I had another T-ganger ask me what I did to my stands to make them more comfortable in "leaner" trees. We went back and fourth in the PM and realized he is a ladder stander and I use hang ons almost exclusively so we were not exactly on the same page. I thought this might be a topic that has not been covered as much as it could be and maybe we could help one and other. Especially in regards to long sit comfort and other additions or mods that make stands "better"?
The first mod here is an adjustable foot I put on some of my Gorilla stands to give me a little adjustment at the base of the stand to move it away from the tree on a forward leaner. I just drill holes, weld a couple nuts to the legs and fab up a slide in foot. With a couple bolts and a 1/2" box end I can move the base of the stand away from the tree until it is level. Works sweet.
The second is removing the cables and adding my own with turn buckles on both sides allowing me to adjust the stand for front or back leaners. I also upgrade to overkill cable and be sure to buy high end "overkill" turn buckles and set them about 1/2 way open when squaring up the stand so you have two way play.
Another option that would be a little heavy but super strong is to use chain in place of the cable with hooks on one end allowing one link at a time adjustability.
I also test, tighten and add vinyl washers to all my stands before the season as needed. I Hate squeaks!!
Add your suggestions and mods - lets see what your tricks are??
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh205/bushbow/a7f721a3-638e-4ec3-b8ec-e74f15f83a9e_zpse7bf77b0.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/bushbow/media/a7f721a3-638e-4ec3-b8ec-e74f15f83a9e_zpse7bf77b0.jpg.html)
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh205/bushbow/844c66aa-acc8-4e31-b89a-d93afbd4ce2a_zps1d609d69.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/bushbow/media/844c66aa-acc8-4e31-b89a-d93afbd4ce2a_zps1d609d69.jpg.html)
nice, overkill is fine in my book.
I chopped off the front bar of my Summit Viper right in front of the supports. It makes shooting a longbow out of it much easier. I really like the turn buckles that you used.
I built my lock on, I love it. I fabbed the seat out of a office chair and made the arm rest lower then normal for archery shots. I also added "overkill" support bars all the way to the front foot portion of the stand. Made extra teeth for the back so the stand could bite or grab the trees better.
Your stands look great
I make washers out of milk jug plastic to quiet moving joints like seats and platforms. I'll also adjust things to get rid of armrests. If sitting, I like to keep my bow in my lap and armrests really interfere with that.
On my Climber I use military pack straps. I think they are molle straps. Not the allice. They are absolutely amazing. And will change they way you think of your stand. The comfort level is like nothing u have felt and the precieved felt weight is like a burden off your shoulder.
Thanks for posting this. I am going to have to figure out something different for my ladder stands.
X2 on the Molle straps. I also replaced the seat on my Summit climber with a Hazmore net seat, a major improvement IMO.
I went to the local craft supply store and got strands of artificial foliage to tye-wrap to the frame of my loc-ons. I still try to hang in good surrounding cover, but figure every little bit helps. The deer have been educated to look up and I've had obvious stands busted before I ever hunted them!
Do you guys have any advice or tips on how to keep my pull up rope on my stand? I use a lone wolf Hand climber. And I try to be as fast n efficient as possible. By keeping it on my stand all time that self helps speed things up. Thanks
QuoteOriginally posted by RedShaft:
Do you guys have any advice or tips on how to keep my pull up rope on my stand? I use a lone wolf Hand climber. And I try to be as fast n efficient as possible. By keeping it on my stand all time that self helps speed things up. Thanks
I keep my rope rolled up & stuffed inside an old. aspirin bottle & then attached to the handclimber..keeps it nice & neat..when your walking through thick spots it doesn't get tangled in everthing..i've got picts somwere..
A picture is worth a 1000 words. Can someone post a pic of the Molle straps to which you are referring?
Thanks!
Bill
Wildman....I don't have pics of the Molle straps but you can type "Molle Staps for Treestand" in Google Images and get hundreds of pics. You can also see pics and buy them on the big auction site for $25 or so.
QuoteOriginally posted by DarkTimber:
Wildman....I don't have pics of the Molle straps but you can type "Molle Staps for Treestand" in Google Images and get hundreds of pics. You can also see pics and buy them on the big auction site for $25 or so.
Aaron,
Thanks!
