I shoot a longbow on the lower end of good deer hunting weight and usually penetrate both lungs on a deer (20 yards and under) but my arrow never comes completely out or even sticks our on the other side. I got both lungs on 2 different hogs as well - maybe in the 275-300 lb range.
I hunt where there are lots of hogs and need all the penetration I can get. My hog shots so far were very low and behind the shield so I had the best possible chance for penetration in those situations. I'd also like to have 2 holes in deer regularly for a better blood trail. We talk a lot about penetration and carefully watch things like matching the broadhead bevel with left and right wing feather spin - cause Dr Ashby says we cancel out a lot of our penetration if we cross mix those two factors. We worry over 2 blades vs 2, and of course add a lot more arrow weight, but why do we almost never see any talk about making our arrows slicker? Wouldn't that help a lot? So, what would be a good lubricant for wood and metal that you could put on after you nock your arrow on the hunt and would not have a give away smell? How many of you do that now,and what do you use?
I realize I could shoot a heavier weight but I'm 71 years old and used to shoot a lot of 3-D competition. I've seen a ton of people over bowed
who could have shot great if they had dropped some pounds. So I think being able to hit the spot out ranks more weight,but I'd still like to help my arrow a little bit. Any good ideas?
well, i am a fly fisherman and mainly fish dry flies i put silicone on my flies and my fly line ,really shoots, you can get spray that works,plus will keep your feathers dry in the rain,you want to get fly fish specific silicone though, not the stuff for coats and shoes, no smell, good luck !
well, i am a fly fisherman and mainly fish dry flies i put silicone on my flies and my fly line ,really shoots, you can get spray that works,plus will keep your feathers dry in the rain,you want to get fly fish specific silicone though, not the stuff for coats and shoes, no smell, good luck !
I use Ivory soap for 3D targets and no smell and helps get the arrows out of targets. I also put a light coat on my hunting arrows as well. It does seem to help in penetration for live game and sure helps in getting wood arrows out of 3D targets. As my grandson once said it makes them slippery to me....
I note that Magnus broadheads are Teflon coated, which is advertised to increase penetration. Don't know if any tests have been done to validate this.
I'm 69, in the same boat as you are, weight-wise. Also have shot a lot of 3D, and have used the stuff that makes it easier to pull arrows out of 3D targets, at times, but don't know if it would increase penetration on live animals. Would be nice if there were some tests, like Ashby did, as sometimes these things don't work out like we would imagine.
I think once the broadhead has penetrated the animal then the fluids from the body such as blood would provide enough lubricant to render the arrow shaft "slick".
Hi Charles, Here's a couple ideas. First, the lubricant issue can't hurt. Whether it be silicon, soap or just a very slick finish on your arrows - any of it should help. The other is the diameter of the arrows you use. I just measured a couple arrows; New CE250's and an old skinny Beman Hunter 70/90. The difference in circumference and therefore the contact surface is 22%. Granted you would like to use wood but maybe you can find some old Forgewood shafts to use or try some of the new skinny carbons. The next is the work by Dr. Ashby that you have already alluded to - increase your FOC to 20-25% if you haven't already, it's made a significant difference to my setup.
car wax makes them real slick---
if they smell your arrows -they have already smelled you!
Softstep,
Sounds like you are doing all you can ... Most poundage to shoot with good accuracy, shooting 20 yards and under etc.
Pete is correct relative to the diameter of a larger shaft reducing penetration. However if you are a died in the wool woodie shooter, then so be it ... I shoot only wood shafts as well. I think physics is working against you as the lower poundage bow only yields so much energy. However, you did not mention which broad head you shoot. A longer, narrower head will give you a higher mechanical advantage ... Kinda like adding horse power to your shot. You may get more penetration from this change.
Good luck!
Bob.
borden makes a product called "slip spray or maybe its slide spray? its basically a teflon spray I initially used on cabinet drawer glides, but found it worked great on wood arrows to help pull them from excelsior bales...
maybe this would be of use for you...its an orange/blue/white can at the hardware store...
