What is the norm for glueing broadheads onto your woodies?
I've been using hot melt glue but as of late it's been a PIA to get them straight. I know some use 2 part epoxy but is it only used for gluing broadheads onto the screw in adapters or do you guy's use them for direct mounting as well? Obviously once mounted with 2 part epoxy they are not coming off again with out destroying the arrow...
I use the Kimsha hot melt, and have no problem getting them straight. Using epoxy sounds risky. You can't adjust it once it sets, and you're gonna have a hard time reusing that broad head if the arrow ever breaks, or you just want to change it.
Using epoxy gives you plenty of time for an adjustment and spin testing. Although I have only used maybe four different epoxy types, all of them were removable by heating the broadhead and twisting the arrow to break the bond. I just did that a couple days ago to a couple arrows.
I still normally use hot melt glue, which is not that difficult to use once you figure out what you need to do.
ChuckC
I'm curious what the four different epoxy brands you used were? I'm wanting to try the epoxy method and am happy to hear that they can be removed again via heat.
ive used epoxy to glue broadheads onto screw in adaptors, but have always used hot melt for gluing them to woodies never had a problem, heat the head a little then heat the glue and put the head on, you should have time to true it up, if not just heat it a little, Ive been using PAM adhesives hotmelt lately, its a construction grade glue that works great
I fit my woodies with a field tip to get a good allignment and then fit the BH. Spin the arrow to check for straightness. Re-adjust with a little more heat if neccessary.
Forgot to mention I use hot melt glue :knothead:
Dave, most recent was Devcon home 5 minute epoxy.
ChuckC
I don't know why this belief persists that epoxied heads are super-forever-permanent mounted on wood arrows. I routinely remove heads that have been glued on with epoxy from my broken arrows so they can be used again.
Just apply heat like you would to a head that has been glued with hot melt. After a few seconds I twist with a pair of pliers. If the head doesn't come off then it's back into the heat until it does. It's really pretty easy and the arrow is not a blackened, charred, unusable mess afterwards.
Guy
Whats glue got to do with getting a BH on straight?
I do know if you get too much hot melt in the ferrul every time you try to tweak the head it will try to slide off, It don't take a gob of glue to keep a point on.
Eric
What Eric asked
The reason for trouble getting your broadheads on straight is usually one of two things.
1. You've put glue on the taper and just pushed the head on... you need to spin the broadhead on the taper to spread the glue evenly. Make sure the ferrule is good and hot.
2. The taper on the shaft is not true.
I was not aware epoxy could be undone with heat. Good to know.
QuoteOriginally posted by Charlie Lamb:
The reason for trouble getting your broadheads on straight is usually one of two things.
1. You've put glue on the taper and just pushed the head on... you need to spin the broadhead on the taper to spread the glue evenly. Make sure the ferrule is good and hot.
2. The taper on the shaft is not true.
What do you use for your taper tool Charlie, I think a lot of guys just use a pencil sharpener type tool and can be tough to get a good taper sometimes. Precision tools can be a little more costly for some. Any tips or suggestions for the new guys? Sorry, don't mean to steal the thread.
QuoteOriginally posted by skunkhound:
I was not aware epoxy could be undone with heat. Good to know.
It can but it definitely takes more heat than hot melts.
It does take more heat; a match won't do it but an alcohol burner works just fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=js_lPwZ0vzc
Guy
Knawbone,
I use a Woodchuck taper tool. It's the best in my opinion. Grinding jigs on a disc sander of any kind will do just as well.
Pencil sharpener type cutters can work ok if the angle is set right and the blades are nice and sharp. They are usually not suitable for harder woods than cedar, though.
Often you can have the taper ground by the person you get your shafts from.
Thanks Charlie, I use a grinder set up I made, but thought you could add some info for the new guys in the sport. Your right, you really need a good tapering set up for precision tapers. Thanks for your response.
:thumbsup:
With any type of grinder taperer the arrow has to be very straight to get a true taper.
Denny
Good point Longstiks, that is very true.
I use hot melt, and I never have a real problem. If the broad head does not spin true, I simply re-heat it and make the needed adjustments.
Im sorry...but isnt Ferrul tite sort of the holy grail here??
there are some things better left alone...
having some hot glue drip on your finger tips is sort of a right of passage...( and then figuring out how to avoid it next time)
Most two part epoxies release @ 200 Deg F.. They also release about 0F.
By far, the best adhesive I have found is PC-7 Epoxy available at any ACE Hardware. It is really stiff so you can align and straighten the heads and it releases readily with heat. Also, it is not as brittle as regular epoxy so it stands up to impact better. I use it for all points on woodies. The only downside is that it takes overnight to fully set up.
--Mike