Bill
Best thing I ever did to my old steel Summit Climber was to add the foot stirrups(like they come with now) and I changed out the bulky seat with a "fish net" type seat that is great. Oh, and I also added back pack straps that are two gun shoulder-straps mounted to the bottom for ease of carry.
Even though my Summit is the old steel model, it still only weighs around 27 pounds.
I used a Alice pack frame and cable tied it to my summit open shot . It's nice with the waist belt
Also use the Moelle shoulder & waist straps and the frame on my Lone Wolf. I simply zip tied the frame w/ straps to the stand and leave all attached while using. Works great!
I have one of the small retractable dog leashes on my climber for a pull rope works great always stays with stand >>>>------> ED
Added a Hazemore net seat to my Summit Vipers as well as felt pads from Lowes in between the top and bottom sections where they touch when packed together. The pads are cut to fit and self adhesive backed. Keeps them dead quiet when packing them in as well as when you are putting them back together when you pack up to leave. Change the heat shrink on my cables every two years to keep them quiet too. You can buy tubing off *bay cheap. Filled all the hollow tubing with expandable foam to deaden the Viper too. Side saddle bag on Viper has extra light, pull up rope, Gerber saw for limbing new trees.
On our hang ons we use, " The Claw " backpack straps to pack them in with. No more sliding straps and constantly having to pull them back up on your shoulders. Put a pair of QD gun sling swivels on the end of the straps fo quick on / off once you get the stand to where you are going. The QD swivels just lock into a hole in the expanded metal platform. Throw the el cheapo cushions that come with cheap hang on stands away and put Big Game or Gorilla brand 3" thick, soft, quiet cushions on them. You will thank me later.... !
Heading to fab shop this week to get some 3/16" plates cut 2" X 4" to bolt to the base of our hang ons where the cables attach. I will use the existing hole for the cable attach point and drill an additonal hole to bolt this 2" X 4" plate to the base of the stand. I will then drill a series of holes along the 4" length of this plate where it sticks up about 1" above the base of the platform. This will allow me to pick a hole to attach the cable to depending on the angle of the tree. I will use wingnuts on my attachment bolts so I can adjust in the field at the tree.
I will also buy a "Twisted Timber" brand stand for really oddball trees. It is a awesome product and I wish I could afford more of them and not be afraid to leave them out there for some dope to steal.... :banghead:
I just use high quality poly braided rope that you can weave back into itself for platform supports. Lightwt. and quiet. Adjustable for the platform.
This had been asked quite a few times about what to do with your pull up rope. I put a cheap plastic boat cleat on all my stands. The rope is right there wrapped up and I don't have to remember a rope. See photo
(http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq309/dnlnovo/9d7a7570-8131-4922-99d9-951d27d6f34e.jpg) (http://s458.photobucket.com/user/dnlnovo/media/9d7a7570-8131-4922-99d9-951d27d6f34e.jpg.html)
well the first one isn't really a modification but is a home made stand, that is made to hinge in the crotch of a tree. its great for hunting on the go or making a quick set up change.
(http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/Wkcook/0926111258_zpsb40fd63a.jpg) (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/Wkcook/media/0926111258_zpsb40fd63a.jpg.html)
not very big but very portable.
(http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/Wkcook/1106111602.jpg) (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/Wkcook/media/1106111602.jpg.html)
this summer my dad worked on transforming one of my ladder stands into another crotch stand. It has more area but is lighter than the originals and I can actually turn it back into a ladder stand just have to cover the spikes with a piece of plastic that I have.
(http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/Wkcook/20131018_205437_zpsa6cb4700.jpg) (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/Wkcook/media/20131018_205437_zpsa6cb4700.jpg.html)
Cookie, you are scaring me to death with those crotch stands....... :scared: Please be safe and wear a good harness all the time !!! Lots of horror stories on these type stands out there. Be safe my friend.
Always do, also its seems that this side of Kansas I'm usually not able to get into anything too high up either but still play it safe. Doesn't always take much to get hurt with a fall.
I closed my open shot(summit) and put a golf cart cup holder on it, as well as a buckle strap that secures it to the tree once I am up, attached it to the base platform, gave me some feeling of security in those slippry oaks.
When I hang my stand I always use a linemans belt. I made it from a hip belt from an old packframe. Since it started out as a hip belt I've adapted it to use as a hip belt for packing my stand and climbing sticks into the woods. It uses a couple of small D rings and small carabiners to clip to the stand. Sure takes the load off the shoulders.