Seriously??
Think about this.
The only time one cares about penetration is when you hit an animal, correct??
So you hit an animal...and when the skin is penetrated, and the arrow shaft enters the body....what does it encounter???
Blood, fat, muscle, tissue......Slick slimy stuff.
Not to mention that just about any broadhead makes a hole larger than the diameter of the shaft.
You don't need lubrication on an arrow to aid penetration in a critter.
if you are getting into both lungs then it is more an issue of arrow weight, etc. I agree with Otto...I do not think this is a "lubrication" issue.... :dunno:
thats all pretty to the point I guess...it doesnt hurt to keep a protective layer on you arrows anyway...and for my purposes it does make it easier to pull arrows from a target.
I agree that a sharp broadhead from a straight flying arrow is the #1 deal in what we do.
Gene Wensel puts "slick em" on his arrow shafts and says it aids in penetration.. He uses tire gel..
I use Black Magic Tire wet. Big Hog Shields are cartilage and can and will pinch back. This I know for a fact. If never killed a thick shielded hog, you don't know.
Yes, it smells initial...but goes away....they will smell you 1st anyway...no need to worry about the arrows.
If Gene and Terry take the time to do it, and say it helps then I'm all for it. Those two kill a lot of critters not just hogs. I also know of 'entry burn'. Friction from speed of contact at entry can dry out very fast, and since most guys use two blades shaft pinch is an issue. Yes Seriously! :D
QuoteOriginally posted by Otto:
Seriously??
Think about this.
The only time one cares about penetration is when you hit an animal, correct??
So you hit an animal...and when the skin is penetrated, and the arrow shaft enters the body....what does it encounter???
Blood, fat, muscle, tissue......Slick slimy stuff.
Not to mention that just about any broadhead makes a hole larger than the diameter of the shaft.
You don't need lubrication on an arrow to aid penetration in a critter.
You should listen to this guy x2
If you are tuned to perfection, the biggest improvement would be gained by upping your arrow weight. You don't sound like thats an option, there have been a couple good suggestions here and I've also heard of using Pam cooking spray though I've never tried it.
The new STOS Classic Ceramic broadheads are super slick, as are the teflon coated Eclipse heads those might be an option for you as well.
I also use the Black Magic Tire Wet.I'm shooting carbons and I first buff the shaft with 0000 steel wool,then buff with a paper towel then apply the Tire Wet.It is a good idea to do it a week or so ahead of the season to let them air out.
It does make a difference.A broadhead does open up a decent hole and the arrow does contact some slick stuff but that doesn't mean there is zero friction.If there were zero friction,the arrow would not slow down at all.Even shooting into a swimming pool puts drag on an arrow-way more than shooting through the air.
For my setups,every little bit helps.I use one arrow for everything,deer to elk and want to do everything I can to increase penetration,especially since these days I'm having to shoot bows in the low 50# range.
I think you guys might be over thinking this.
If you think about it all the arrow does is deliver the broad head with force behind it.
All the cutting is done by the head,the arrow just follows in the path cut into the animal.
Personally I never worry about slicking up my shafts. I concentrate on having razor sharp blades .
I've used the Mothers Tire Gel -- it has a pleasent fruity smell... I let them air out anyway..
Hey,
Another thing you can do to improve penetration is get the most efficient bow you can. For example if you shoot a D style long bow with no r/d you have already lost a lot of velocity and power. If you switch over to a hybrid longbow even in the same weight you will get improve velocity. Perhaps even a recurve would be something to look into. Efficiency of bow design will go a long way toward improving your penetration. Also consider switching to 5/16 shafts over 11/32. Twig has 5/16 ramin at lower pound ages and a good price.
Softstep would you mind posting the type of bow, weight at your draw and the weight of the arrows you are shooting? I shoot lower poundage too. I think the gang here could help you more if they knew what your set up was. It would help me as well. Thanks.
