Why on Earth can't I sharpen a two blade broadhead? I'm a wizard with a three blade head. Ma3, snuffer, woodsman, doesn't matter I can have them shaving in just a few minutes.
With two blade heads I've just about tried it all. Lansky, KME, accusharp. I seem to have the best results with the accusharp, but even then I'm hit and miss. I'm going to give it another week, then I'm throwing in the towel! I'll just shoot three blades at everything! Anybody else suffer this malady?
That is why I use 3 blade heads myself.
Right there with ya brother.
you are probably using to much pressure on your stone or sharpener. Light strokes work best
Call KME here will talk you through it. Too much pressure and jumping to a finer grit too soon are the usual suspects. You must get the planes to intersect. If you go to finer grit before that you will get a shiny dull blade.
Most all sharpening issues arise from not enough time spent at lower grits to reach full apex, and inconsistant angle. Since you are using sharpening systems, you can rule out angle changes. You need a good strong light directly overhead, and at least 10x magnification. Try coloring the edge of the blade with a sharpie, when you think you're done with a grit, check it under magnification, you will see the sharpie where you did not reach apex. Recolor the edge every time you switch grits.
Once you get to apex you likely built up a burr, or wire edge. This needs to be removed once you get to the final grits. Stropping on a loaded balsa strop works, or plain fiber board (think ceral box) or plain leather. Strop only in edge trailing strokes and stop the stroke, then lift the blade straight up, avoid turning your wrist to try and flick/roll the blade off the end of the strop like a bugs bunny cartoon barber episode.
Pyramid steps work very well for ultra keen edges, I use pyramid steps when sharpening my straight razors (30 passes one side, 30 passes other side, then whatever increment step down like 5 passes less until you get to 10 or 5 and do one step increments.) In general you decrease pressure incrementally with each step up in grit. Your final passes should be uder the weight of the blade only.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
Yep never have been able to accomplish this either.
I agree with above. Before going to finer grits, you have to have a burred edge or you'll never get it sharp in a finer grit. I persoanlly just use a file as it is quiick and easy for me. But the KME broadhead sharpener will get it scarry sharp. Ron can explain it best.
Accusharp or equivalent and a strop, works easy!
Wheel sharpener and a ceramic stick afterwards. Works like a champ. Broadhead steel makes a difference, but I've had good luck with Magnus, Eclipse, Simmons, and Ace.
Fwiw, there is only one requirement and two options in sharpening.
All sharpening takes an investment, you choose either time or money.
The time investment is learning to sharpen effectively and repeatably freehand. No expensive systems to buy, no special stones or rods for each system. Just some good quality SiC sandpaper in appropriate grits and a very flat surface like glass or granite tile.
The money investment is in guided systems. These have a much quicker learning curve and produce excellent results very fast.
So, each person chooses what's for them, but they all must make this choice.
On a side note, I never develop a burr when sharpening razors or very fine edges.
Cheers!
I've never met a 2 blade broadhead I couldn't get scary sharp with my Lansky. I do however use the extra coarse stone for a while depending on how much material needs to be removed. Once the bevel is established, I count down the strokes per side starting at 20 with each stone and gradually and softly polish the blade. After that I use a leather strop and I'm done.
QuoteOriginally posted by TxAg:
Wheel sharpener and a ceramic stick afterwards. Works like a champ. Broadhead steel makes a difference, but I've had good luck with Magnus, Eclipse, Simmons, and Ace.
x 2, assuming you are talking about the RADA wheelie sharpener, or something similiar.
Less time sharpening, more time hunting.
Any method of sharpening that I can't easily and quickly use in the field I avoid like the plague.
QuoteOriginally posted by TxAg:
Wheel sharpener and a ceramic stick afterwards. Works like a champ. Broadhead steel makes a difference, but I've had good luck with Magnus, Eclipse, Simmons, and Ace.
X2
The ceramic rod can be found for under $7 I use it a lot to touch up an edge
Have a look at the link below
You will have to look long to beat this setup for the price, there's nothing you can't sharpen within reason on this machine.
My wife hates it since it gets more attention than her :)
http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Grinder-Sharpener/T10097
The leather wheel is good but takes too long to remove the burr of some steel so I use the ceramic rod for that as well.
