For you wood arrow shooters, when you bare shaft do you bare shaft each and every shaft to confirm or just bare shaft one arrow shaft?
With carbon I bare shaft one arrow because they're all basically identical. Can I do the same with woods or is the spine/weight difference going to affect things?
After busting several shafts shooting them un-fletched I only shoot wood arrows grouping same weight field tips and broadheads
I don't bareshaft with wood. Bare shafts tend to get a little sideways and can break when hitting the target. I have great results paper tuning close with fletched shafts. Once I find the right spine, I make my arrows and they shoot great. On a good form day, I find that a 3 lb spine range will shoot bullet holes from 6 ft. I can go another pound either way and still have perfect flight with broadheads.
LittleBen when I bareshaft woodies I shoot a couple at a time and IMO as long as they were properly spined in a group 3-5# there is almost no seen change. I have no problems with woodies flying side ways and breaking on target impact as I hear stated all the time. IMO if they are flying that badly in the first place you are way off on your spine/set up. Start at 10yards til your shaft is flying good and I will go out to 25 yards to fine tune. I have also paper tuned before but prefer to bareshaft, 5in feathers will cover up alot of problems being it from the shooter or the arrow spine
I spine and group them and bareshaft a couple. I do a math calculation first-the bareshafting is 'ceremonial'-just to confirm what I already know. I sometimes shoot bareshafts at 3D shoots to freak people out. :archer:
QuoteOriginally posted by SAVIOUR68:
LittleBen when I bareshaft woodies I shoot a couple at a time and IMO as long as they were properly spined in a group 3-5# there is almost no seen change. I have no problems with woodies flying side ways and breaking on target impact as I hear stated all the time. IMO if they are flying that badly in the first place you are way off on your spine/set up. Start at 10yards til your shaft is flying good and I will go out to 25 yards to fine tune. I have also paper tuned before but prefer to bareshaft, 5in feathers will cover up alot of problems being it from the shooter or the arrow spine
+1. I would just add that I find 4" feathers sufficient for well tuned field points; 5" gives extra insurance for broad heads.
I used to bareshaft my wood arrows back when I shot exclusively wood.Now you can break them if you are way off in spine choice and length.I have broken a few,bnut usally bareshafted my wood arrows at 20 yds,usally started at 10 yds with aluminum and carbon and then moved back.At 10 yds you can break wood shafts them easily if way off.I usally kept a couple bare of different spine groups for testing some new bows later.This is what worked for me.
I bareshaft a couple to get tuned up then fletch away.Good quality shafts were a must for me, almost gave up on wood using shafts from different places and trying to bareshaft, many problems as a result of my inexperience with wood, poor quality shafts just multiplied them. That I believe is why aluminum was so easy for me, they were consistent. But then I found surewoods, problems were greatly reduced. Lots of good shafts from sponsors on tradgang. I love wood shafts, enjoy making them, Surewoods just give me a good starting point and for me that was important.
Darin, I've onyl used surewood's Doug Fir so far in terms of wood shafts and I love them ... I'd better since I'm basically swimming in arrow shafts since I bought one of those 100 packs in 50-55# spine ...
Bjorn, that's funny. I've done it too and had guys ask me if they could lone me an arrow with fletch to finish the shoot. I've had wood arrows tuned well enough to group nicely at 40 yards and beyond.
I have never bareshafted wood arrows. Always verified the spine was correct, then cut them 1.5" longer than my draw. Old school....
Little Ben sounds like you made a good choice!!!!