Before my recent trip to NZ I was tuning my bow arrow combination.
I found out that bow hand placement plays a massive roll in showing what is happening when your tuning.
I ended up building out the shelf pad which had good results but with some inconsistencies.
I built the pad out again but only in a 3mm strip above the pivot point on my shelf.
This gave much better results which were more consistent.
Doing it this way made having exact hand placement a little less critical.
(http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g463/markpitts1/Bowhunting-forum/IMG335_zpsf0de4abb.jpg)
(http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g463/markpitts1/Bowhunting-forum/IMG336_zpsf7f48a90.jpg)
Then I did this a day or so later. I cant recall ever seeing it done before, so I wondered how common it is ?
(http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g463/markpitts1/Bowhunting-forum/P1190653_zps2607f037.jpg)
Mark.
Ha that's awesome..I've Robin Hooded one but it wasn't with a bare shaft. Nice shot.
I've had quite a few robinhoods, but never with a bare shaft!
Good shooting.
Bisch
I would say your set up and shutting are right on!
I think you have everything dialed in... :thumbsup:
Very cool! I have several Robinhoods, but never a bare shaft one! Stop tuning now! :thumbsup:
That is pretty awesome!
nice!
Hey Mark, Can you show pictures of the modifications?
Shanks, it is pretty hard to see cause it is under the Velcro shelf and strike plate material.
If you put something across your shelf so it is horizontal to you when holding the bow.
Ive put a small piece of wood (match stick) this was the right height so the arrow only contacts this at rest and at full draw.
Then continue this for maybe 1/2 inch (12mm)up the sight window under the strike plate.
The last bit I only did because my arrows were showing weak. the thicker you go
(away from the bow))the stiffer they become.
Hope that helps.
My condolences and Congrats are in order. Looks like you are in good shape!
Fred Bear used to tune his bow to the arrows by building the sideplate out to suit the arrows he wanted to shoot. That's the opposite of many that tune the arrows to the bow.
Putting the contact point of the arrow directly at the pivot point of the bow greatly reduces the chance to torque the bow, making your shooting more consistent.
I have 4 robin hoods, 1 with a bare shaft, 1 with a blunt
I did that over the winter, but the other way around. From about 15 shot a bare shaft then hooded it with a fletched shaft.
Looks good. Back when I could shoot decent I did it a few times. A couple bare shaft in a bare shaft robin hoods. But now I don't tune my bare shaft to shoot quite as straight into the target and I don't shoot near as well.
I did that over the winter, but the other way around. From about 15 shot a bare shaft then hooded it with a fletched shaft.
Have bare shaft to bare shaft robinhood only once.
>>>Luck or misfortune<<<
QuoteOriginally posted by Mark Pitts:
Shanks, it is pretty hard to see cause it is under the Velcro shelf and strike plate material.
If you put something across your shelf so it is horizontal to you when holding the bow.
Ive put a small piece of wood (match stick) this was the right height so the arrow only contacts this at rest and at full draw.
Then continue this for maybe 1/2 inch (12mm)up the sight window under the strike plate.
The last bit I only did because my arrows were showing weak. the thicker you go
(away from the bow))the stiffer they become.
Hope that helps.
Cheers Mark. I think I have the idea now.
Mark, I think you have it figured out :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Phil Magistro:
Fred Bear used to tune his bow to the arrows by building the sideplate out to suit the arrows he wanted to shoot.
Phil,
I cut my arrows with the point weights I want to get them close then just fine tune with the side plate.
seemed to work well this time.