I'm not sure why I was so determined to shoot parallel carbons this year. I spent a few hundred $ trying to get the best flight arrow weight combo. I guess I thought I was missing something because so many people use them. I got a pretty good set up, killed 2 deer. Awesome killing combination.
They always seemed so sensitive to the release and produced too many frustrated practice sessions even when arrow flight showed correct. I must have a hundred different inserts and points laying around from fussing with them.
I tried my old Arrow Dynamics black carbons this weekend just to play around. It was the first time I ever shot them from the new Black Widow PCH I got in the spring. I was really surprised how much easier they are to shoot. It is really noticeable. And how tight they group. I just went out and tried it again and robin hooded a perfectly good Arrow Dynamic shaft!
Plus it seems like the flight and point of impact is identical to a tapered wood shaft out to 20 yards or so. So I could switch back and forth easily.
There must be something about my shooting that just doesn't do well with parallel carbons. Honestly I am sure I can shoot better with wood shafts.
I'm gonna order some more Arrow Dynamics Trad black. I do have some wood grain AD, the black ones make the perfect weight shaft for me.
Good shooting my friend glad you got some good results I have heard good things with AD!!
what is a parallel carbon arrow?
QuoteOriginally posted by Gen273:
what is a parallel carbon arrow?
A shaft that does not taper. The sides of the shaft are "parallel" to each other.
Gen273, Arrow Dynamics and Grizzly Sticks are tapered. All other carbon shafts are parallel.
QuoteOriginally posted by Tedd:
Gen273, Arrow Dynamics and Grizzly Sticks are tapered. All other carbon shafts are parallel.
do the tapered carbons fly better? I am literally brand new to traditional and am looking to figure out a good arrow to try out. I will probably go carbon...do you think the arrow dynamics would be a good choice for a recurve? 60@28...probably shooting about a 28 inch draw, and still no clue as to what grain per inch or head weight...any good starting point and arrow info would be greatly appreciated! thanks.
opposite for me. I have tried arrow dynamics and I can't get em to fly. ???? strange because I really like the idea of them.
Thanks for the info Guys, I learned something here.
QuoteOriginally posted by Gen273:
Thanks for the info Guys, I learned something here.
X's 2
Thank you!
God bless,Mudd
Tuning carbon arrows on traditional bows is a whole new way of doing that.I have found for me that if left alittle longer in tuning them they are more forgiving and not as sensitive.Carbon arrows are more sensitive to length then point weight in my experience.
You shoot better with woods and you're going to get more carbons??? Hmmm...
QuoteOriginally posted by Rick Moss:
QuoteOriginally posted by Tedd:
Gen273, Arrow Dynamics and Grizzly Sticks are tapered. All other carbon shafts are parallel.
do the tapered carbons fly better? I am literally brand new to traditional and am looking to figure out a good arrow to try out. I will probably go carbon...do you think the arrow dynamics would be a good choice for a recurve? 60@28...probably shooting about a 28 inch draw, and still no clue as to what grain per inch or head weight...any good starting point and arrow info would be greatly appreciated! thanks. [/b]
Rick, try some Arrow Dynamics, you won't be disappointed. I believe they are in the sponsor list, but if you google them an even better web site comes up.
Oregon Okie,
Please elaborate, which AD shafts are you trying and out of what bows and what is the draw weight of the bows? I have never had a bow I could not use an AD arrow on, most forgiving shaft I have ever used and is all I use now. Based on the bows you list in your signature line, an AD Hammerhead lite or AD Trad lite full length, if you truly draw 31" should be the ticket with 100 gr brass insert and 200-300 gr head.
Out of my 61# Cari-Bow Slynx longbow, AD trad or AD Hammerheads, 31.5" with 100 gr brass insert and 300 gr heads, my 55# Schafer revurves, AD Hammerhead lites, 31.5" with 100 gr brass insert and 300 gr heads. same out of my 52# Cari-Bow Silver Fox longbow. I can even shoot the AD Trads out of the lower weight bows. Also can shoot AD Nitro Stinger, Green, Gold and Orange out of them all.
Rick,
Tapered carbons fly better than parallel for me.
(for clarification tapered carbons fly best for me, followed by tapered wood, followed by parallel wood and lastly parallel carbon.)
Tedd
I had an identical problem, changing head wgt., insert wgt.,length, fletch......then I went to a much heavier spine and now it's awesome flight even if I change the weight up front. I can't shoot a poor flying arrow now.
QuoteOriginally posted by Don Stokes:
You shoot better with woods and you're going to get more carbons??? Hmmm...
my theory on this one is.... if you do alot of shooting and specifically stumping and your not the most selective on your targets (thats me im describing) the woods tend to add up in cost really quick due to breakages.
I shoot carbons because I can abuse them and they keep in kicking. My woodies dont last near as long.
Yeah, has to be something your bow/shooting style prefers. If that were the case for the masses parallel carbons wouldn't be in most carbon users quivers.
I had some trouble getting AD trad Lites to fly for me as well. The Trads fly fine in my current bows.
Just because I know someone will ask, the bows I tried to use them with was a 51 # Habu and a 50 # Morrison Shawnee. I tried them with the standard insert and the heavy brass inserts. I tried point weights from 125-200 gr with no luck. I know they are supposed to work in "any" bow, but sometimes you just have bad luck.
That said, if you tune your parallel carbons, they will shoot fine. I didn't believe in tuning early on, but I have seen the light. Each brand of shaft needs to be tuned to your bow to get the best flight results.