Hi,
My name is Laura, I'm 23 years old and have been shooting and hunting with a compound for several years now. Just ordered my first ever longbow after shooting one at the local range. I'm hooked! Problem is, I know a lot about compounds and nothing about trad bows!
My bow is an Omega (http://omegalongbows.webs.com/) , 40 at 28 (about 32lbs at my 25" draw length), it is 62" long and cut to center (at least I'm pretty sure it is). I believe it is a hybrid longbow.
It should be here early next week and I still haven't gotten my arrows. I have looked at several charts and it seems like they all say something different.... I have no real preference as to carbon or wood (probably not aluminum). I eventually would like to hunt with this bow if I can get good enough with it.
So what type of arrows would you recommend? I've asked trad guys at my archery club and they all disagree. One says to get GoldTip 3555's and leave them full length with a heavy point. Another says get 1535's and cut them as short as possible with light tips.
Help, I am paralyzed with indecision! Haha, my bow will be here soon and I will be dying to shoot it! I have already ordered a Limbsaver stringer for it.
I really like the looks of wood arrows (especially these ones (http://www.****.com/itm/Custom-built-Lodge-Pole-Pine-Traditional-Arrows-/271246704844?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f279040cc) , but not sure if they are worth the hassle of having to straighten them? I only plan on shooting targets until I am good enough to hunt.
Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated!!!
Hi Laura, as a new archer I would stick with either carbon or aluminum shafts while your learning how to shoot, tune your bow, proper form, etc. Wood arrows are great but they are not as consistant as the aforementioned shafts. First off let me ask you this before I even can try to recommend what spine arrow to try, is 25" your draw length with a traditional bow or with a compound?
25" is my draw length with a compound. I guess I didn't realize that it would be different with a longbow.
Honestly the best thing to do is shoot a couple different arrows and see what works best. I personally think that the 1535 would work perfectly with a little cutting BUT if you have an archery shop close to you go get one of each. I would also recommend easton axis 600's. I really like the skinny arrows from my bows. Most shops will sell singles and with your short draw length I bet they even have some they would either give you or sell real cheap.
If you don't have an archery shop close I would be willing to send you a handfull of used arrows to figure out which works best.
Mike
I live in Davenport, IA. In a huge city such as this, you'd think there would be tons of good archery shops...but there isn't!! Two of them sell takedown recurves...but they do not stock any arrows my size. I also do not have my own fletcher, and the shops won't fletch feathers....very strange. I thought about buying one of the "test kits" from 3 Rivers Archery. Maybe that would be the best route to go. I do have some GoldTip 3555 shafts laying around from my compound. They are bare shafts.
Thanks for the replies!! Much nicer than ArcheryTalk..
Welcome Laura. I am not going to try to confuse you more. I think it would be best to find someone close and talk with them. Your draw length may shorten with a trad bow but then again, it may not depending on your anchor.
Also, there are a lot of great arrow smiths on here that will get you very close. I think its easier to keep an arrow full length and play with tip weight however thats not always an option and if you get a 32 inch arrow, you will have 7 +/- inches out front. Not necessarily a bad thing but some people dont like it. just something to consider.
wood isnt as finicky as you may think.
I would think that if your draw length is 25" with a compound then it will probably be about 23.5" or 24" with your longbow. That is going to put your true draw weight somewhere close to 28#-29#. That is definately going to require a .600 spine carbon and possibly weaker with a short draw length like that. I would really recommend trying an 1816 or possibly 1716 alluminum shaft cut to about 29" with a 125 grain tip.
I'm sure alot of folks can give alot better advice on this subject than I can but here I go...My personal preference is carbon arrows. They come from the factory straight, finished, spine tested, tough as nails and ready to roll. All you gotta do is cut 'em to length and find the right point weight and they will last til you miss and hit a rock...miss and lose the arrow...etc. They are easy to maintain, re-fletch, change nocks, change point weights...you name it, they got it for my purposes.
As far as arrows go, its hard for me to say. I bought a Samick Sage thats #35 @ 28 for my wife. She only draws 23" so its very light weight. She has been shooting some GoldTip 3355's cut to 29" that I shoot through my long bow with 200 gr up front out of it. She likes it best with 125 gr up front. I know all of this goes against all common knowledge...and common sense for that matter...on that bow and set up. But it works for her and it hits where shes looking.
What I've been wanting her to try is GoldTip 1535's cut short with a heavier point weight...or full length with a light point weight. The shorter the shaft, the stiffer it will act so you can add more weight up front. The longer the shaft, the weaker it will act so you can shoot lighter weight up front. Or you can luck up and find a happy medium. Tuning is a real pain to me.
I doubt that this helps much but thats all I know from my experiences. Good luck.