Good luck
After I get the bevels set I like to use ceramic sticks to hone the last part. It takes a little longer but it really works good. I think most people are pushing on the blade too hard when sharpening. When I am finishing a blade I am barely touching the blade. Another problems is not switching sides between strokes. Gary
I'm just the opposite, 3 blades give me fits (though I'm improving) but I can knock out a 2 blade with the KME in no time. The light bulb came on for me when I spent enough time with the course stone setting the bevel. Set the bevel on both sides, raise a burr the entire length of the edge on one, then very lightly take the burr off. Once I figured that out, it was easy to get 2 blades sharp.
Brad, if you ever get down I-64 in Shelby County pull off the road and I'll see if I can give you some help on one.
Not wishing bad luck on you, but it feels good to know that I am not the only one with such challenges!. I double the advice on not using too much pressure as a light touch seems to help me a lot.
I taught myself how to sharpen a 2 blade withn a file many years back when we didn't have all these systems. I just use a good file and a lot of experience. I can have a broadhead shaving sharp in a couple minutes with just a file. It will come to you with experience.
I'm with slivrslingr, I can't sharpen 3 blades worth a hoot, but I have no trouble with 2 blades. Go figure :banghead:
paper wheels!!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!!!!!!!!!!!
If you have the KME, Ron will spend some time with you it is amazing what he can do over the phone...
I have the KME Knife Sharpener, and recently got the standard stones works great.
my philosphy is this; there are only so many variables within my control when it comes time to release a broadhead at an animal. One of these is the sharpness of my broadhead. I was very challenged at sharpening until I got the KME and called Ron about 3 years ago. Since then I have invested some $$ in an Extra Course large DMT diamond steel, another medium grit DMT diamond, and a translucent stone. The $$ spent on the diamond stones will cut your bevel grinding time way way down, the translucent stone will hone the heck out of the edge. I never move off the coarsest Diamond until it's shaving (see setting the bevel) everything else (as Ron likes to say) is just polishing. I love the mirrored finish I get on my bevels (not neceserry but doesn't hurt).
Get some Ace 2blades and a chainsaw depth gauge file and in just 3or4 strokes just to remove the factory burr they are scary and will make a deer Bleed! Super easy!
QuoteOriginally posted by Justin Falon:
paper wheels!!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!
paper wheels!!!!!!!!!!!
Paper wheels!!!
Just on more vote for an excellent sharpening method!
Although I use lapping films on a granite backing, and also my own personally harvested/selected water stones.
-Cheers!
Lots of good advice above, and thanks to all who mentioned my name and still managed to refrain from cussin'.
As for sharpening, the single most critical bit of information we need to understand is:
Sharpening any type of cutting edge requires more knowledge than skill. :readit:
We don't need a collage degree but there are just a couple things we need to understand before getting started. Here are a couple of brief, basic guidelines/tips:
1) The coarsest stone (or possibly file) you have is your best friend.
2) Don't leave the coarsest grit till the blade shaves.
3) If you go more than 5 minutes without producing a sharp edge, the stone you're using isn't coarse enough. (or you might be pushing to hard).
4) Trust the stones to cut the steel. They will and they don't need any help from us in the way of muscle exertion (added pressure). In other words, pushing harder will not help. In fact, using excessive pressure will prevent the blade from ever getting sharp. :nono: Remember: "Ounces, not pounds".
After doing it about a zillion times, I'm confident that I can teach anyone basic sharpening on the phone in about 10 minutes. I've offered this invitation many times and it still stands. If anyone needs help sharpening just call me. I don't care if you have one of my sharpeners or a different brand. Yes, I make and sell sharpeners but helping people achieve their first shaving sharp edge is the fun part for me!
Ron
800 561-4339
QuoteOriginally posted by Sharpster:
Lots of good advice above, and thanks to all who mentioned my name and still managed to refrain from cussin'.
As for sharpening, the single most critical bit of information we need to understand is:
Sharpening any type of cutting edge requires more knowledge than skill. :readit:
We don't need a collage degree but there are just a couple things we need to understand before getting started. Here are a couple of brief, basic guidelines/tips:
1) The coarsest stone (or possibly file) you have is your best friend.
2) Don't leave the coarsest grit till the blade shaves.
3) If you go more than 5 minutes without producing a sharp edge, the stone you're using isn't coarse enough. (or you might be pushing to hard).
4) Trust the stones to cut the steel. They will and they don't need any help from us in the way of muscle exertion (added pressure). In other words, pushing harder will not help. In fact, using excessive pressure will prevent the blade from ever getting sharp. :nono: Remember: "Ounces, not pounds".
After doing it about a zillion times, I'm confident that I can teach anyone basic sharpening on the phone in about 10 minutes. I've offered this invitation many times and it still stands. If anyone needs help sharpening just call me. I don't care if you have one of my sharpeners or a different brand. Yes, I make and sell sharpeners but helping people achieve their first shaving sharp edge is the fun part for me!
Ron
800 561-4339
I can attest to Ron's ability to talk you through it on his KME. He got me straighted out about six years ago over the phone.
I have more problems with a rounded two blade than a straight. I think a straight two blade is pretty simple stuff.
Abowyers practically sharpen themselves.
Well fellas I appreciate all the comments. I've been working at it hard the last couple of days and I think I cracked the code. I'm about 90% sure I need a coarser stone to start. When I used a cheaper stone I forgot I had that is fairly coarse things came right together with an ace head. Going to grab a quality coarse stone and see if my problems don't go away.
I did everything right watching Ron's on line videos except ONE!
I didn't get my edge shaving sharp with the coarsest stone.
:knothead:
I don't know how many times poor Ron went over and over that with me on the phone... but it finally sunk in.
Every year, I need a refresher, but it all boils down to the two biggies in his list:
1) Don't put too much pressure... exertion is your enemy.
2) Don't quit the coarse till you got it sharp... get the wire edge, flip and repeat the steps...
Once it's sharp, start all over with the next stone...
Amazing---of course, some of the harder steel heads take a LOT longer and a better/best stone to change the bevel.
Once that is done... and that li'l black line is GONE, you can start seeing the finish line!
QuoteOriginally posted by Biathlonman:
Why on Earth can't I sharpen a two blade broadhead? I'm a wizard with a three blade head. Ma3, snuffer, woodsman, doesn't matter I can have them shaving in just a few minutes.
With two blade heads I've just about tried it all. Lansky, KME, accusharp. I seem to have the best results with the accusharp, but even then I'm hit and miss. I'm going to give it another week, then I'm throwing in the towel! I'll just shoot three blades at everything! Anybody else suffer this malady?
I find 3 blade heads to be MUCH more difficult than 2 blade heads.
I refuse to use a head I can't sharpen with just a file and leather strop. My reasoning is that a file is easy to tote in the field.
I have learned over time that most QUALITY broadheads come all ready to be touched up. They may have a burr and appear dull, but gently strop that burr edge and they get scary quick.Now KEEP THEM SHARP. Touch them up often. If they get dull, things get tougher.
Also, two blade straight edged heads are waaaaay easier to sharpen than those with a concave or convex edge.
all good advice here.
Very good advice here. If you are still having trouble I would take up Ron at KME on his generous offer for sharpening lessons. Ron is The Man on all things sharp!
i was like you then i CALLED RON @ KME. you will be glad you did
I have a nice little sharpener that works just like an Accusharp but was made for sharpening broadheads...the company name on the handle is Diamond "D" Knives and I bought it back the in the early nineties...it has a line near the sharpeners that shows the angle to draw it over the blades and that seems to be the key to getting a nice edge...if you ever find one of those in a yard sale pick it up as I do not think they are made any longer
DDave
I own or have owned every sharpening system and tool out there. I now shoot 2 blade grizzlies and 3 blade Woodsmans and all are hair shaving sharp. I have the smooth legs to prove it! An often overlooked step in checking for steel removal is covering the blade edge with a black sharpie. It helps to see what you are actually removing and how much more work needs to be done before changing stones. I spoke at length to Ron last year and he's a pleasure to deal with. Best customer service call I ever made.
I can sharpen two blades with a butcher's steel, but try a RADA knife sharpener. They are cheap, easy to use, and work great.