I have purchased some carbon arrow before and had a bad time tuning them because I would glue in my points and then can't figure out how to get them out to fine tune the shaft, without reheating them and weakening it. I read some where that I could have trimmed the nock end of the shaft? (Feeling stupid right now) :help:
its not that hard to get the inserts out. just drop a 3/16 or so drill bit into the arrow back end first and whip it towards the ground so as to impact the drill bit against the insert.
pops em out with a few repetitions.
yes you can trim the back end on regular carbon shafts. easiest way is to make a jig and use a file on edge
I tune my carbons without gluing in the inserts.I'll push them in with some saran wrap,it will hold them in snug enough for shooting and tuning.Shoot and then pull them out,trim and repeat.It's quick and easy,you just need a softer target like a bag target that doesn't grab the arrow so tight it will pull the insert backout.I get my tuning done without having them glued or applying any heat to my carbons.Been doing it this way for years.
JRY309 has a good tip there. You may lose your pts. in a Block type target. Been there, done that.
cut off the nock end
If you bare shaft tune you can glue in the inserts as normal. When you need to cut the shaft cut from the nock end.
I most always cut from the nock end because I've been footing my carbons lately, but JRY309's method works well also.
Low temp hot melt glue. Holds without losing them in the foam and easily removed without damage to the shaft or insert with heat.
Low temp glue works well. I used to say a drill bit dropped inside the shaft works to knock the insert out, but I bought a few used arrows and whatever was used to glue them in, I can't get to budge. Even if I "whip " the arrow.
Saran Wrap works ok , but I have lost a head and adapter a couple of times inside my target.
Trimming off the back end works well.
Short and sweet.
I use the cool flex, which makes them easy to remove. I have also used a drill bit or a .22 cal ramrod to pop them out.
I just use hot melt on the inserts. If I have to get them out I just screw in a 300 grain field point and heat the point...never the shaft. The point transmits enough heat to melt the glue and I can pull the head/insert out with pliers.
Trimming the back end works on most bare shafts, doesn't work very well on arrows that have a nock bushing like my ACCs.
To get the straightest arrows you should really be alternately trimming the point end and nock end to maximize the straightest section in the middle. The plastic wrap on the point trick already mentioned is the fastest and cleanest way to quickly remove the point for tuning. Manufacturers measure the straightness of the middle 28in of the shafts so if you don't remove material from both sides you risk having an out of line point or nock.