I never recommend wood to a beginning trad archer, and most 'pro'shops' cater to compound shooters and don't know a lot about longbows. 3 rivers should be able to guide you to the right carbons or aluminums. Keep us posted on your progress! :shaka:
QuoteOriginally posted by hntngrl:
I live in Davenport, IA. In a huge city such as this, you'd think there would be tons of good archery shops...but there isn't!! Two of them sell takedown recurves...but they do not stock any arrows my size. I also do not have my own fletcher, and the shops won't fletch feathers....
Welcome to the wonderful world of traditional archery!! It will be a little more work but you will love it!! Welcome to Trad Gang!! The folks here are the best and you will definitely find the answers you need and a little more! Don't be afraid to ask....you never know who might jump in and help out.
Good luck.
Laura,
Welcome to Trad Gang. Getting properly tuned arrows will make the transition a great deal of fun
I would contact one of the sponsers, and would serisouly consider Alumnium arrows. Mike at the Nocking Point is a great resource... You need to call him as he doesn't really do email. I would be fairly confident a 3555 would be too stiff of spine, and Possibly even a full length 1535. There are some lighter spine arrows Braveheart Archery is a great source for carbon arrows and could get you started in the right direction.
:archer:
Thanks everyone for the kind words and warm welcome. I will try to find a mentor at the archery club. The older guy who let me try shooting his longbow (it was 50lbs so a little heavy for me, I could only pull it back to about an inch in front of my nose) gave me his grandson's shooting glove that the boy had outgrown. So I think he would help me. I will make sure I post pictures of my new bow once I get it!
If you have some bare shaft 3555's layin' around, just buy the field point test weight package from 3rivers. It will tell you how the arrows are acting and give you a really good idea about what your bow likes best for your shooting style. You will need to bare shaft tune anyways for proper arrow flight.
pamike: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Welcome to the gang Laura!
I'm going to go a bit against the grain here but if your just starting out, don't worry too much about getting perfectly tuned arrows. Just get out there and work on your form. Until your form is consistent and repeatable your not going to get a well tuned arrow even if you have the perfect weight and spine.
Just my .02....
Good luck!
Brad
If your draw is 25" in compound terms, they are most often measured from the inside of the grip, your draw may still be close to 25" in trad terms as we measure to the far side of the bow.
I don't think the 1535 will be too weak at all. Probably too stiff for you. Keep them long and throw some weight on the front to start if you go with them. Maybe find a few used on the classified or get a half dozen blems from big jim. Too many variables with not knowing much about the bow and your actual draw length to really get very close on what you will need.
The best thing is to get some arrows and start shooting working on form and strength at close range and don't worry much about getting the arrows just right. You will not know the difference in an in the ball park arrow and one that is just right until you get your form down some.
I think the best option is probably an aluminum shaft or a carbon 800 maybe. You may even be able to use some 5/16" youth wood arrows just to get something to shoot for now. In addition to sponsors mentioned, you could also try Kustom King.
Hey Laura, I am over by Des Moines. If you are ever around here go to Bearfoot Traditions. An all trad shop in DM. They are open in the evening on weekdays.
I shoot 35-40#@23" and just got some Carbon Express Predator 2 in a 800 spine. I shoot 200 grains up front and they rock! Got them from Big Jim (add up top on the right).
Welcome to the gang!
You might be better off just going to des moines for a saturday and gett some hands on help from the shop listed above they should be able to get you pretty darn close to whats working good for you pluss let you see how they figured it out so you can gain info for your own tinkering later on just a thought
Laura, welcome to Trad Gang! Appreciate your earlier post to my question on Minox Binoculars. As far as arrows I really can't to what the gang above has shared. I am partial to carbons due to their straightness and strength, and since you have already been shooting carbons it seems like a logical place to start!
Hi. I would recommend you check out 3rivers arrow spine calculator.I agree with the other posts that you shouldn't worry too much about arrows until your form is down but it will get you close. after your bow arrives check your draw length and if possible your bows true draw weight. Carbons are probably your best choice because of their availability. I can't even buy aluminums or wood where I live ,but I order aluminums because I can easily modify them at home.don't sweat it good luck and have fun!
Welcome :campfire:
Welcome from MI. :campfire:
Welcome from KY!
Nice buck in your profile pic! :thumbsup:
Here's a link to help with your tuning:
http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
I recommend you going to that trad shop in Des Moines as was mentioned. They should be able to help you with your selection.
Laura,
Welcome to the gang. You will definetly get good advice here.
At your draw length and poundage, I would recommed going to a .700 or .800 carbon shaft. The .600 in my opinion will be overspined for your setup.
I would give Big Jim a call and see what he recommends and can supply you with.
Good luck and don't get discouraged.
Hey TGangers is there anyone out there that might be able to send her a couple to experiment with?
Welcome from Kentucky!
