Here are the results of my bareshaft tuning. Just looking for some feedback.
Done from 15 yards with a Bear K-hunter #45@28" drawn 29" 2018 shafts cut 30" 150gr. up front.
(http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=42370&albumid=3256&dl=1380418561&thumb=1)
(http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=42371&albumid=3256&dl=1380418561&thumb=1)
Thanks so much,
Brian
Not sure why the photos are so small...
You didn't indicate left or right handed! Descent group, but your nock height may be a smidge off. A properly tuned bare shaft will recover from paradox quickly, and fly straight to the target.
Shoot on a new block or sheet foam, more easy to know if the bareshafting is good.
I shoot the same poudage and draw length, 2016's may be a better choice. That's what I used and somedays carbons are so strange an animal that I swear I'm going back!
I shoot right handed. If I move the nock down to get rid of the bareshaft nock high, then my feathers start hitting the shelf. Also shoot split finger.
B
Looks like you are on the right track. But the pics are small. If you could back up just a bit more it would give you a better idea. Bigger pics would help. Good luck!
I'm shooting 2016's and 145 up front out of 50@28 and I'm drawing around 27.5 I think but haven't check in a long time.
I quit bare shafting and now just mount broadheads and shoot with my FT and make changes as needed. This has been the best way for me to tune in my bows. Your group looks good to me. I would put on some broadheads and see if they fly and group good now.
Good luck
Here are the links. The links show bigger photos.
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=3256&pictureid=42371
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=3256&pictureid=42370
I would say you are overspined based on my results shooting 2018's out of a 55# bow but your bareshafts are grouping pretty much with your field tips and they are pretty straight except that one is nock high but that could have been something you did because the other bareshaft is straight.
They are all nock high. I cannot get rid of the nock high condition without the bottom feather hitting the shelf. It might be a form issue. I cannot claim I'm the best with shooting form. But the bare shafts and fletched do not show much of a tendency to hit one way of the other. I do not have anyone, or anyplace near me that can help with making a better determination of shooting ability, or to help with grouping.
Brian
I say you could possibly move your nock up slightly but I would shoot lots of groups and see if they all end up like that first. I think you are very close possibly very slightly stiff but again shoot multiple groups before adding tip weight.
So 1/16-1/8 up on nock and 25-50gr up front is what I would do if i continued to see those groups.
I was of the school that "bare shafting" was used to determine if your arrows are flying true just after they leave the bow.....; you know, nock high, nock low, correct spine..
I see there are no real answers to tuning a stickbow... According to the OL Adcock method, this should be "tuned". Although I do agree that my own observations from many other shots which are not photographed led me to believe they are a bit stiff.
Regards,
Brian
BB,
You say your form may not be the "best." How long have you been shooting?? You may be getting the cart before the horse by trying to tune too much too soon.
Can you shoot fletched arrows to a decent group at 10? 15? 20? yards?? IF you can shoot paper plate sized groups (or smaller) at those distances, then tuning might be for you. If you are still working on good groups then just shoot your (really stiff) 2018s and work on good groups. They will group and group tightly IF you are consistent with your shot execution.
Brian, It should really start with grouping and not tuning. Almost ANY arrow spine will group if you do your job but if you are at all inconsistent, tuning will be frustrating, aggravating and disappointing.
Arne
I've shot on and off for maybe 4-5 years. I can generally group inside a paper plate to 20 yards, when on my A game to 30 yards. But realisically, I should be at 15 for a repeatable sub-pie plate group at 15 yards.
Thanks,
B
Like I said I think you are tuned or very close the only reason I would change things is if you continue to see your bare shafts hitting high left, but that is only if every group acts that way if they are all over the "pie plate" then I would say you are good to go. Next step is broad heads on fletched shafts with field points on others. If they group well you are good. Then just focus on getting smaller pie plates. No mater what any chart says, if they group together then your shaft/spine is working for your setup.