Hey guys this may sound like a dumb question but here goes. I recently bought a 58lb @28" whisperstik voodoo stik which I pull to exactly 28". I have 8 goldtip 5575s with full length weight tubes which are cut to 30 inches and weigh approximately 570 grains with a 125 grain point. I'm not sure on the cut on the riser. So here's my question: When shooting these arrows they fly good most of the time but do kick to the right occasionally. However when I shoot them with my 190 simmons interceptors and tree sharks, they kick and wobble almost all the time. So does that mean they are too weak? If so what should I do? Should I cut them an inch or two? I'm shooting 3 5" parabolic feathers so would 5.5" make a difference? I'd love to keep shooting these arrows instead of buying new ones so any help would be greatly appreciated! And if you're wondering I had these arrows from when I shot a 54lb black widow MA. Thanks!
You've got 65g margin of point weight to play with, I'd start there before you cut something. Tail right---> EDIT: whole arrow hitting right (brain fart/ that's what I meant) on the 125s yes good chance you're too stiff. Jumping to the 190's- sure a 65g shift might put you weak..I'd try some points in between 125 and 190 and see where you stand. You can also play with brace height to get where you wanna be. And also make sure you're getting a clean release.
All Im saying is you have options before you cut. I'd avoid cutting and tweak the point weight and brace height and clean release before Id cut an arrow.
If I remember correctly, right kick on a lefty arrow is an indicator of weak spine. On the other hand, that's generally when all or most of the arrows do the same thing. If only some of them kick right then you may have a form or release issue. That's what I'd work on first.
John
Listen to John. As a lefty who has shot every imaginable combination of arrow, insert and point/head, I can say invariably that if you do not get that bow drawn exactly the same EVERY SINGLE SHOT, you can expect ANY THING to happen with a carbon arrow. Here is another place where "one shot" practice can be invaluable. Take one arrow only. Set it up however you like. Shoot it and it alone. Shoot it and then think about every thing you saw it do. Think about everything you did during the shot. Shoot it until you are exhausted. Put a mark on it with a magic marker and then shoot another one the next time you practice...until you have shot them all. This will give you an idea of how they react during many instances. Plus, you will more likely draw the same if you put the time it takes to walk to the target to retrieve the arrow between each shot.
Kicking right (hitting right) shows stiff spine when shooting lefty. Opposite for RH shooting.
Bare shaft- tail right = weak, tail left = stiff.
I would refletch 1 arrow with a 5-5 1/2 feather first. Try a shield cut.
He's not saying tail right. The entire arrow is going right, and that's a stiff spine for a lefty. On the other hand, it could be a form problem as folks have pointed out. I'm a righty, and when I pluck my release, my arrows go left.
I have come to the conclusion that when speaking about visuals on arrow flight we need to always use the expression "what I think I saw the arrow do"...I am just not sure that we can maintain consistent form while focusing on watching arrow flight...the other question I would have is if arrow tuning is as difficult, or as critical, as some would have us believe how have so many game animals been killed with traditional equipment...surely not all of those killing shots involved perfectly tuned arrows...I spend my time practicing rather than tuning
DDave
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I was unaware that adjusting the braceheight would affect arrow flight but I was changing it when I shot yesterday. I will continue to work on my form and probably get a few arrows fletched with some 5.5s for the heck of it. Who said traditional was simple ha thanks again
I think you are way overspined.I draw around 29" 58lb 270 up front and found that 5575 where always shooting to the right then tryed the same weight tip on a 3555 and it was perfect.And i always use a broadhead to tune a arrow field tips hide bad arrow flight.Hope this helps.
Good points Damascus dave. I buy my arrows close to the spine I think I'll need, cut them to the length I want, glue on the field point or broadhead I want, fletch them and go shoot. I rarely have bad arrow flight. If so, I'll tinker with point weight a bit, or perhaps the bow's side plate. Almost never need to mess with brace height or nocking point. Been doing it that way with woodies for more than 50 years. It works just as well with carbons. All this tuning to the nth degree is rather silly, IMO. Very few of us can shoot well enough to get accurate readings/tell the difference. That's one of the reasons its frustrating for a lot of folks.
That is true. I went and shot for a couple hours today and my form was the problem with my 125 grain field points. Every arrow flew like a dart but when I shot both my 190 grain interceptors and tree sharks my arrows tailed right every time so I have a little more tweaking to do.
Orion I said "bare shaft"