Get a test kit of arrows from archery store or 3rivers.com and start with a 600 spine shaft. Decide on a point weight from 125-150 grains and hot melt glue in your insert (so you can heat and remove it). Begin with the shaft at full length. Then shoot it 6 times or so and see how it flies. Heat and remove the insert and cut a 1/2" or an inch off the shaft, glue in the insert and shoot 6 more. Continue cutting and glueing. Every time you cut it shorter the shaft will get stiffer. You will find the proper spine eventually where the arrow flies the best. Hope this helps.
what swampdrummer said. these should be plenty close enough to start with, and probably the best value if money is an issue.
I know you said no aluminum, but don't nock it till you've tried it. what would break a carbon might only bend an aluminum, and you can straighten them back out enough to shoot some more. if you have fletching equipment/know how, the bare shafts are only 2.75 each. Lancaster Archery is great because you can buy shafts, or most anything, by the "each".
do a google search for "dynamic spine calculator" that will get you real close.
laura,
Not sure if you caught my offer before or not - i have single arrows that i could send you to get you started. PM me your address and i will get them in the mail tomorrow.
I have two daughters that wanted to shoot trad bows .... so that means i have gone thru this twice. I know i have 1535, 3555 and axis 600's in my shed (might be others i cant even remember) I can "steal" a couple and the kids will never miss them. Based on my experiences the 1535 worked great for my daughter that got in your weight/draw range, the axis needed a little more weight up front (and are more expensive) but worked as well.
Let me know
Mike
Laura, Draw length is measured the same way with all bows, 1.75" plus the distance from the string to inest of the grip where hold the bow.
It's the same for compound and recurve.
I think if you are shooting with proper form, your draw length won't change from compound to recruve/longbow. I believe alot of people have this problem of losing draw length becasue they are either overdrawing their compounds to the back of their heads, or they're not coming to full draw with the longbow. It's easy to let your form collapse with a traditional bow, but if you have good form you should keep all your draw length.
Regarding the arrows. I shoot mostly 3555 shafts, from bows around 40-45# @ 25" and at full length I usually need around 175-225grains at the front of the arrow to tune well.
I think that with a 32# draw weifght, you will be best served by some 1535 (or any other .600 spine shaft you like) at or near full length. From there you can use tip weight to get the proper flight. My guess is at full length wqith 100gr point they will be too stiff and at full length with a 250gr point they will be weak ... but somewhere in there is a good tune.
"I only plan on shooting targets until I am good enough to hunt" is the most important thing you posted...we often get newbies on the websites who are just getting started and already asking what weight and type of broadhead they ought to be using...I find that very disturbing since it at least implies that they are thinking about going hunting right away...the learning curve is different for different people...I think everyone should spend at least a year of serious work before even thinking about hunting with a stickbow...good for you for taking that approach...as for what arrows to shoot out of that bow they should be long and round with a pointy thing on one end and a groovy thing and some feathers on the other end...coming from the compound world you think you need to buy arrows by the dozen...you do not...buy, beg, borrow or steal about 3 to start with and then work on your conditioning and form with a big target so as not to lose or damage those three arrows...just get started and the rest will fall into place and when you do go to buy that first dozen arrows you will know what you want...the compound world taught us to look for quick results...the traditional world teaches us to slow down and enjoy the journey
DDave
Good idea, Laura, with asking the older guy to help you out...we old guys are pretty willing to help young guys out...we are pretty much twice as willing to help young ladies out since you tend to be prettier and actually listen to what we tell you
DDave
Hi Laura and welcome to Trad Gang.
I think katie had the best advice. You can do a lot of guessing and even some pretty educated guessing, but nothing beats being able to walk into a trad bow shop and say "OK, fix me up with an arrow that will work" and then try it right there. I'm very fortunate to live within about 10 miles of one of the few trad shops left in southern Michigan. I just got a light (33# @ 28") longbow, which I draw to 29". I like carbon arrows, but they are expensive. I had nothing weak enough for my bow (3555's and even 1535's full length were too stiff). I took my bow to the shop, the owner said "Lets try some 1716s and Bingo! I stacked three of them at 20 yards, which is WAY better than I usually shoot. I have not bare-shafted them and probably wont. With 100gr points, they fly just fine and that may be on the stiff side as they also fly well with 125gr points.
Got your PM and I will send the arrows tomorrow.
Always glad to help get someone else started in this great sport!!
All i want in return is an invite to hunt Iowa :pray: :pray: :pray:
mike
Welcome from Texas!! My advice is find someone who can show you some tips hands on and don't give up on it. Traditional archery is a great sport whether you hunt or just shoot targets. I love watching arrows fly!!
