911! :help: Lol
I have not posted here in forever but do alot of reading here. I had a shoulder rebuild last December so I am just getting around to messing with my new Bob Lee Heavyweight I had built last spring. It draws right at 45 pounds at my draw length. I really would prefer to shoot a 125 or 150 Stinger. The little bit I have been messing with it with a stock length 500 FMJ its showing stiff with a 150 point. Of course this could also be me being all outta whack from not being able to shoot since the end of last year. And also understand it has been limited playing with it as I wanted to make sure the shoulder would handle it. Do ya'll think I may need a .600 spine??? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I am also open to other broad heads and weights as well if anyone thinks of something that might go along a little better. I really like Simmons heads. Especially the 175 Tiger Shark.
Thanks....
What is your draw length?
About 25 with a recurve.
Are your shafts shorter than 29"?
- JJ
Right now no they are not. But before I go to hacking em up I wanted opinions from yall.
Hi JJ!!!! It's Jason Wells
I have three bob lees all about 50 @ 29 and I shoot 35/55 goldtips at 29.5 and I shoot 200 grains up front that's with 8 inch brace height. I was shooting this weeknd trying to use the stingerbroad heads I already have but I had to use a longer shaft and I ddidn't like the extra length. I was shooting my 62" heavyweight and my camo dipped bob lee. I hope this helps good luck and if you need help just pm me. Brad brantner
I'd leave them the length they're at and front load just a bit.
Also, if you're shooting 5" shield cut feathers, this could stiffen your shafts a good bit. Especially if they've got a real high back.
QuoteOriginally posted by BLA:
I'd leave them the length they're at and front load just a bit.
Also, if you're shooting 5" shield cut feathers, this could stiffen your shafts a good bit. Especially if they've got a real high back.
So should I drop back on the fletching?????
If you're showing stiff, I definitely would go to a 4" shield cut. Your problems will be solved.
I guarantee it.
- JJ
QuoteOriginally posted by BLA:
If you're showing stiff, I definitely would go to a 4" shield cut. Your problems will be solved.
I guarantee it.
- JJ
Cool. I'll try it. FYI everone raves about the quality of the bow. Hopefully my shoulder will allow me some late season doe hunts at the least.
QuoteOriginally posted by BLA:
I'd leave them the length they're at and front load just a bit.
Also, if you're shooting 5" shield cut feathers, this could stiffen your shafts a good bit. Especially if they've got a real high back.
Oh, I still need to install those brass inserts you gave me also. Dang shoulder really got rough a couple weeks after I ran up there to meet Rob and get my bow.
Stop guessing and use Stu's calculator, I swear by it and it works!
http://heilakka.com/stumiller/
Both .500 and .600 will work, but they will still require tuning relative to length and front weight. Fletching does stiffen the arrow and your personal style of shooting (and releasing the string) is also a factor in how much difference you will see between 4" and 5". You can get your current arrows to work...just make one change at a time so you can determine the influence of each variable.
FYI...I have discovered that with my style of shooting .600 spine is the best-tuned and most forgiving shaft for me. This is with bows shooting 47# and less at my 28" draw. I shoot high FOC.
If the brass inserts you mention are for the arrows, don't change anything until you've installed them and re-shot the arrows as they should soften the spine...
Thanks fellas. I dont mind buying new arrows if needed. I just happen to have 5 FMJ laying around that had never been cut. As far as the calculator I have heard of it and could not remember the name to save my life. Thanks for the link!
FYI:
I own a 3 pce recurve which is very fast. It is cut to center without strikeplate. I draw 29 inches and at this length the bow delivers around the 47 lbs.
I use goldtip traditionals 1535, which are .600 to use another notation.
I leave them full length so they are 30.5 inches (valley nock to back of point)
I use standard GT inserts (11.5 grains) and standaard GT nocks (11.5 grains)
I use a 100 grains field tip.
I paint the last 10 inches of the shaft, which adds about 15 grains.
I glue a small bolt in the hollow nocks, which adds another 15 grains.
I use 3 five inch fletches. The weight of the paint and the small bolts (30 grains together) make the shaft a bit stiffer.
These arrows fly to perfection from my 47 lbs recurve.
For your situation I would test both .600 and .500 ( 1535 or 3555) you can play with different frontweights to find out what suits you best. Typically, the .500 shafts will allow you to use more frontweight, giving you a higher FOC. There are always a lot of variables which determine what set-up works for you the best. How much centercut your bow is, your shooting style, how many strands your string has, what silencers, brace height, bow quiver or not and so on.
Take your time and try both shafts with different setups. Once you found it, you're done. The only person who can determine what shoots the best is you!
With a 25" draw you are only getting about 33# draw weight. You might be able to make a full length 500 spine work if you were above 200 grains point weight I would think but a better bet and would give you more options would be a 600 spine shaft.
I believe he said right up front that "it "draws right at 45# at my draw length"
QuoteOriginally posted by Bladepeek:
I believe he said right up front that "it "draws right at 45# at my draw length"
Yessir correct. Its right at 45 at my draw. Maybe 46ish. :)
Oh I see it now my mistake sorry. Yes the 500 spine should work fine for you then.