Star Brite Marine Polish with PTEF! It's predecessor had Teflon and was used on racing boats to make the hull slicker. From what I read of Teflon, it doesn't work if just sprayed or wiped on a surface. I never tried that because it was no longer sold. This stuff makes the same claims about PTEF making the hull slicker. I bought it to try on full metal jackets, already about the slickest shaft surface there is. I shot some game in Africa with it. Did it work? I don't know. But my wallet slid in and out of my pocket a lot easier! It's about $25/14 ounces of paste wax. But, that's enough to wax maybe 200,000 arrow shafts.
Slight odor of petroleum similar to auto/boat wax. Goes away.
I'll say this: the fiberglass top on my jeep and the skin of my fiberglass camper feel a hell of a lot slicker after using it on them.
I'm with Terry. I do not agree that there is no friction on the shaft when it enters the animal. It's not a significant factor on most shots, or most animals. On hogs and on some shots with other animals, it might be.
I will not be stressing much about this in the future. It was just a wild hair! And, I've got a lifetime supply!
A skinny 2 blade broadhead with about a 3:1 ratio and sharp is the best arrow lubricant out there!
QuoteOriginally posted by KentuckyTJ:
QuoteOriginally posted by Otto:
Seriously??
Think about this.
The only time one cares about penetration is when you hit an animal, correct??
So you hit an animal...and when the skin is penetrated, and the arrow shaft enters the body....what does it encounter???
Blood, fat, muscle, tissue......Slick slimy stuff.
Not to mention that just about any broadhead makes a hole larger than the diameter of the shaft.
You don't need lubrication on an arrow to aid penetration in a critter.
You should listen to this guy x2 [/b]
X3
I use woodworking paste wax by Minwax,it makes those arrows so slippery,I have never had a problem with penetration I shoot 55lbs.but I figure every little bit helps.
OK, don't consider hogs as that shield is a unique barrier. Take deer, for example. The broadhead travels at most 18" from one side to the other, and does it in milliseconds. That's the only time friction matters, of course. But, I agree with JimB, it certainly does exist. How many times have you seen a downed deer where the hole in the skin does not match the hole in the flesh, because he was moving when hit? Sure, it feels effortless when you cut through hair, skin, flesh, and organs, so if it's a slimy hole to boot, then it can't cause friction, right? Wrong. It's often all moving at the point of impact, and not moving in the same direction. Think about the tissue while being cut, not the hole afterwards. Don't think about pushing your sharp knife through the connective tissue and organs-think about trying to pull those tissues apart with your hands while other forces are pulling along the shaft in various directions. That tissue is moving and some part of the force vectors are acting to slow the arrow down.
I helped track a bull that a friend had punched with a file sharpened Grizzly-60# longbow at 15 yds. He had not sharpened the tanto edges. We found that the head had entered between ribs, barely poked the back edge of one lung and pulled it through to the offside hole where the head stopped with lung plugging the hole. The lung collapsed but was not sliced. He went a hell of a long way after the shot!
That doesn't prove anything, of course, but it showed me that internal organs and tissue can certainly slow an arrow. To whatever extent that lung held together it retarded penetration, both as in line drag, and by pulling that arrow tip off it's path. Ashby showed that any time broadhead fails by bending ,or the shaft being bent, penetration stops quickly .
Ashby also proved -to my satisfaction-that smaller diameter shafts penetrate further. Two obvious reasons, friction and cross sectional area. It simply stands to reason, that a slicker shaft that is also smaller diameter will improve penetration.
Yeah, when you walk up to your downed deer it's a sloppy mess around that hole(that's a good thing!) But, it wasn't like that during the time the arrow was penetrating. The tissue was dryer, live, and maybe moving fast as hell! We can only speculate about the effects.
That said, this issue is about #250 on the list of things I should do to improve my chances of getting my animal. I'm not likely to worry about it in the future.
I have used Vaseline on my heads for sometime now. Maybe it doesn't help but what can it hurt. If nothing else it will keep your broadheads from rusting.
Blood