Just wanted to hear some carbon arrow set ups for a 60# longbow like a Kanati.
CX heritage 350 is a great shaft for that weight.
AD Trads.
Heritage 250s may work, or GT trad 55-75s
I was looking more for how much weight and what size points others are using.
I shoot AD Trads at 30.5" bop with 100 gr brass insert and 300 gr points out of my 62# Cari-Bow Slynx. This puts my arrows at about 760-780 grains with the nocks, four fletch and cap dip.
I'm a dyed in the wool, longbow and wooden arrow guy. That said, I was talked into trying AD trads by two very old time stickbow legends. After baulking for years, I gave them a try in two of my longbows that I draw greater than 60-pounds. All I can say is they were the single easiest arrows to shoot well I've ever used. The weight forward tapered design appears to work as advertised, and all the praise given these shafts by the two old gents proved true.
As good as they perform, I still fall back on wooden arrows, as working with wood is a big part of my archery fun. But, my limited experience with the AD Trads have been most positive.
Best :)
I have two set ups for my 60# R/D with an 8 strand D10 string and beaver balls. CE-250 29.25" with a standard insert and 250 grains up front for a total wt. pretty close to 600 grains. The second is a CE-350 28.875" with a 100 gr. insert and 250 up front for total wt of 720 grains. Both are fletched with 3x5" feathers.
AD Trads!
I have a quillian bamboo longhunter its 57#@26 I pull 28" shooting GT 5575 30BOP WITH 175 TIPS work good for me
At the moment I'm shooting gt 5575's with 175 grain points and 50 grains behind the insert. Maybe I need to add some more weight.
I'm doing full length 55-75 G/T with 100 gr. brass behind 175 gr b/heads and 5" parabolics. 60 lb Lost Creek Life Ender
I shoot a 60# Pronghorn with GT trad 55/75 30BOP, 100 gr insert and 175 or 200 gr head with 5" shields.
QuoteOriginally posted by tex-archer:
At the moment I'm shooting gt 5575's with 175 grain points and 50 grains behind the insert. Maybe I need to add some more weight.
What length do you have them cut to?
On my 60# thunderchild and 58# kanati I'm running 340 trad only cut to 29.5 with 100 grn inserts and 175 simmons tigershards. Running long wraps from Big Jim's and 3 5" trueflights, they fly like darts. I'm drawing right at 28"s
I draw 29" and like my arrows 30-31" . Standard insert with 145 grain points so I can shoot Woodsmans
I like 5575's cut to 29.5" 100 grain insert and 190 grain interceptors up front. I draw 28" bow is a 62 pound Monarch longbow.
Mine are 28 3/4" long. I ordered some brass 100 grain inserts that I'm gonna try with my 175 grain points.
Maddog Mountaineer 64" Reflex longbow, 62# @ 27.5". Arrow: Easton Axis 400, 29", 75 gr. insert, 100 gr. point, 130 gr. wt tube, total arrow wt. 580 gr., 9.3 gpp. 5" shield feathers. This is working good for me, hope it helps. Small world, I grew up in Cleburne, near the State Park.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear Heart:
CX heritage 350 is a great shaft for that weight.
X2 :readit:
I shoot CX 350's 31.5" with 200 gn up front on my Wesley Special that pulls 60# @ 28".
GT7595 , 30.5 BOP, 320gr up front. about 675grains
i find with a cut past centre 60lb bow, that 5575s max out at 160gr, even at 29" BOP. these are about 500 grains
it just depends how heavy and how long you want your arrow as to which you should choose. I wanted 10gpp and at least 30" because my gaps are much more manageable with the longer arrow (23" at 15, 20 and 25 yards :)
Fanto, what do you mean by max out?
tex-archer
i mean that the maximum weight that the 5575 can carry up front, from a 60lb cut to centre bow, is 160gr. more than that and they spine weak. all of this assumes 29" length.
if you cut them down, you can shoot more weight.
this is what ive found bareshafting and paper tuning. in particular paper tuning. at 160gr i get bullet holes, at 220gr i get a left tear.
Need more info. but if you draw 28"s than a .400 spine carbon cut to 29.5"s will be the ticket. You will have to experiment with point weight cause a lot of stuff influences the correct spine your bow needs, string type, silencers, and such. A good starting point would be that 29.5" .400 spine with 250 grains up front. Than play with it until you get the flight you want. Fanto I am sorry is flat wrong, I know guys who are shooting 60# longbows with 29" 55/75s and they are shooting 275-325 grains of point weight. I find that funny as I shoot a .500 spine cut to 29.5"s out a high performance 54# recurve and shoot 190 grains up front, too get a .400 spine to fly well out of the same bow cut to 29.5"s I need 300 grains of point weight and maybe more never finished tuning to see. Shawn
QuoteOriginally posted by Fanto:
Hi Shawn,
I respect your view on this, I am sure you have much, much more experience than I.
