I received Byrons New DVD in the mail yesterday. It is titled "Tuning for Extreme Accuracy", the DVD runs aprox 43min and focuses on Byrons tuning techniques.
If you have seen BareBow 101, Byron goes into a little bit about adjusting nock height and brace height to "fine tune" your bareshaft for straight flight, but leaves a lot of questions. With the new DVD he starts with setting up the bow, and using arrow charts to get you close to the spine you may need. From there he shows how he bareshaft tunes starting from a full length arrow, by cutting down a little at a time until your get a straight stick in the target. After words he checks with paper tune.
He then goes into detail about "ultra fine tuning" with silencers, contact point, brace height etc. I get the vibe from his body language and tone that this is something he proabaly doesn't concern himself with all too much, but the info is there if you are tinkerer.
Now, as with all of his videos and videos made by people who are sponsored, there are plugs in there for products such as the illuminock, tip velociter, Heavy hunter arrows etc, but it is not done in a manner that takes away from the film. And lets face it, he is sponsored and he needs to promote the products.
Overall I feel it is a great video, done in a manner that more closely relates to how I have 'TRIED" to tune before as the O.L. Adock method is not for me. I will try it out on some arrows I have laying around here that should work for my bow. I will give ya'll an update on it later.
Brian
Thanks, I'll have to try that. I never liked OL's method either, and preferred the method taught by Ken Beck. Ken's method stops with the arrow, however, and I have always been interested in the ultra fine techniques you mention.
Ok, so i took some time off of getting my house ready to sell and stepped outside with the goal of actually tunning some arrows for the first time in my life. I typically by arrows fletched and just change out points and BH until they fly like I want.
my bow is a JD Berry Morningstar 50@26" drawing 26". I shoot three under so I started my nock at 5/8". Arrows were full length bemoan ICS 500, and I want to shoot 175grn tips. Following Byrons instructions, I ended up with 28 1/4" BOP with 175 gr FP and 175 grn Woodsman elite BH. I stopped when I thought the bare shaft was close and I fletched up three arrows. I shot 3 FP and WOW. So thats what its like to have an arrow fly right!!!! So the real test was my BH and 3 out of 3 in the bull at 20yds.
I stepped back to 60 yds just to see the arrows fly and it is unbelievable. I had read all about tuning inside and out but was always skeptical to start cutting shafts for fear of running them and losing money, but I am beyond blown away. Next weekend I am going to tune up my Vixen and Misty Dawn the same way and see what happens.
My vixen is fine I believe as my BH are hitting with my FP so I wont do much but shoot some BS just to see.
The misty dawn just lost her arrows because I donated them to the Morningstar for practice and it worked out.
Finished arrows are 437 grains for 8.64 GPP. and they are sweet.
Oh and after running the numbers thru the spine calculator my arrow has a dynamic spine of 58.8 and my bow a dynamic spine of 48.8. I don't know where put the infer in wrong at but thats what I came up with.
Sounds like an interesting video. I know somebody who loves to tinker, he would love it. Thanks. God bless.
Thanks for the input brian, good luck with the rest of your tuning!
QuoteOriginally posted by Brianlocal3:
Oh and after running the numbers thru the spine calculator my arrow has a dynamic spine of 58.8 and my bow a dynamic spine of 48.8. I don't know where put the infer in wrong at but thats what I came up with.
Glad you were successful in your tuning process. There's nothing like the confidence you get when you're getting really true, great arrow flight. :thumbsup:
The biggest problem people have with the spine calculator is that they fail to enter the correct amount of center shot their bow has and fail to realize just how important this entry is in relation to finding the correct arrow for their bow. Just being a little off makes a HUGE difference. The thickness of the side plate MUST be considered in the measurement entered for it to work right and be an accurate guide for tuning.
As for me personally, I've always found that the method O.L. Adcock describes works flawlessly for me with every bow/arrow combo I've tried it with.
Thanks for the review, I still like to bare shaft plane and incorporate the fine tuning methods you describe. Confidence in your set up is good.
Ishoot,
thanks, it does feel great to have utmost confidence in the set up. Knowing that is tuned it and didn't just luck into a good flying shaft is great.
For those who have perfected the O.L. Adcock method, like yourself, this way will seem rudimentary I'm sure, but for the tuning challenged like myself this method was a lifesaver. Thanks for the comment.
Ttt for anyone interested
QuoteOriginally posted by Brianlocal3:
Oh and after running the numbers thru the spine calculator my arrow has a dynamic spine of 58.8 and my bow a dynamic spine of 48.8. I don't know where put the infer in wrong at but thats what I came up with.
Have you tinkered with the Person Form Factor on the spine calculator? (I assume you are talking about Stu Miller's calculator)
If you input an arrow that you know is properly tuned and it does not match your bow, you can adjust the PFF until you get them to match.
After you get that matched up, always leave the PFF set at that number. In the future (at least in my experience) you can input any arrow combination that matches your bow and it will be real close to right straight out of the calculator.
Bisch
Always interested in a exploring an improved possibly more simplistic method.
Did bareshaft tune at 30 yards, three different set-ups out of three different bows. For kicks, I shot all three thru paper and all provided bullet holes 3 out of 4 times. Note: One can only tune as well as one can shoot. Also, shot BH's out of all three set-ups at ~3 yards and 25 yards....all set-ups were golden.
