Hi gang,
yesterday I got to shoot for the first time my new AD Trad and Hammer head.
Here's the question. I just installed the insert and a field point and started shooting. I've notice that I wasn't getting fish tailing but I was getting nock low. I've raised the nock point and they started flying like bullets. But for the older arrows, CE Heritage, I had to get the nock point down to get them fly strait.
Is this normal?
Can this have anything to do with the tapered design?
I haven't tuned them properly yet, just got half an hour to get my curiosity taken care off, but I was wondering if I won't be able to change arrows from CE to AD without having to change nock height.
Opinions...
Thanks
I'm not experienced with either of the shafts you mentioned, but don't think it's all that unusual to notice subtle tuning changes when switching shafts. There are so many variations in spine, shaft diameter, nock ear width, tightness, etc. I'm not surprised. I shot Beman/Easton skinnies for years and loved them, but the combination of reduced shaft diameter and thin nock "ears" would magnify the shaft angle caused by my nock set height and I always re-tuned for those.
Grib has it about right. Mark your current nock set or record it and retune.
When I switched from GT 600's to the skinnier VAP 600's, I had to lower my nock point. Probably a good thing to check whenever you change to a new arrow.
If the two shafts are very different in diameter it sure can make a difference.
Bisch
With the same bow my nock height varied from lower with the skinny Beman MFX carbons to higher with 11/32" wood.
It seems to be the case. The thing is, in the nock end, AD are thinner then CE, so I thought I should have to lower the nock point. On the other hand, on the front end AD are thicker then CE. When drawn the thicker part of the arrow is in contact with the rest plate and this should be the reason wy I need to get the nock point higher. Does this makes sense?