Perhaps I am too concerned with what the bareshaft and paper tuning is tellimg me, which is the same as what Stu Miller's calculator tells me. Perhaps none of this is important? I just want good arrow flight in the end, I dont care if im right or wrong.
I have also come accross people shooting 3555s with 275 up front, 29" long, out of 70lb before centre annd 60lb to centre bows. they got fine arrow flight.
Ill give you some specifics on the setup, if you would comment it would be great.
Bow: Martin hunter, late model, 62", 60#@28, drawn 28. Arrows: 5575s, 29" carbon length , 100gr brass insert. cut 3/16 past centre.
to paper tune: standing 6 yards away from a paper frame.
Shot fletched arrows 3555s, 5575s, 7595s with varying point weights.
3555s bareshafted 1 foot right of the fletched group with 220 grs up front.
the 5575 tore left 1" with the 120gr points (220 total) dropped to 100, 80 then 60gr points. got single holes at 60gr points. broadheads dont come in 60gr, so went to 7595.
7595s, left at 29.5 as I knew i was going to need a lot of weight even at that length. Straight to 220gr points, 100gr inserts. Paper tuned as above, single holes.
Bareshaft tuning: bareshafts group average 1-2" right of fletched groups. nock always a bit left.
let me know what you think?
thanks
Hi
I have two setup
Light= 5575(400) cut on 29" , insert 50 grain + 175 point and that is 8.6 GPP , good for 3D and some deer .
but :-) , hogs love heavy ! So , i have Heavy setup
7595(300) cut on 31" , insert 50 and point 250 grain
Boooho :-) . They are bad like sin .
I think i will use only heavy setup
____________________________________________________
i forget to tell you , you must do bare shaft test !
I draw 29" and shoot 60# I would recommend Carbon Express 350's with 250 gr. head, or Gold Tip 75/95 with 250 gr. head. I would recommend bare-shaft testing to get the proper length. Works well for me.
I have gold tip 55/75's that shoot great out of one of my longbows that is 61# but they always hit nock high with a bare shaft out of my other 61# longbow. The gold tips are 28 3/4", 100 grain insert and 175 grain point. The bare shafts hit the same point as the fletched but they are always nock high. Should I be worried about that or call it good?
" The best way I've found to figure that out is to bare shaft tune them (if you haven't already).
I'll take the arrows that I think should be in the right spine category, add the tip I want on a full length shaft,
then shoot them with no feathers at 5 or 10 yards.
If they tail to the right, they're too stiff, so try adding more point weight.
If they tail left, they're too weak. Cut them down, starting a half inch at a time from the nock end, and repeat.
you'll see them get closer to straight. When you're getting close, only take 1/4" off at a time. If they're cut down as far as you can get them and still spine weak, try reducing point weight. (this doesn't seen to have as much effect on super stiff arrows). If it still spines weak, then you need to get a stiffer spined arrow and try again.
Once I learned how to do this, it DRAMATICALLY improved my shooting. Charts only do so much good, there are several variables that they can't really account for, and self tuning them is the way to go in my opinion."
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/222644_563942876949693_180643197_n.jpg)
Well now this is a fairly well debated point . Byron ferguson says yes, OL adcock says no don't worry, I'm sure there will be opinions here.
Read this: http://www.archersreference.co.uk/download.html
My view is no it doesn't, so long as the fletched shafts fly perfectly and I check that by paper tuning.
QuoteOriginally posted by tex-archer:
I have gold tip 55/75's that shoot great out of one of my longbows that is 61# but they always hit nock high with a bare shaft out of my other 61# longbow. The gold tips are 28 3/4", 100 grain insert and 175 grain point. The bare shafts hit the same point as the fletched but they are always nock high. Should I be worried about that or call it good?
nock high or down is not problem , (nock left or right IS PROBLEM)
this should not concern you, it is your release or material (leather, with the hair, etc) for shelf
QuoteOriginally posted by Fanto:
Well now this is a fairly well debated point . Byron ferguson says yes, OL adcock says no don't worry, I'm sure there will be opinions here.
Read this: http://www.archersreference.co.uk/download.html
My view is no it doesn't, so long as the fletched shafts fly perfectly and I check that by paper tuning.
