Im new here but have been shooting arrows since age 6, im 51 now. pretty much self taught. I can tune and carve a osage long bow but have never done much tuning on recurves, I have a shakespere ocala, 50# @28,ive owned it since age 16 and hunted with it for a few years and then gave up on it. I could never get it dialed in with the arrows I have, they are Easton gamegetters 2016, I believe they are too soft of spine.
my left eye is dominant and I shoot left handed, the arrows group to the right, if I remember right that indicates too soft of spine.
any of you guys have experience with this set up??
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
LarryDawg :archer2:
If your lefty your arrows are stiff. Add more point weight.
If your arrows are grouping right of where you want to hit and you're shooting left handed then the arrow is too stiff.
It seems unlikely to me that a .500 spine arrow would be too stiff for a 50 pound bow...there are just a whole bunch of factors that you have left out...if adding more point weight fixes things I stand corrected...I doubt it will
DDave
Those should be the right shafts if your drawing 28". But like the above post we need details.
what throws me off is the Easton site arrow chart says 2016s are at low end of the chart but the arrow finder link says 2117s ?? I have a mess off wood arrows that go from 40-45# to 50-55 so im going to drag em out and go to Flinging them..
what kinda details do I need to include??
Thanks Larry
Your draw length, point weight and length of arrow will help...also check out the 3 Rivers spine calculator...it takes other variables into account
DDave
Have you tired bareshafting or shooting bareshaft along with fletched arrows to see where they group relative to the other?
ok, more info, im lefty, 29 in draw, broadheads and field tips weigh 125 grains.
3 rivers says 2016s. my buddy gave me 8 graphite arrows to try so that's next..
im going to take a few days and go to flinging arrows till I figure out what makes it shoot the best.
Larry
well the graphite arrows don't shoot well at all, they are old and I actually think they are fiberglass. ive tried all my arrows even found some 55-60 lb arrows from when I shot a heavier long bow 70lb osage bow.. ive changed my nocking point and played with brace heighth. but still cant dial it in?? im also tuning my new Bear Kodiak magnum it too is 50# at 28 in. and I draw 29 in. any other suggestions??
thanks
LarryDawg
I would try more point weight
Larrydawg,
IF you have eliminated all the obvious equipment issues (and it looks like you have -- and I agree, 2016s should be your shaft) then whatever is left over must be the problem.
Where are you anchoring at full draw?? IF you are drawing so that the arrow nock is beside your eye and not directly under your eye, your arrows will hit to the right for you (left handed). The farther you pull back to the side of your face, the farther to the right the arrows will go. Take a look at your form and execution and ONLY then worry about your spine or tune.
Arne
Arne
I draw back until my index finger solidly hangs up in the corner of my mouth. I shoot 1 over 2 under and focus on the "spot" as soon as I reach full draw
And focused on spot I release.
So I will practice today and concentrate on my form.
Thanks I will work on form and post results.
I have been shooting Osage bows and have hit a spider at 10 yards on a bet (yeS I have witnesses!!)
So I have some idea what I'm doing (my mom was competitive archer in late 50's) I'm just missing something simple.
Thanks again
Larrydawg
Sounds like you have plan -- good! I'd also suggest, when you practice today, to take note of where the string is in your vision at full draw. Try to get it so it is right in front of your eye, touching your glasses lens (if you wear them) or centered on your eyebrow.
It just doesn't take much to affect where your arrows land. Roughly, 1/8th inch deviation in your anchor position will be about 8 inches at 20 yards.
Arne
Leave it to Arne to cut to the heart of the matter.
I remember talking with Rob DiStefano about arrows for a longbow. He told me if my eye is directly over the arrow and I have a clean release, it will go where I'm pointing it; not to worry too much about exactly what point weight I had on the arrow.
I believe we love to fine tune our equipment because it is something finite we can work with and get our hands around. The guy pulling the trigger or releasing the arrow is still the dominant factor in accuracy. Once the technique is fine tuned, THEN we can work on the small, incremental improvements.
The primary concern should be getting your arrows to fly straight. If you follow the instructions for bare shaft testing, yes unfletched arrows hitting right of your fletched arrows would suggest they are too stiff. But if you're just shooting regular fletched arrows and they are grouping to the right; there is the real possibility that you just need to aim more to the left. I'd suggest either paper or bare shaft tuning with a test kit of various shaft sizes to find what works the best. Lots of factors involved, including your particular shooting style, how far you bow is cut from center (plus or minus) etc.. I'm not familiar with your Ocala, but I suspect it's cut a lot closer to; or beyond, center shot and will require a stiffer arrow than you are used to with those self bows. Hang in there, you'll find a solution! The great thing about shooting trad is once you're dialed in, you won't go out of tune because a set screw got loose or....
swamp yank when I get em all tuned in I will post pics of the the whole stable I think I have around 15 and two more osage bows in the works. I went to the Cherokee flatbow design because I never could get my Ocala to shoot well. now im about to retire (at least for a while!) from building bows and just shoot my recurves. ive owned the Ocala since I was 16 and never could get it to shoot well. the Kodiak is a Hammer and really slings them arrows. now for the record I owned a wheelie bow for a week, it was a Darton, I shot it a few times and it made me cringe. on top of that im a leftie and it was right handed. I gave it to my brother. he shot it till he broke the string and never picked up another bow.
I hate modern technology, I even gave up my cell phone as I hate being on call. my favorite ride is my 66 chevy,my 76 Harley FLH, and my vintage trials bike.
LarryDawg
ok this is another reply to arne.
I did start making sure my eye was centered over string and it brought my arrows over to near center of aiming point. thanks again for the coaching!!
Larrydawg
We are lucky to have Arne here...I refuse to offer any further advice once he has spoken, unlike some of the "experts" on another site
DDave
One thing that I have seen when guys went from recurves to longbows is that they did not cant the recurves the same. I would bet that going from osage selfbows to a center shot recurve that cant will change and that will change where your eye is relation to the arrow. You stated that you had trouble with the Ocala right from the start. Did you always have a right tendency, or is that new? The bow could have issues.
Yes it has always shot to the right. It's been to cold for me to do much tinkering with my recurves. Now before y'all call me a sissy I've been fighting bad head cold for a couple weeks and the high temp today was 18degrees. Now I'm going to go hit the WIHA 10 miles from me in the morning even though I have to put on some hunter Orange.
Arne reminded me to check alignment of string and my eye and that ended up being most of the problem and most likely why I had problems with the Ocala and my new Kodiak Magnum.
I've worn glasses for last 10 years and it had been over 15yrs. Since I dusted off the Ocala due to my addiction to the Cherokee flatbows I've been messing with since 2003.
Larrydawg