Hey guys ...bought some CX Heritage 350's that I wanted to try. I'm seeing a slight tail whip to the right during flight. My set up is a JK Chastain Wapiti Recurve, 64# at 28. I draw just a shade over 28 1/2 inches. I believe it's cut to center, plus a leather strike plate.
My arrows are 30", with a 100 grass brass insert and a 1.5" aluminum footing. I built them out and bare shafted to the best of my shooting ability. They were grouping fairly well for me. It seems that I get the same flight and point of impact with everything from 100 to 225 grains up front.
Based on you guy's experience where do I need to be for this set up? I've reached a point of frustration as I've never had trouble getting perfect visual flight out of any of my bows in the past.
350s are a very stiff shaft especially when they are cut short. Have you shot the shaft without feathers (bareshaft) to see how it hits the target? Bare shaft tuning will tell you if it is stiff or weak.
I have shot those arrows at a similar weight but much longer draw and I'd guess they would be stiff out of your bow, try upping your tip weight a little more.
Try turning cock feather in and shoot a couple, buddy of mine had similar issue and that fixed it.
I guess the first question is: What do you see when you bare shaft them? Based on my recent experience I would think you would see a nock left, meaning slightly weak. You may need to cut more off to stiffen them up more.
I tuned my 60# R/D to CX350's a month ago. My draw length is 28 or slightly less. I installed 100 gr. brass inserts and 250 gr. target points and started cutting the back of the shaft off until I got perfect flight out to 20 yards. The arrows ended up @ 29" from the base of the nock throat to the back of the insert. Toward the end of my tuning I was cutting off 1/8" at a time until the arrows flew like darts.
If your arrows are not going into the target perfectly straight you either have your nocking point off or your spine off or both (that was my case). I understand your frustration, been there myself.
When you said you try everything from 100 to 225 up front, I was reading that as total weight counting insert, but I bet you weren't counting insert, so I withdraw my thought about stiff spine.
You are way too stiff, a .400 spine cut to 30"s with 225 may work but that may even be a tad stiff. You will need close to 400 grains give a take either way on those shafts. I wouls think 375 may get ya close. Shawn
Thanks for the responses -- when I bare shafted, they were "nock right" but I had always understood bareshafting to be more concerned with impact rather than bare arrow flight (due to variances in release, form, etc.).
That's disheartening to hear they would be that much too stiff -- using Stu Miller's calculator they trend out almost perfectly with my bow set up. Definatley not showing to be accurate unfortunately.
I'll keep tinkering with tip weight, brace, and nock point and hopefully get them. They shoot pretty well in terms of point of impact and grouping -- but I can visually notice a slight whip right. Ugh.
So is someone positioned behind you when you shoot seeing the same thing that you are?
DDave
no...no one is watching me shoot. I've been shooting for most of my life though, so I'm pretty comfortable with what I'm seeing in terms of it's definately a tail kick to the right (slight).
I'd listen to Shawn.
Stu's calc has me consistently overspined by about 15-20 lbs.
I can't see why you can't get them to fly like darts. My set up is a bow I made, 3 piece d/r long bow 63 @ 29 cut to center CE 350 cut to 30.5 with 175 total up front and they fly like darts. I would pop out that insert install the aluminum insert and start at 125 and work your way up you'll get there. I wouldn't obsess about bareshafting you don't hunt barrshaft do you? JMOH!
Cory
Listen to Shawn :thumbsup: