So bowyers have a recommended range for brace height but how do you go about finding the sweet spot? Do you start at the low end and work up? The upper end and work down? In the middle?
What makes it the "sweet spot"? I think I can feel or hear large differences but I'm curious if you have tricks for identifying the spot it shoots best at?
Start at the Highest Recommended, and go from there. Just my 2 cents. :archer:
Haha, I like having the max power stroke and smoothness I can get so I do opposite, start at lowest and work up adding twists as needed. LOL preferred brace height is a very personal thing.
Same thing I've always heard. Work from higher to lower.
Lowest brace without noise is desirable. Equals longest power stroke.
I can tell a difference if my brace height gets too low by more than about 1/4", but I don't notice much difference in shooting the bow if it's too high. I don't purposely set it too high, because I understand it reduces the performance of the bow, but I can't tell much difference in the way it shoots. In fact, I understand than some people who specialize in shooting at close distances, like indoor tournaments or leagues, will purposely set the brace height on the high side because they believe it increases their accuracy at short distances. I don't know if it really does increase short distance accuracy, but that's what I've heard.
Like Texas, I would like to be able to pinpoint my ideal brace height, but about all I've been able to do is to get it in a range that works.
As always, I enjoy hearing the feedback guys.
On recurves, I start by adjusting the string until I can see about 1/4" of string groove under it. As long as you get the string up and off the limbs it's a good place to start. No string silencers, etc., then, simply shoot and twist if up a few turns at a time, then back down. It won't take long to find the right spot.
I try mine on the lowest recommended setting and go up as needed. On my Widow it turns out best smack dab in the middle.
Jim, I should have mentioned they are longbows. Confusing I know given my handle but I stared with a recurve once upon a time then I discovered longbows and haven't gone back. Moral of the story, don't pick names that might not apply later:)
If you're getting a bit more vibration that desired is there a direction to go or is it possible that there is a sweet spot and being on either side of it might cause more vibration? Therefore it's uncertain if I should go up or down
if you are getting vibration and or hand shock usually go up a little at a time. works for me
x2 for starting at the highest recommended.
What do your bare shafts like best? Sometimes, arrow setup can determine the sweet spot.
Usually, I try to find where the bow shoots the smoothest and quietest, and tune my arrows to that brace. Sometimes, after the fact, I find that I may have to add or remove a few twists to get everything to feel and sound like I want. It's strictly a feel thing for me.
As you adjust brace height, you may also have to adjust your nock point.
I've found, generally speaking, that the lower the brace, the more string noise you get, and the higher the brace, the more ringing noise you get from your limbs (with a d/r or hybrid longbow). But each design is different. Go by what feels best when you shoot, and try a few different string/silencer combinations. It's amazing how a few small changes can alter the way a bow shoots/feels.
The tutorial I found that made the most sense said to set a target and shoot groups of 3 fletched and an occasional bare shaft with the point of the arrow consistently on that target. Work from low end to high end of manufacturer's recommendation, measuring/recording each group's impact along the way. Then go back to the chart and set your bow to the measurement that gave the highest point of impact. That setting is where your bow is transferring the greatest amount of it's energy to the shaft and therefore should give you the least noise and vibration or hand shock.
Shooting the occasional bare shaft insures that you're not getting false reading because of nock kicking off the shelf/rest as the nock point can change with brace height adjustment.