than deer and turkeys, at least in my limited experience with them. Hunting and stalking small game is another way to hone skills. I also try and stalk my dog in the back yard from time to time; good practice on being sneaky.
From one old Cav troop to a new breed, thanks for doing what you do, and "If you ain't Cav, you ain't, ---- "well, you know the rest of the saying.
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I have come close, but yet to be successful on the ground, so take this tip for what it is worth. Whether I am hunting, or scouting in spring, I always carry pruning shears and a folding saw. If I find a good funnel, or trail I often make a blind or two to take advantage of the area and wind. I have little "forts" all over the areas I hunt. make sure you build up the background cover, thick behind you helps cover movement more than thick in front.
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Originally posted by GrayRhino:
I recommend G. Fred Asbell's book on Stalking And Still Hunting. It is very good and offers lots of practical how to's and advice from experience.
http://www.gfredasbell.com/GFA_Books_Videos.php#Stalking_Stillhunting
I agree. my favorite book on the subject, and my best selling item.
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I agree with maineac on the back cover. I hunt mostly from the ground in both hardwood forests and scrub brush. Sometimes it's better to sit in front of a tree wider than your body than to put a blind in a bad spot or sit behind a bush that still shows your outline.
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This is really my first year hunting on the ground and I've had more fun than I've ever had in a tree. Big factors I've had are wind and getting drawn. I try to have a tree(or bush) on both sides of me to be able to get drawn. And as has been said, don't wait to long for the shot, you will get busted.
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You guys that hunt with Ghillie suits.....how much do you trim the burlap hanging off of the bow arm?
I have been messing with one, and use it gun hunting turkey's a lot. But The is just so much material dangling.....my bow shot angles are really restricted.
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My advice is to be a slave to the wind. Many treestand bow hunters and gun hunters can sometimes cheat the wind a little bit and sometimes a lot, depending on how variable the winds. Not so on the ground with traditional bows. For example, if winds are variable from the south, then you really have to stay out of any setup that doesn't have you on the north side of the trail. You're too close and at nose level, where swirling variable winds "pollutes" the whole area. Thermals will cause the same problems.
Other advice is, if hunting heavily pressured deer, you'll need far more cover around you than you think. I've hunted in Illinois and Texas with light pressure and could get away with sitting almost in the open. But in Michigan, where my family property is located, we have upwards of 20 deer hunters per mile. Even fawns will bust you if you don't have lots of cover.
If you put lots of cover infront and behind you, I suggest having little "windows" to see deer coming. I equate my style of ground hunting deer to that of pass shooting ducks. Ground hunting a trail in thick cover allows you good shots at very close range, but the shooting can be fast. Meaning, the deer suddenly show up, are walking down a trail and can be past you in a matter of seconds. Basically, the deer I've killed using this method had about 10-30 seconds from the time of sighting them to when the arrow was released. Fast shooting, but a productive method.
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I don't do it all the time, because I prefer to be in a tree due to the increased visibility but I have had luck with a Ghillie suit. I love the one made Marc Anthony. It's super lightweight, and was designed by a bowhunter for a bowhunter. Nothing interferes with your bowstring. I have found that face paint or a face mask is very important on the ground. I use face paint most of the time and I completely cover my face. Not just a few streaks here and there. I use the cheap Halloween paint that you can buy anywhere. I cover any and all exposed skin, including that on my hands. I now prefer to be standing up rather than sitting on a stool. If I stand with my back against a tree that is at least as wide as my waist, deer will either walk right past without noticing, or they will glance my way and look at me but not see me. One flick of the tail and off they go. My buddy has killed the majority of his deer on the ground. A couple of years ago we were hunting in famed Pike County and he shot 2 Pope and Young bucks in 2 days on the ground in his Ghillie suit. Good stuff! I shot this one this season thinking it was a large doe. He only had one side of a deformed antler that I could not see but ended up weighing 198 pounds on the hoof.
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n132/jonsimoneau/0af944d563d5e9dfeb9ce443b6771cf4_zps5b0eefcf.jpg) (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/jonsimoneau/media/0af944d563d5e9dfeb9ce443b6771cf4_zps5b0eefcf.jpg.html)
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The Ghillie suit above is the one Marc Anthony designed. Notice there is nothing on the inside of my bow arm to interfere with the bowstring. This suit is also very lightweight and not too warm. Its a great setup and comes in the color you see here, as well as a spring green one. I'm going to get the spring green one because a lot of my areas are choked in honeysuckle and I feel the green one will blend in even better.
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Also about the face paint thing. In the picture above, I had already dragged the deer, washed my hands etc., and had sweated off some of the stuff on my face. But I now completely cover my face, and hands with the cheap Halloween paint. It has made a major difference for me.
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Buck fever is taken to a new level from the ground, it's a rush like no other to have a deer or any kind let alone old big daddy at eye level mere yards away.
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Your statement"....fuse with the woods." has all the ingredients for success.
Patience and timing are your friends... get to know and practice them.
Learn from your mistakes and do not expect that you won't repeat them once in a while.
God bless,Mudd
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Thanks everyone! Wife is finishing some shopping while I mind the boys and then I'm off. I've got the ghillie suit scent-drying, new yarn silencers on the string (I like to pull off little tufts of the yarn to check the wind and for $1.50 for a spool it cant be beat for hundreds of replacement silencers, haha). I have just the spot in mind. A hardwoods creek/scrub brush transition. The game trail runs along the border of the woods and brush until the creek and then turns into the woods to follow the creek. It has a lot of thick spots and then some good openings but no trees for a stand. If you got up past 10' I dont think I'd see much and the shot windows would be dodgy and few. Perfect to hone the ground skills a bit. Thanks for all of the help!
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If walking, go slow, then slow down
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Roger, I strip most everything off the bow arm.
Have gone as far as removing the bow arm sleeve.