Until recently, I would have said "No". I've shot many bows 3-under and split-finger and the only difference was that I had to move the nocking point up a little when using 3-under. Now I have a longbow that just seems to prefer a 3-under draw. I have changed the nocking point between 1/8" high to 3/4" high when shooting split-fingered and the arrow always porpoises to one degree or another. Set the NP at 3/8", shoot 3-under, and the arrows zip straight into the target. So can anyone tell me if there really is such a thing as being tillered for 3-under?
Thanks,
John
Makes sense to me. My Great Plains recurve is tillered 3 under. Nock point is 3/8. To shoot split finger I would need 1/8 or less on nock point and it won't shoot good. I would say tillered normal or split you can shoot either way. Tillered 3 under you are stuck with 3 under.
There are very few bowyers that know how to make a true three under tiller that works the way it is supposed too.
Okay, so I've got a bow that I can't shoot split-finger? That's the way it seems so far.
John
Is it tillered for three-under or a fluke?
David, would you explain ??
I've always heard that a -0- tiller bow was correct for 3 under but have had bows with as much as 1/4" that I was able to get to shoot.
But, often I think I'm missing something on the tiller.. For instance on the DAS, I currently have it set at 0, it draws smoothly and shoots a clean arrow.. I have experminted with it from 1/8 negative to 3/16" positive.. Settled back in at 0.
Thanks,
Pat
I don't really understand three finger or split finger tiller. Don't get me wrong I understand the concept, but I just do not understand the reasoning behind it. I have not owned alot of different bows, but I have shot and messed around w/ many. So far I have been able to tune every bow, w/ correct arrow weight and spine to shoot as accurate as I see fit.
A bow tillered for 3-under will have more positive tiller, meaning the upper limb at brace height will be slightly weaker (bending more).
Think about what is happening. You place all three fingers below the nock and you cause the lower limb to bend more, than with 2-under and 1-above. this needs to be compensated for with tiller or your nock point will be much higher than normal. You are trying to get both limbs to be bent the same at full draw, so the energy is equally applied to the arrow from the limbs.
Of course raising the nock point does the same thing, but you will never get the arrow flight with an abnormally high nock point that you get with a normal one.
Bob
I was told by two dealers and one bowyer that the difference is slight and can be compensated for with a slightly higher nock point. I respect their opinions, but I have to say my experience with my Hunter 56 tillered for 3 Under makes me believe there is a difference.
My Hunter 56 likes a nock point of +3/8. Shoots much more smooth quiet than I was led to believe this model does. I shoot this bow off the shelf with feathers, BTW.
My other two CM's (a Hunter I and Hunter II) are tillered Split Finger but I shoot them 3 Under off T-300 rests, primarily with vanes. The Hunter I likes a nock point of +3/8, the Hunter II +4/8.
Both shoot well with a 3 Under Draw but I believe are a touch more noisy for it and not as smooth as they would be if shot Split Finger, IMO.
The H2 is known for it's smoothness but my H2, smooth as it is, truly isn't as smooth as my H56 tillered for my 3 Under draw...
What Bob said....Van
Thanks for all the input, everyone. ;)
John