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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Justin Falon on January 20, 2007, 01:40:00 PM
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Do any of you have alternative ways of cutting bamboo backing with hand tools or other than having somebody else do it for you? Thanks.
justin
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Might try a local cabinet shop -- have them cut it for you???
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I've used a hand plane. The longer the bed the better.Clamp it to a flat surface with rubber pads between the nodes.If your iron is sharp the bamboo will cut easily.
Paul
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The first few I did, I used a toothing plane to thin it. Worked good but took a lot of sweat.
I like my big sanders now.
LOL
Mike
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First, I cut away most of the fat with a bandsaw. I do the rest of it with a block plane, then switch to a toothing plane.
Bamboo dulls a plane blade quickly. I sharpen after every 4 or 5 backings.
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Oh,... I can read now ...... hand tools.
If I didn't start with a bandsaw, I would set my block plane for a thick-ish cut to get the bluk down. Then set for a fine cut to get to my line.
Probably have to sharpen more often too.
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Now guy's,, you've got me thinking! I found a large patch of some sort of boo on the river bank. Some of the stalks are 5" to 6" diameter.
Never made a BBO before and now I'm thinking again,,,,, you know me I like to do things from scratch, so this thread is now interesting me ever so much!
Would this raw boo need heat treated? How long does boo take to cure/dry?
TTT for answers!
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I am going to buy it already tapered and I can thin the tips out with a block plane. I am concerned about getting it to dimensions without splintering it.
jf
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You don't need to heat treat the raw bamboo. I like to cut my trunks 6' long, knock the nodes out of the inside of the trunk with a rake or hoe handle and let it dry until it turns from green to tan. Often bamboo will shrink in cup up if cut into strips green. Leaving the trunk whole will prevent the distortion during drying. You may also have a little cracking at the nodes during drying but you can discard these places when you cut the trunk into strips.
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Interesting topic Worrior! I hope you do not mind me throwing in a few questions on the boo subject? I also use mostly hand tools :knothead:
Eric thanks for the info and I'll bet a search on this subject will turn up lots of information. It is concerning that cracks at the nodes will cause some waste. Anyone know of a way to avoid the checking during curing of the boo?
Eric, how long does a 6" x 6' long piece of boo take to cure?