I just switched from carbon to parrallel Douglas Fir. Now that I finally have the right shaft/point weight for my bow, would I mess everything up and have to retune my arrows if I went with tapered shafts, or will the same spine/length/point be ok?
You can order your tapered shafts/arrows at the same spine and weight as your parallel arrows. They're tapered first, spine and weight matched second.
If you decide to taper your existing shafts, a 9-10-inch taper will take off 20-30 grains of weight and 1-3# of spine, not enough to worry about.
The 1-3# of spine doesn't concern as much as the loss of overall weight. I didn't realize you loose that much, 20-30 gr seems like a lot to me, sometimes the difference between quiet, and not so quiet.
Thanks
David
I find no great advantage in tapered shafts over standard shafts. If your firs are shooting good then there you go!
There's no loss of weight if you order them already tapered. You simply order the spine and physical weight you want. Order them the same spine and weight as your currrent arrows.
Regardless, I haven't found a 20-30grain weight difference to appreciably change bow/string noise.
It makes them a little more weight forward which is a good thing.Tapered arrows recover from paradox a little quicker.Also gives a little more clearance when it slides over the shelf.
I shoot tapered wood arrows, but I have noticed that they are a little more prone to be bent, or get bent with use, in the tapered section of the shaft. So I always make sure I straighten the tapered section as well as I can before I fletch the shaft, and check it often thereafter.
All good points to consider. I'm getting such good flight out of my current setup that I probably shouldn't mess with it, but the benefits of more FOC, and quicker paradox recovery are tempting.
Thanks guys. Gonna think about it.
I haven't found much difference between tapered & straight as to arrow flight or noise.
I order custom split hex tapered arrows to hunt with & straight split hex shafts to build my own practice/small game/stump shooting arrows. I order the same spine & length & they both hit the same POI for me.
for me they are not worth the expence .because they don't fly any better than parallels.just my experience though .
I've only seen a decrease in overall weight of around 10 grains when a shaft is tapered. You can make that back with an extra coat if finish. I haven't seen a big improvement in foc either. Maybe 1 or 2 percent. I like the idea of a tapered shaft, but they don't seem to fly much better than parallels to me.
We taper lots of shafts at Surewood, and yes it's is more money, but we feel that that there is a benefit in the weight forward, quicker recovery and the clearance past the shelf. Plus the aerodynamics through the air, look at the body of an Boeing jet, they don't fly them parallel.
Tapered shafts sure are a lot nicer when pulling them out of targets!
I taper all my hunting shafts and most of my practice shafts. I shoot bows that are not cut past center.
I feel that it is worth the extra time or money and I like the way they fly.
I've only noticed a difference with non-centershot bows, the tapered cedars I shot from my longbows flew great.
I've shot tapered shafts/arrows for years. For me, it's the only way to go.
I notice a difference.
Seems less critical of tune.
Plus the change in weight distribution is a huge plus. I get tapered or taper my own shafts when ever possible.
Worth the $10 to me. Or and hour or less to do it myself.
I notice a difference.
Seems less critical of tune.
Plus the change in weight distribution is a huge plus. I get tapered or taper my own shafts when ever possible.
Worth the $10 to me. Or and hour or less to do it myself.
Again, don't expect any significant difference. I shoot only longbows and find that it's much more important to have arrows of the same exact spine and weight than tapered shafts that vary 6 pounds in spine. JM2C Weight forward with 10 to 15 % WITH GOOD FLIGHT is sufficient for most N. American game.