Contact these guys They will get you started off with what you need for a great price and great service. There is a lot of good information here but dont get wrapped up in dynamic spine and so on and so forth. Just get close shoot a couple thousand arrows and then fine tune the arrows to your perfect form and your bow.
https://www.rmsgear.com/store/pc/index_new.asp
Thanks so much to everyone for the outpouring of advice and the offering of sending me arrows to try! This is a great community.
Katie, I will check out that shop the next time I can make it to DesMoines. I'm in graduate school right now to become a chiropractor and its a very busy time for me right now with my national board exams coming up the first week in September.
pamike - Thank you so much for the arrows! I will put them to good use. As for hunting in Iowa, while I'm in school I have one spot to hunt that has plenty of does and little bucks, but the shotgun hunters hit it pretty hard so I haven't seen any big bucks yet. In two and a half years I will be finished with school and we will be looking for some good land to purchase. Start putting in for your preference points and maybe I will have some good land for you to hunt by the time you get drawn :)
Sound like enough advice has been given. So, I will say, good luck, good journey, stay safe and shoot straight!
Welcome from the Pacific North West. :campfire:
i really do have to start getting some points in Iowa so that I can get out there one of these days!!
Hi Laura!
I know you already received a TON of good advice. Here's my set-up just to give you an idea, since we have the same draw length.
I am currently shooting a 36lb. Stalker Stickbow static tip recurve. I shoot Axis traditional shafts, 600 spine at 28" in length. My total arrow weight is 470 grains with a 200 grain tip.
Good luck and have fun! I used to shoot a compound as well and have found that traditional shooting is WAY more fun!!
Aloha,
Staci
Welcome to the gang!
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss315/Mikey1949/DCP01480.jpg) (http://s587.photobucket.com/user/Mikey1949/media/DCP01480.jpg.html)
Welcome, I figured a picture would say it all. One reason to shoot woodies...
The 15/35's(.600 spine will work for you.) I would leave them full length and start with a head at least 275 grains of point weight. If they are a bit weak(I doubt it) than cut off a 1/4" and try again. I really think a .700 spine cut to 27"s with 225 grains up front would get ya very close. You may need a tad more or a tad less point weight but a .700 spine is where ya should really start. Shawn
Arrows are on the way.
1535
3555
Axis 600
Alum 1916 (found that one laying around - not sure what the spine is)
Let me know how they work out
Mike
Welcome to the gang. I have two bows and three sets of limbs, 39#, 43#, and 45# at my 28.5 draw. All setups shoot the GT 15/35 best when cut to 29" and 50 grain insert and 145 gr tips. My 45# will shoot the GT 35/55 at 29" with 100 grain inserts and 175 gr tips for a heavy hunting arrow.
Your setup should shoot the 15/35 (.600) just fine with a 145-175 gr tip or even a .700 spline arrow. Hope that helps.
Laura, WELCOME! Its great to see a young lady new to trad archery and who's listed interests are hunting.
I am another of those ol' geezers who shoots a longbow (actually selfbows) and am just an hour west near Iowa City. I have a workshop with 20 yard indoor range and 100's of arrows. Glad to help you get your bow set up and shooting with proper spine arrows.
I will be in WY from late August through September with Mule Creek Outfitting, but around till then and all fall.
Good Hunting!
Laura,
Shaun knows what he is talking about. Finding local traditional shooters will really get you started on the road.
Pamike: Thanks a lot! I will keep an eye on the mail :)
MikeMost: How did you know my favorite color is pink??? It's my signature style now... If I don't have something pink while hunting or shooting, people ask me what's wrong!
Fisherick: I ordered a field point test kit so hopefully I can test out different point weights.
Shaun: I am absolutely obsessed with hunting, its almost unhealthy.... My husband got me started and since then I have killed a bigger whitetail than him and took him on an African safari. All with the compound though. Even the license plate on my car says HNTNGRL! Tyson has always wanted to try trad so I ordered us each a bow and we are excited to learn together. As for your offer of helping me tune my bow, that would be wonderful!! I'm not sure when I can make it to Iowa City, might have to catch you after your trip. I have my board exams in September so I will be pretty busy until those are over.
I agree with Brad, the first thing I did when I started with my longbow was attepmt to tune arrows. What I didn't realize was how inconsistent my form was. Once I "tuned" me a bit I was much more able to tune arrows.
I would suggest go shoot and have fun then evaluate where you need to go with arrows.
Welcome BTW!
Welcome hntngrl!
Go with katie and bobcatxt. They are shooting very similarly to you and KNOW what works even though the guys could get you close.
I agree on getting your form going decent before tuning arrows. "Masters of the Bare Bow" (I believe it's Vol. 3) with Rod Jenkins has helped me. And "Tuning for Extreme Accuracy" by Byron Ferguson would help also.
Cedar would be my suggestion if you go with wood shafts.
Bare bow 4 with iron mind (clicker) best thing I ever did was call him!!!