Today, I bareshaft tune back to 40 yards. Hopefully, shooting form improvements will permit me to extend that range. Often times my shooting sessions and occasionally when shooting 3D's, I strictly shoot bare shafts. Note: Olympic archers may bare shaft tune out to 70 yards.
If there is an improved and more simplistic method, I am all ears.
Scott, you are far better than I bud. Thus why I opt for the simpler method. :)
May i ask how you trim your arrows while paper tuning?
- assuming you trim the end that has the nock in it..
If papertuning, I trimmed from the point end. I didn't put anything in the insert I just pushed them in so I could them out later.
When you fellows bare shaft do you have the bow perfectly vertical or shoot with your natural cant?
I shot with my natural cant like Byron showed.
Thanks Brian - just ordered my copy from Kustom King - along with a few other goodies ;-)
I have done well with O.L. Adcock's method but I am always open minded to other's thoughts and method's. I may try Mr. Ferguson's method soon.
Mostly I use OL's method. I shoot bareshafts with the bow perfectly vertical, canting will affect the flight. I bareshaft out to 25 yards to check what I worked out on paper beforehand.
QuoteOriginally posted by Brianlocal3:
I shot with my natural cant like Byron showed.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Mostly I use OL's method. I shoot bareshafts with the bow perfectly vertical, canting will affect the flight. I bareshaft out to 25 yards to check what I worked out on paper beforehand.
This is what I haven't ever figured out with bare shafting.... One of the most awkward feeling I know of is shooting my bow perfectly vertical. I usually do it enough to get me pretty close and then slap four 5" feathers on and my broadheads fly fine. :knothead:
Blaino,
I feel your pain. I tried holding vertical in all my failed attempts before. This time I just did as the video showed without over thinking and viola, it works for me, others mileage may vary.
Bran....Perhaps I may be fortunate enough to see in-person your tuning method after you relocate to my area next month.
Scott? I just got official word today, they want me in Paduca on the 22nd. A month early so wrenches were thrown in my plans but at least I got the job
Brian...Life often throws us a curve. Since you can hit one, you will be in fine shape.
Congrats on capitalizing your new job opportunity and please accept an early welcome to Kentucky.
Thank you Scott. I look forward to slinging some with ya.
QuoteOriginally posted by Blaino:
When you fellows bare shaft do you have the bow perfectly vertical or shoot with your natural cant?
I use my natural cant.
why would you want to tune a bow using one technique (holding straight) then change to another (cant) ? If it works both ways, shoot it as it is comfortable to you (cant). If it doesn't translate or work both ways. . . its gonna change on you anyways.
Not computing. . .
ChuckC
Not to sound stupid but what does BH BS FP stand for ??
Walter,
I use them for Bareshaft (BS). Field point (FP) and brace height (BH) or broadhead (BH).
Thank you Brian! Another question... When you tune your other bows I assume you use a whole new set of arrows that will go for that bow? And not tone the bow to the arrows? So when all is done, if you have four different bows , some with the same specs , you still need a dedicated set of arrows?
In theory, that would be great. And I do right now have a set of arrows for each bow, BUT I have some arrows that fly well from multiple bows. I keep a BS around and if I want to try out an arrow ill just switch point weights. My CX 90s fly we'll with 175 from the vixen and fly from the Morningstar with 145. The same cx90s fly good from my misty dawn too.
Best bet would be for "optimal" performance a dedicated set is best but I have found I can fudge a bow /arrow combo around to work.
QuoteOriginally posted by Friend:
Brian...Life often throws us a curve. Since you can hit one, you will be in fine shape.
Congrats on capitalizing your new job opportunity and please accept an early welcome to Kentucky.
Woot! Woot! Congratulations Brian!!
Your driving distance from the great state of Missouri didn't increase by much....lol still just beyond the mighty Mississippi river.
As a youngster I made that crossover at Charleston MO into KY and back many times.(brings back many memories)
God bless,Mudd
I love a finely tuned arrow!!!! I just got home so I snuck out to sling a doz arrows. Haven't shot in 3 days and bam , bam , bam. Just on target. Gotta love it.
My 500s are 432 grains which is 8.64 GPP so with my new found tuning knowledge I grabbed some 400s, put in 100 grn inserts and a 175 point and got to cutting. Perfect flight at 29" so I weighed them and they are 532 grains which make 10.64 GPP. You can do anything without fear once you get the tuning down.
TTt for the tuning challenged like I was
I ordered the DVD about an hour after it was first advertized and it is really done well. Lots of good info... :thumbsup:
Great video and some very good info there.
Since people are comparing his method to OL, could someone provide a brief explanation of the difference between the two?
Texas,
OL has you shooting 3 fletched , 3 BS all other things equal in the arrows untill they are all grouping together at 20 or so yards.
Byron has you standing 10 steps (yards) from a bag target. Shooting in to it and cutting the shaft down until it is reasonably striaght in the target. Then adjust nock height untill up and down its reasonably straight. Then shoot your fletched arrow and see how she does. Where I usually stop at means I have good arrow flight but I MAY need to tweak brace height up or down a smudge. Then go out and shoot a broadhead of the same weight as your FP and in my case its been good to go.
For ME its just a much simpler method and my results are still finely tuned arrows.
Thanks for the clarification Brian.