Quick question I had for anyone that could offer some incite.
I have a 5 year old Martin x-200 recurve(the green wood design) that I have had no problems with so far.
This past weekend I was putting new string silencers on when I was paying close attention to the bow and it seemed like the limbs were out of alignment. (Not same distance from string.)
After stringing the bow (brace height of about 8 inches per Mfr directions I tried to run a ruler along the string at equal lengths from the top and bottom to try and get measurements and it seems as if there is less distance from the top limb to the string than the bottom limb...about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch difference (One piece recurve)
I realize that the shape of the handle/riser is not uniform from top to bottom and being a one piece bow I don't have the point where the limb meet riser for two exact measurements as in a take down recurve.
Question is am I being paranoid?
I don't keep the bow strung for any length of time, shoot regularly at least 3 to 4 days a week, keep it in a cool garage with humidifier running and always lay it down on my workbench on its side. (I have never stood it up in a corner)
Any incite would be greatly appreciated. (bad thing is when I got started with bow I didn't pay attention to measurements so I have nothing to go by to see if anything has changed. )
Your bow is fine. That is called positive tiller and is normal. Measure from the string to the belly of the limb at the end of the fadeouts. The upper limb distance will usually be 1/8 to 1/4 inch greater than the lower limb. Martin/DH bows are typically on the high side. Some bows, particularly for 3-under shooters are tillered neutral.
That is normal at about 1/4" not sure where you are measuring for 3/8.It is called your bow tiller.Maybe nothing wrong.Someone with more smarts about bows will chime in.Kip
Normally the lower limb measurement is the less distance. Don't know why the lower limb would measure more. :dunno:
If it shoots good and is relatively quiet, then no problem.
Your bow is fine, I have seen the the tiller be as much as 3/8ths. look at some of the old Bear Kodiaks, some had a difference of 3/8ths. I set my ILF bows with a 1/4" positive tiller and an 1/8th. inch more is fine! Shawn
To see if a bow is out of alignment, you should cradle one end of the strung bow in your hand and rest the other end on the floor, so that the bow is pointing away from you. You then sight along the string, paying particular attention to the point where the string meets the limbs. If the part of the string from the point where it meets the limbs to the limb tips is not in the same line as the rest of the string, then the bow is out of alignment. This would indicate that one of the limb tips has been twisted or bent to the side. Sometimes you can bend the limb tip back until it is straight again, and sometimes it will stay that way. Other times, it will work its way back into a twist again, and then you have problems.
Guys, Thought I responded to this question but must have forgotten to hit the "enter" button.
He said that " it seems as if there is less distance from the top limb to the string than the bottom limb."
LESS distance from the top limb to the string than the bottom! That is reversed tiller and most likely indicates a problem with the bow.
Arne
PS. OPPS did respond but on another site. Sucks trying to keep track -- too old -- too old!!
Arne has a good point, but from the description, I'm not sure the measurement was made correctly. What you should do is to identify the point where the riser section ends and the working limbs begin. This is called the fade-out. On a one piece bow, looking at the side of the limbs, you should be able to see 4 or so laminations in the working part of the limb that extend all the way to the limb tips. On the riser side of that, there will either be more laminations or a solid piece of wood, and an identifiable spot where they meet. That is where you want to make your measurement, which generally shows 1/4 - 3/8" more on the upper limb that the lower limb for split, or possibly less or an equal measurement for 3 under, but as Arne says, generally not negative.
Ya, here is what I posted on the other site:
"The only measurement that means much will be the "tiller" measurement. With the bow at proper brace height, measure perpendicular to the string at each fade out. IF the bow (unlikely for a manufactured bow) measures the same at each fade out, then the bow was tillered for 3 under. If the top measurement is 1/8 to 1/4 inch MORE on the top limb, then the bow is correct for split finger.
If the bottom is MORE than the top, there is a problem. you will find shooting a bow where the bottom limb is out more than the top limb to be difficult (impossible) to tune or shoot."
Arne
Arne, I agree to a point but a lot of ILF shooters have a negative tiller as well. Meaning top limb is as you describe and no problems. It has a lot to do where they place their fingers on the string. Lots of guys string walk as well.Shawn
Must agree with Moebow.. When a customer orders a bow and shoots split finger we tiller it 1/8 to 1/4 closer on lower limb.. Even for 3 under. Our bows, and I think most have a shelf riding 1.25 inches above center which makes the lower limb longer thus need a stronger limb on the bottom.
And his bow is a Martin X-200 not an ILF or custom.
Tiller should be positive and not negative. JMHO.
I believe most of you fellers misread the post.
The mans bow has more space on the measurement if the bottom limb than he does on the top. that is reverse tiller. negative and not positive. It is tillered backwards with the stipulation that he has measured it correctly. The tiller for that bow should be between dead even and 3/;8 positive tiller with the greater measurement being on the top limb and not the bottom limb.
the way to measure it is to take a 90 degree massurement from the end of the fades to the string on each end.
BTW it certainly would not be the first time that a bow got tillered backwards.
God bless, Steve