Sorry mate , but bare shaft test is basic of tuning .
"fletched shafts fly perfectly"
how to get to that part, to fly well?
By accident?
What if do not fly well? That removes feathers, cut arrows and it all over again? It is far more difficult way for the traditional bow, for the other bows is ok
QuoteOriginally posted by bowfanatik:
QuoteOriginally posted by tex-archer:
I have gold tip 55/75's that shoot great out of one of my longbows that is 61# but they always hit nock high with a bare shaft out of my other 61# longbow. The gold tips are 28 3/4", 100 grain insert and 175 grain point. The bare shafts hit the same point as the fletched but they are always nock high. Should I be worried about that or call it good?
nock high or down is not problem , (nock left or right IS PROBLEM)
[/b]
See OL"s tuning guide says to ignore the shaft angle in the target.
It seems to me we should aim for bareshaft arrows dead straight in the target but what the heck do I know anyway.
If is OL = Olimpic bow--recurve
This is not what will help him, he has no arrow rest that adjusts ...... like I said for the other bows that's ok (https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS9k7Prx9J4rK7EFXLbRbxNXUuiOR7xSoaPXevDuhTYnSB604Dp)
OL adcock!! He knows a lot about bows and arrows. And tuning. He holds fligt records.
If you read the archers reference, they tune with a stiff plunger to sort out the arrow spine, then use the plunger to get to perfection. So the principles are the same
I give up :dunno:
Bowfanatik, me too.
Sorry double post
The bare shafts are grouping with the fletched shafts so they are tuned job done.
By the way, what are you taking about cutting off feathers? You need some fletched some bareshafts to do your tuning so you always have both on hand.
Sorry but Stu Millers calculator has everyone overspined that I have seen! It is common sense, why shoot an arrow designed to be shot out of 65 compounds out of 60# trad biws, unless left super long or add a tOn of weight up front! Shawn
Shawn
You keep saying that. My 7595s are 10lbs under on stu millers calculator. 29.5, 320 up front. 3/16 past centre cut bow.
Bow dynamic spine, 72lbs. Arrow spine, 62lbs.
5575 with the same length and weight , spine 42lbs or 30lbs under.
??
Maybe my calculators broke
Depending on arrow length or how much weight you plan to use up front I would say either a 350 or 400 spine arrow. I just started carrying the Black Eagle line of arrows and so far I am VERY impressed with their performance and durability! The two models I stock are the Carnivores and Zombie Slayers. The Zombies are a little heavier gpi but both are solid performers. If there is a downside they do not yet come in a "Traditional" type finish. But so far everyone that has tried them has been very happy with the results. If you like you can read more about them at the link below.
http://www.simplytraditional.net/products-page/blackeagle/
Right now I only have raw shafts on the website but I will be offering finished arrows within the next week or two.
On a side note, I have a 60@28 Hill style bow showing up sometime this week and will be tuning an arrow for this bow and might be able to provide additional suggestions at that time.
Good luck!
Success!!! Thanks to everyone who offered tips I got my new bow tuned today. Went from 175 grain tips to 150 grain tips and from 12 to 23 yards the unfletched shaft hits straight and is with my fletched shafts.
Phew!
Good for you sir, happy shooting!
Easton Axis 400, 29" shaft,
26" 5 gpi weight tube, 130 gr
105 gr Muzzy,
75 gr. brass insert
Total arrow wt. 580 gr.
62# Maddog Mountaineer reflex longbow
i ran some of the arrows in this thread through Stu's calc here are their dynamic spines:
Texarcher: 58# (with 100gr brass + 150gr)
Pete McMiller: 56.6# and 59#
Possum: 39#
tomcfull: 64.8#
Bruinmann: 50.3#
recurve rookie: 73#
treehermit :65.4#
Fanto: 62#
Shawn's reccomendations: 44# - 53#
Sorry people know how I feel about Stu'd calculator run the numbers all you want. I get more e-mails and PM's for arrow advise than I can count and get 95% or more of the people very close the first time and I don't need numbers, strike plate thickness, how far the bow is cut past center. I use real world experience from owning 120 different custom bows the last 17 years and experimenting with carbons for about 15 of that. I also have seen what a lot of guys say is perfect arrow flight and I really have to laugh. Shoot what ya want and have fun, just don't use Stu's calculator or my advise for that matter, experiment yourself and enjoy it, thats half the fun. Shawn
Now THAT is some good advice Shawn!
:campfire:
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear Heart:
CX heritage 350 is a great shaft for that weight.
That's what I use