I was wondering if anyone has had tapered woodies, and had to shorten the point taper to squarely seat in a Broadhead?
Thank you,
I have had to shorten some that i tapered with a pencil sharpener type taper tool.
Yeah, me too.
X3...
Just an eighth or so.
I like to fill my point tapers so I set my woodchuck to cut long and adjusted it back as needed to get it where I wanted it.
On a side note, there's a lot of heads like judo's etc that I cannot shoot without cutting more taper off to fit with my normal mindset of liking a longer taper on my shafts. I don't know why the industry hasn't come to some kind of agreement to ferrule dimensions so a guy could set up a taper tool and be done with it.
I don't use a pencil style anymore and haven't for years. I mainly use a woodchuck or a disc sander jig.
A quick question inserted tactfully if I may? I have access to all kinds of power/table tools at work. Can I buy a taper angle block and go to town?
I'm kinda tired of putting work into arrows and then regretting using a pencil sharpener style.
Yep!!
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/SANY0080.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/kennym/media/SANY0080.jpg.html)
With the stop right, you don't even have to trim the 1/8" :D
QuoteOriginally posted by wooddamon1:
A quick question inserted tactfully if I may? I have access to all kinds of power/table tools at work. Can I buy a taper angle block and go to town?
I'm kinda tired of putting work into arrows and then regretting using a pencil sharpener style.
3Rivers sells a little taper block that you can clamp to a sander.
wooddamon: If you have and know how to use power tools, it's a simple matter to make your own taper jigs. Just cut a 5 degree and 11 degree taper in two pieces of plywood. Start with pieces about 10 inches long and 4 inches wide. Put a stop block on the ends. Put a sanding disk on your table saw and put the appropriate jig against the fence and with a little adjusting of the fence, you're ready to go. Good luck.
slick Kenny!
Can you get a shoulder with that jig?
You can use a piece of molding to do the same thing, really doesnt need to be anything fancy (and it will save some $).
Thanks guys! I'm making one soon...
dunno if you picked up on the shouldering remark WD, but if you can get (make) one do it! Its on the big end of the taper so you run the shaft just slightly past the edge of the sander. It leaves a small lip that if the taper/length is right will butt right up to the back of the head (field point or bh). You'll be amazed at how perfect arrows spine, no fiddle farting around with getting things right...and it's clean! The lip is slightly smaller than the thicknes of the back edge of a pdp head. I like it when the heads hit this and you need to twist it on slightly. If its too tight you'll likely burn it on. Take another pass on the jig without adjusting anything. You may need to run a sanding eraser cleaner thingy to get the wood dust out. The difference between worn paper and fresh paper can cause a head to go on too loose, or worn will be a bit too tight and you'll need to put it back on and run it again. Again you're not adjusting anything here, just doing it will take the gnat hair you need to fit perfectly!
If the shafts not straight your taper (or lip) wont be straight.
Harder to explain than it is to do but you wont regret doing it once you get things set up. I do it on a woodchuck and a disc sander. You can do it on any tpaerin gjig that you can get theedge of the shaft to go just past the edge of the paper/disc to create the lip.
I have made a tapering tool similar to the one Kenny made. I made two, one for nocks and the other for points. I got the idea from Bill Sweetland of "Forgewood" compressed arrows. He did it out of necessity, because his shafts would NOT taper with the blade type tools, because they were too dense. Have used mine on thousands of shafts. Plus the sanding disc, if course enough, puts some "teeth" in the taper, for a better gluing bond. Our fir shafts work best on a sanding disc. Surewood Steve