Like the title says, how do u know when three blades are sharp? I have read that since the angles are different, they may not feel as sharp as a two blade. Is that true?
I file sharpen them and lightly strop them on leather. When they easily cut a rubber band or grab your thumbnail easily, they are sharp. Lots of folks say they need to have a polished edge, but I've always got good bloodtrails with mine.
When I'm done sharpening mine they will literally wipe the hair away on my leg or arm. That is when they are sharp enough (for me).
I felt the same way for a long time. Even killed a deer with a Woodsman that really didn't feel very sharp to my finger. Then I carefully read the directions to the Truangle Snuffer Broadhead kit, and decided to do exactly what they said. The problem is, I couldn't imagine going from a file to a strop and having the thing come out razor sharp. But if you carefully follow their directions, that's exactly what happens. Try it; you won't have any doubt when it zips hairs off your arm.
Brings up the next question: are there different types of arm hair, because mine catch in my thumb nail easy, but just grab at my hair and it's painful to shave with them, but it would do it
It almost seems if a really sharp head will not feel sharp to the touch. They are however so use caution! It will however shave hair with little effort. I have always felt if they shave hair they are sharp. I use a file then a diamond sharpner to get them to the shaving stage.
My broadheads HAVE to shave hair. I'm weird about it. Kinda obsessed with it..lol..Here's what I do. I took two files and attached them to a board. Not at any angle or anything but just flat. I don't know if that's the "proper" angle or not but if not then it gets changed when I file it. I just run the head down the files on the board a few times. It doesn't take much before you can see the bur on each blade. I don't press hard. Then I take my diamond sharpener. Its just a simple one. Its got a coarse side and a fine side. Its just about 1.5" wide and 6" long I think Smiths makes it. Anyway I drag the head from back to front on the coarse side first 50 times on each side of the head, then 40, 30, 20, 15, 10, all the way down to 1. Then I flip the sharpener over and go through the same process on the fine side. Then strop on a piece of leather 50 times on each blade. I sounds like a long process but it really doesn't take that long and it will roll hair off my arm or leg. I've sharpened snuffers, regular woodsmans, woodsman elites, and some older 3 blades I had just to see how they would sharpen up. It worked on all of them. I'm sure there are better ways but that just seems to work for me.
if it is dragging your thumb nail it isn't really sharp yet when it gets there you cant feel it hang on a nail but you can tell when shaving
It catches on my thumb nail. The snuffers are sharper than I ever had them. Any alternate methods of testing sharpness besides hair shaving and the paper test
This is only the second year that I have used 3 blade broadheads that did not hae replaceable blades. Mine will not shave hair but I took 2 deer last year and three so far this year and the blood trails from my VPA's have been awsome and all deer have fallen within 60 yards. Proof is in the pudding.
shaving sharp WW orginals here. grobet file, diamond stone, croc stick.
someone asked for alternate testing....rubber band stretched over something so its moderately stretched, not taught with the sides about 3/4 inch apart. and almost let just the weight of the arrow only (no force) slide it between. if it pops right through the rubberband without slicing the band it may not cut arteries and just wedge them outta the way. if they are sharp they should slice right through the rubberband with little effort.
however...I've found that shaving is a better indicator.
folks...you can kill a deer with a field point, heck there was even a documented case of a guy grabbing the wrong arrow out of his quiver and killing an elk with a judo point. that doesn't mean you SHOULD hunt with them....shaving sharp is peace of mind. :)
you KNOW a 3 blade is sharp when you pop new blades into a thunderhead or screw a new cap onto a razorcap.
Snuffers - woodsmans - and the copies of those 2 heads ??? you tell me - lots of guys have decent luck lots a guys don't. I would feel better about it if more guys could sharpen them to equal a thunderhead or "Cap" - and as mentioned here following directions helps. The only 2 people I have seen sharpen the trad style 3 blades in camp sharp enough for me are Gene Wensel and Phil Muller - both have that "touch" that makes these heads deadly in (in the right hands)
I like to do the front half 2 blades at a time sideways and the back half w a gadget the way Terry Green works 4 blades - this is a deadly sharp and deadly sturdy way to work snuffers and woosmans and puts an amazing amount of sign on the ground for trailing and recovery.
This method gives you an angle on the back half that is more desirable - my opinion - for shaving sharp at the hit - front half does not need to be as sharp and is your punch to start the entry.
Just some thoughts - if you want to try this and have questions - contact me.
Good Sharpening<><
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I have no problem getting my VPA 300s and 300 extrems hair popping scary sharp. A few passes on diamond hones, light pressure is the key.
I just take a file to my snuffers and my bald arms and calves tell me they're sharp enough.
I test the sharpness by cutting through a cinder block. Learned it from a tv infomercial.
Concerning WWs, I would guess about half say they can't get them sharp, and the other half say they're easy to sharpen.
I switched to the WW when Gene was selling them. By following the directions on his website, I never had a problem getting them scary sharp.
According to Gene, the first thing to do was change the angle of the blade by using a 16" Nicholson file. Then using a 10" file to get it sharp. I never went beyond that (stropping etc.) because I could shave my arm hair easily.
I'm talking about the original WWs. If you don't change the factory angle, you don't have a chance.
With proper technique, a 3 blade will be as sharp as a 2 blade. BowhunterGA just posted a how to on sharpening on page one. Good videos if you need some more info.
I use a file, then to a extra fine Hand held diamond blade and when using the diamond I lay it flat across two edges at the same time but I have it so flat it feels like its just sliding across the edges,, you should feel no filing sensation at this part its only smoothign down the tool marks from the file and preparing the edge for the strop..
3rd I have seude leather that is glued to a flat yardstick about a foot long,, I use this to strop the blades but instead of how I did it with the diamond blade I now lift up on the strop so I'm angling INTO the edge of each blade just a tad (as if it was a single blade broadhead) and then bare down just a little bit so it feels like your trying to curl that edge a bit,,,,, do it about 10 to 20 times while easing up on the pressure each stroke to almost no pressure at all on the last stroke and after you do the other sides of the edges (unless your making a single bevel 3-blade) that broadhead will be ultra sharp.
its my way I guess but it works perfect,,,, if you DON't have the razor sharp edge then you need to start over and re-file the edge until it feels factory to file sharp with the file.
just using a file works great too but its a different technique and the most important thing is you need a really good file,, most people I helped here locally had dull files and didn't know it.