Its wierd but I'm sitting in Kandahar thinking about the upcoming hunting season. I was thinking about my bears and tuning when it hit me. I've never been concerned with the strike plate width. I have tuned a lot of arrows to a lot of bows without ever being concerned about the strike plate.
Please educate me on Strike Plate materials, width and tuning.
As long as you can tune the arrow to the bow, there is no use in messing with it.
Hap
I just recently started playing with the 3 Rivers version of Stu Miller's dynamic spine calculator...it has a slot to enter the thickness of the strike plate on your bow...I was coming up with some very odd numbers until someone reminded me that the thickness of the strike plate can be quite critical...so I got out the dial calipers and started measuring some...I now know for instance that a Bear Weatherrest is pretty much a tenth of an inch thick, about double what I would have guessed...I am from Canada and will still thank you for your service to your country...we have lost quite a few people in that area...not a nice place to be
DDave
it definitely can make a difference, depending on whether your riser is cut not quite to center, just to center, or past center. I shoot a Sheepeater Spirit (very short 50" static recurve) that was being kind of critical of the GT 3555's I was shooting with it. at 51#, I knew it was right at the dividing line between one spine and the next.
I was changing point weights, nocking point, and was about to start cutting the shafts down to stiffen them up, when a friend suggested sticking a little bit thicker piece of leather on my existing strike plate, thereby building it out some. lo and behold, that's all it took to dial in like a laser. of course, with longbows mostly not being cut to center, it can be more of a problem than with most recurves, but it's definitely not something to overlook, particularly if you've tried other remedies without success.
good luck!
Agree. Strike plate thickness, or more accurately the degree of center shot, makes a difference in the arrows dynamic spine. Closer to center weakens, further from center stiffens. Also the texture of the strike plate can play a part if its soft and pliable or stiff and rigid.
Many ILF bows can be fitted with a plunger to allow for adjustment of center shot and resistance.
I admire you...if I was in your neighborhood I would not have the mental strength to think about the strike plate! Big thx for your service...also hats off to Dave from Alberta Canada who thanked you for you service to the U.S...that's a good neighbor!
Material and thickness type introduce multiple variables.
Just for a ball park figure example....
Bow is shooting left ~8"s at 20 yards utilizing an ~.075 leather shelf pad.
Replace leather pad with Velcro which will move the arrow right ~4"s.
Replace Velcro with a Martin Pad which will move the arrow right another ~4"s.
Note: The shelf padding may be effected in the a similar way except the increments will be in the magnitude of 2"s vs 4"s.
Have been working with a Morrison that was driving me up a wall searching for consistency. Knowing that part of the problem was the shooter--still looking for a more forgiving setup. Put a tiny strip of leather under the bottom and sideplate and these high points drew it all together. It is perfect--now to work out the shooters problems. Thanks, Roy
Friend brings up a good point that I think Rick Welch promotes, tuning your bow to your shot or something like that. You can have properly tuned arrows that hit right, left or were your looking, that's three different setups for three different amounts of center shot.
And I also thank you for your service WhiteOaks.
Thanks guys.
Good points all around.
I believe this is a critical piece to tuning I've been missing. I have a lot of bows and I think it would be more practical and cheaper to learn more about the strike plate and its affect on accuracy.
Does anyone have any ideas about what works best for material. I use velcro so I could add layers. Add match or tooth pick. Leather. I don't know what's best for the tuning process.
It would be nice to have a multi layered strike plate that you could peel the top layer off until you find the right width.
Gotta be an easy way.
As for thinking about hunting while in Afghanistan, it keeps me sane. This place s!@#ks.
Each 1/16" equals about 5# when tuning wood either up or down. I don't know anything about aluminum or carbon.
Bjorn,
Thanks for the tip.
That helps.
There are two ways to tune a bow - tune your arrow to shoot good from your bow or tune your BOW to shoot the arrow where you look (this is done as mentioned above and is how Rick Welch teaches). For me hands down the Rick Welch method is far better. I can tune an arrow to fly good - but if it consistently hits right or left then I have to relearn each bow I shoot. However, If I tune my bow (through arrow pad manipulation) to shoot naturally where I look - then I can pick up bow after bow and be on (at lease as far as right/left).
So whats the easiest way to figure out the right strike plate with?
Someone suggested adding layers of electrician tape to determine the right width, then adding a match or toothpick under the existing strike plate.
Any more Ideas?
I like to cut a short piece of an old wood arrow and split it to get the thickness I need and put it behind the strike plate, which for me is a thin piece of leather.
Chuck
Chuck,
That sounds like a good idea.
This will not help with the thickness issue...I believe the best shelf material is seal skin....tough and slippery with the hair on...tough to get in the States...you might be able to get it sent to Afghanistan... I also really like the forgiveness of a featherrest
I now tune all my longbows and recurves with the pile side of velcro, Why? Because it is quiet, very durable, has self-sticking tape and I can get it at any drug store, wal mart, etc... across the country. I use double-sided carpet tape (also available at most wal marts) to build out side plate as needed.
I'll have to check out the seal skin and thanks for all the tips.
Can you stack the velcro or is it best to place something under 1 layer?
Randy,
I have been stacking velcro with good results on both the strike plate and arrow rest. I have an old Plainsman recurve with a flat shelf. I build up the arrow rest with shorter strips of velcro under the piece I shoot off of to give the rest a little radius which helps shootability. The strike plate I just build out with equal size layers of velcro.
It seems like a lot of guys build the rest up as well.
I've never tried that before but I may just have to give it a shot.
I won't get home until sometime in SEPT. so I'll be rushed to get ready for the season. Rushed is better than no season so I'll take my chances.
Double sided sticky back cqrpet tape in layers as needed under your chosen side plate or rest material is what Rick teaches. Velcro for durability is about as good as it gets. Works great for me. moving the point of impact left is fairly easy,...more layers of tape.
If you have to move further right and are at your thinnest material, I guess it's time to weaken the arrow spine.
I'm still working on a Bear I have, to try to move it right...it's kicking my butt.
Irv,are you right or left handed, I'm not an authority by any means, but as I understand Ricks bow tunning from his videos, thin and hard moves the arrow left for a right hander, thick and soft moves it right.
I really like just a calf hair plate or super thin piece of leather for my bows. In my experience having thinner strike plates (thus having a closer center shot) makes a bow much easier to tune, and it will usually tune in with more than one arrow set up than if you used a thicker strike plate.
I have definately been missing the boat on this one.
My first project when I return.
Thanks for all the advice.
QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
I really like just a calf hair plate or super thin piece of leather for my bows. In my experience having thinner strike plates (thus having a closer center shot) makes a bow much easier to tune, and it will usually tune in with more than one arrow set up than if you used a thicker strike plate.
that is definitely true, unless you are spined a bit weak like I was. then, it's the opposite. it definitely proves the point that strike plate width CAN make a difference on borderline setups. :bigsmyl:
Who sells the Martin style strike pads?