Have some serious fits fellas. I'm shooting a Northern Mist Classic longbow 58# at 28. My draw split draw is about 27.5" and I'm shooting 3 Rivers 55-60 cedar hunter arrows 28 1/4'' with 5.5" parabolic LW feathers. Shooting 125gr glue on points up front. My arrow flight is poor. Am I under spined or over? I want to shoot woodies, but I'm becoming discouraged. Thanks for any help. I didn't bare shaft them. :banghead:
What is the length of your arrow?
F-Manny
My arrows are 28 1/4.
You would be supprised to see how differently bows shoot, how close to center is the shelf cut...the closer, or even more past center it is the higher spine you will need. If it is off center cut by more than 1/8" or so, wou will need a weaker spine....try some dif. weight heads. I usually shoot heavy weight up front, but on my morrison it took a verry high spine...much more than I was expecting.
I'd be shooting 50-55# spine. 27.5" draw, my arrows would be cut 28.5" or a tad longer for clearance.
Your set up sounds about right for that bow.................tell us what your arrows are doing. :archer2:
Probably a little stiff. Try some heavier points and see if it helps. What does the flight look like?
Call 3 rivers and get a test kit.
The arrows are cartwheeling a touch. Not straight by any means. I'm shooting about 15 yards. I have some 160s maybe I'll glue those on and try them shortly. Something is definitely awry. Fishtailing and looping through the air kind of. Thanks for the help.
I would try nock point first move it up 1/8 at a time. If that does not do it brace could also be a culprit try up and down. Then point increase weight. If the arrows are truly 55/60 they should fly pretty good-as it is-you are only off by 5# or so, if indeed you are off.. Keep us posted we will get you there! Just make one change at a time.
I bumped them up to 160gr and they flew a little better, but hard to tell. I'll mess with nock point tomorrow. It's a little above center. The brace height could be more, I think it's around 6" and I already lightly sanded my nock so they don't stick. Should be shooting great. I have about zero confidence right now.
Don't let your confidence sink. The fact that your arrow flight is not good does not mean you should not shoot wood. It simply means you haven't yet found the setup your bow wants. Tinker with point weight, spine, nock point location, and brace height in small increments. Magically, you will hit on it and your bow will thank you with groups that will astound you.
Based on how my Hill bows perform, I would look at 60-65# shafts. For example my 55# Cheetah likes 55-60# shafts with 125 grain points on 29" shafts. I prefer a little under spined but just a hair.
Thanks Sam. I'll look into snagging some 60-65s. I'll cut them at 29" and work my way shorter.
The one thing that people often forget to ask in these situations is how many arrows total would you have shot in your lifetime...the problem sounds as much like a form issue as it is a spine issue
DDave
BTW if wooden shafts are so simple why do we have anything else available?
DDave
Which arrow material do you prefer Dave?
There are sooo many things that can contribute to poor arrow flight in cases like this and that makes it is almost impossible to fix via long distance...
I would almost be willing to bet that you have more than one problem going on here-- form, release, consistency of arrow spine, consistency of weight, consistency of shaft straightness, nocking point position, etc. etc.
If I were you I would try to find someone close by that can provide some up close and personal help and IF I lived in the U.P. and was shooting a Northern Mist bow then I would do everything in my power to get up with Steve Turay at NM and seek his help and advice. I can assure you there is no one who wants you to enjoy the ABSOLUTE THRILL of beautiful arrow flight more than Steve.
rick
Thanks Rick. I know Steve well. I buy all my bows straight from his shop. I'll give him a call and see what we can setup. Something is awry for sure.